U haul hitch for the Z?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Originally Posted by first350
I installed a custom made hitch - when we did the install, Drivesolo welded the seams on the Aluminum Bumper brackets...so far, it's held up. (My tongue weight is 50 lbs when the trailer is fully loaded)
Originally Posted by dnguyent
Guys,
I installed the Curt hitch on my 2004 Z over the weekend. I purchased it through Summit Racing, and they sent me the correct unit.
The intent was to haul my road or mountain bikes, not to trailer my set of track wheels and tools. I also bought a nice Yakima hitch mount bike rack. After doing a complete and thorough install (~4 hours), I did a test drive with my 16lb road bike. I noticed that there was still a whole lot of flex in the aluminum bumper. The Yakima rack weighs 32 lbs, so I was carrying just under 50lbs and the hitch was bouncing all over the place. I parked the car, and pulled down on the hitch, and it flexed a lot. I don't think this design is good at all. The hitch may be rated for class A, but the bumper will surely fatigue without doing some torsional strengthening. If my hitch can't carry bike rack and a 16lb bike, I don't see how you guys are going to haul 400+ lbs of tires, tool, and trailer. That bumper will eventually fatigue and tear off!
I installed the Curt hitch on my 2004 Z over the weekend. I purchased it through Summit Racing, and they sent me the correct unit.
The intent was to haul my road or mountain bikes, not to trailer my set of track wheels and tools. I also bought a nice Yakima hitch mount bike rack. After doing a complete and thorough install (~4 hours), I did a test drive with my 16lb road bike. I noticed that there was still a whole lot of flex in the aluminum bumper. The Yakima rack weighs 32 lbs, so I was carrying just under 50lbs and the hitch was bouncing all over the place. I parked the car, and pulled down on the hitch, and it flexed a lot. I don't think this design is good at all. The hitch may be rated for class A, but the bumper will surely fatigue without doing some torsional strengthening. If my hitch can't carry bike rack and a 16lb bike, I don't see how you guys are going to haul 400+ lbs of tires, tool, and trailer. That bumper will eventually fatigue and tear off!
The reason "dnguyent" was feeling the unstable bumper beam was because from the get go he had 50lbs of load on the tongue with no wheels in the "trailer" to pass load... He introduced a MOMENT into the system (system being bumper beam and brackets)
Not a good idea to use with bike hitch mounts - better to buy the trunk mounting -type of bike rack with the nylon straps that attach to the corners of the hatch - LIKE THE ONE PICTURED IN THE ATTACHED PIC BELOW. mind you i couldnt find a pic of a Z - audi will have to do..
- J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; May 28, 2008 at 11:20 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
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From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Here is one picture of a hoppy converter used on our cars. like i mentioned before the brain (inner workings) of the POWERED hoppy converter is all the same. This one in particular has no wired end...the 4wire connection to the trailer is molded right into the brain.
To me this is not exactly ideal because that means i have to find a mount for this big bulky thing really down low to the bumper.
Would rather have an adapter 4-wire flat added to it or one that has some length of wire already on the unit so i can connect the trailer.
- Jason
To me this is not exactly ideal because that means i have to find a mount for this big bulky thing really down low to the bumper.
Would rather have an adapter 4-wire flat added to it or one that has some length of wire already on the unit so i can connect the trailer.
- Jason
Check NAPA. The shop I used got one from there that has an separate pigtail and they mounted the box on the sheetmetal behind the bumper cover. The car side connection also has a cover for when it is not used.
Just a FYI, I would hook it up and have it mounted in the trunk near the spare tire area. And when you need it, you pull the cable out and connect it and let it hang from the hatch. So then you don't have this ugly cable hanging down below, and it isn't exposed to the elements. I did this on my G35 when I pulled my Jetski with it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
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From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Originally Posted by SOLO-350Z
Just a FYI, I would hook it up and have it mounted in the trunk near the spare tire area. And when you need it, you pull the cable out and connect it and let it hang from the hatch. So then you don't have this ugly cable hanging down below, and it isn't exposed to the elements. I did this on my G35 when I pulled my Jetski with it.
- j
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
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From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
UPDATE:
TRAILER WIRING HARNESS:
ANY HOPPY BRAND - (AUTOZONE, ETC) WILL WORK - SO LONG AS IT IS FOR A CAR THAT HAS A SEPARATE** BLINKER AND BRAKE LIGHT LIKE THE Z DOES. GET IT?? THE DIFFERENCE IN HOPPY BRANDS IS ONLY DUE TO THE CONFIGURATION OF THE END (END WHERE TRAILER WIRES CONNECT - I BOUGHT A SEPARATE END AND ATTACHED ONE WITH TESTING LEDS ON IT).
I used a wiring light tester and verified all my colored wires did the exact function i was looking for.
I labeled in the attached pics the wiring colors for my 04 Touring Z but i dont know if the colored wires are the same for all Z's so i recommend buying a simple wire tester and double checking.
I dont have any pictures but i hot soldered all my connections and then used the ghetto electrical tape.
ALSO: FORGOT to mention, for the (WHITE) ground wire i just sanded a small area on the back trunk "firewall" if you know what i mean, and then used a short, small self tapping sheet metal screw. I positioned it low so i could see it by crawling under the car just to double check it every once in a while. just my 2 cents.
- J
TRAILER WIRING HARNESS:
ANY HOPPY BRAND - (AUTOZONE, ETC) WILL WORK - SO LONG AS IT IS FOR A CAR THAT HAS A SEPARATE** BLINKER AND BRAKE LIGHT LIKE THE Z DOES. GET IT?? THE DIFFERENCE IN HOPPY BRANDS IS ONLY DUE TO THE CONFIGURATION OF THE END (END WHERE TRAILER WIRES CONNECT - I BOUGHT A SEPARATE END AND ATTACHED ONE WITH TESTING LEDS ON IT).
I used a wiring light tester and verified all my colored wires did the exact function i was looking for.
I labeled in the attached pics the wiring colors for my 04 Touring Z but i dont know if the colored wires are the same for all Z's so i recommend buying a simple wire tester and double checking.
I dont have any pictures but i hot soldered all my connections and then used the ghetto electrical tape.
ALSO: FORGOT to mention, for the (WHITE) ground wire i just sanded a small area on the back trunk "firewall" if you know what i mean, and then used a short, small self tapping sheet metal screw. I positioned it low so i could see it by crawling under the car just to double check it every once in a while. just my 2 cents.
- J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Jun 6, 2008 at 05:24 AM.
Just a FYI. Make sure you have a self-powered unit for these cars, not one that pulls its power from the tails. You need a self-powered unit that runs a power line from the battery back. The ECU on my G35 was freaking out when the blinker would run and cause the engine to lose power everytime the blinker blinked. It was crazy. We resolved it with a self-powered unit from U-Haul.
Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
UPDATE:
TRAILER WIRING HARNESS:
ANY HOPPY BRAND - (AUTOZONE, ETC) WILL WORK - SO LONG AS IT IS FOR A CAR THAT HAS A SEPARATE** BLINKER AND BRAKE LIGHT LIKE THE Z DOES. GET IT?? THE DIFFERENCE IN HOPPY BRANDS IS ONLY DUE TO THE CONFIGURATION OF THE END (END WHERE TRAILER WIRES CONNECT - I BOUGHT A SEPARATE END AND ATTACHED ONE WITH TESTING LEDS ON IT).
I used a wiring light tester and verified all my colored wires did the exact function i was looking for.
I labeled in the attached pics the wiring colors for my 04 Touring Z but i dont know if the colored wires are the same for all Z's so i recommend buying a simple wire tester and double checking.
I dont have any pictures but i hot soldered all my connections and then used the ghetto electrical tape.
- J
TRAILER WIRING HARNESS:
ANY HOPPY BRAND - (AUTOZONE, ETC) WILL WORK - SO LONG AS IT IS FOR A CAR THAT HAS A SEPARATE** BLINKER AND BRAKE LIGHT LIKE THE Z DOES. GET IT?? THE DIFFERENCE IN HOPPY BRANDS IS ONLY DUE TO THE CONFIGURATION OF THE END (END WHERE TRAILER WIRES CONNECT - I BOUGHT A SEPARATE END AND ATTACHED ONE WITH TESTING LEDS ON IT).
I used a wiring light tester and verified all my colored wires did the exact function i was looking for.
I labeled in the attached pics the wiring colors for my 04 Touring Z but i dont know if the colored wires are the same for all Z's so i recommend buying a simple wire tester and double checking.
I dont have any pictures but i hot soldered all my connections and then used the ghetto electrical tape.
- J
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Originally Posted by SOLO-350Z
Just a FYI. Make sure you have a self-powered unit for these cars, not one that pulls its power from the tails. You need a self-powered unit that runs a power line from the battery back. The ECU on my G35 was freaking out when the blinker would run and cause the engine to lose power everytime the blinker blinked. It was crazy. We resolved it with a self-powered unit from U-Haul.
Because my HOPPY brand unit works great. SO did a few others that ive talked to that have used Hoppy brand units.
I talked with Hoppy and they assured me it would work fine. their units are protected/wired so not to draw a ton of voltage.
so far that ive used mine its worked great.
- J
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Originally Posted by Axelerate
Mine pulls power from the back lights, you just have to swap out to LED lights on the trailer.
They pull less power and work great.
They pull less power and work great.
What brand is yours???
- J
Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
WHAT BRAND UNIT did you use at first???
Because my HOPPY brand unit works great. SO did a few others that ive talked to that have used Hoppy brand units.
I talked with Hoppy and they assured me it would work fine. their units are protected/wired so not to draw a ton of voltage.
so far that ive used mine its worked great.
- J
Because my HOPPY brand unit works great. SO did a few others that ive talked to that have used Hoppy brand units.
I talked with Hoppy and they assured me it would work fine. their units are protected/wired so not to draw a ton of voltage.
so far that ive used mine its worked great.
- J
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 32
From: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Originally Posted by Axelerate
I have no idea, it came with my Roark hitch as well.
well, at least we know the HOPPY brand works, i tried it again and no issues so far. everything works great.
UPDATE OF PICS:
- J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Jun 12, 2008 at 06:11 AM.
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