ohfourzee

iTrader: (12)

I put a 10w3v3 sub and a JL 2501v2 amp in the Z yesterday. I have a stinger cap and wired it inline with the amp. I grounded the cap and whatnot. When hooked up the cap, it blew the inline fuse. When I didnt hook up the cap, the fuse was fine. Im sure this is happening cause it isnt charged.
Although, I am not sure on how to charge it. I thought all I needed to do was to hook everything up, and let the cap get charged from the battery and not start up the car and use it just yet. I guess I was wrong.

Peak350

iTrader: (6)

I just connect it as is, what size is the cap and what size is the fuse?

I have a 250 amp fuse and a 1.5 farad cap so thats probably why I don't blow mine.

Might just try putting in a higher rated fuse for when you connect the system, then replace it with the smaller fuse.

token5gtd

i had a cap one time that came with a resistor to put inline between the positive cable and the cap to let it slow charge. when it got up to voltage on the digital readout you removed the resistor and wired it straight.

ohfourzee

iTrader: (12)

It doesnt have a digital display. Its a stinger 1 farad cap. It might be a little overkill, but I got a good deal on it. I have a 50 amp fuse. Should I kick up the fuse, and try it again?

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

no, you should use a resistor and slow charge it like stinger's instructions say to do.

ohfourzee

iTrader: (12)

It didnt come with a resistor, nor did it say to slow charge it using one. I wouldnt be asking this question if thats what the instuctions read.

Peak350

iTrader: (6)

I don't slow charge mine or slow discharge mine (even though it says to). If you use a larger fuse to get it hooked up, take the fuse out once the cap charges and quickly switch back to the 50 amp fuse. You could also use a resistor (like a 10 ohm resistor) to bridge the fuse block (connect it in place of the fuse) and it would slow charge the capacitor.

Either way should be safe, but using the resistor is a lot less prone to throwing sparks (my cables always spark when I reconnect them).

ECLIPSEGST25

iTrader: (6)

what size amp are you running for the subs? You should only run 1 farad for every 1000 watts RMS. a 1.5 might be a bit too much. I agree that using the resister to slow charge is a lot better for the cap. the highest fuse I would go is a 60amp. If you go higher the fuse won't pop if thier is something wrong and you could really mess something up. Hope this helps.

adamtaylorpcb

iTrader: (7)

i was only running a 800w rms system on a 2 farad


now my front stage alone will be ~800w rms

Xlr82x

if you want a quick charge then just use you power wire and touch it while it grounded. It will turn on and just wire everything up. Not the preferred method but did work for me in the TA.

beau87

something is not correct..... caps don't need to be slow charged once they are in the circuit. The resistor is probably added so to the initial current draw doesn't exceed the capacity of the in-line fuse. Is the polarity correct? A cap cycles up in "5 tao" think milliseconds and constantly charges and discharges for power supplies. Maybe the dialect is damaged and that is why you got such a good deal??

Peak350

iTrader: (6)

I have a 60 amp fuse going from my cap to each amp. I have the 250 amp at the battery just as short prevention. I have 850w to my sub, and ~300w high.

I need the cap mostly for the sub though.