Nissan FINALLY has a 350Z brake duct!
11-16-2010, 08:39 AM
#86
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deal you say! MAYBE 
I like how you internetly roll'd your eyes.
That's ok...
I'm the idiot though cause I didn't go to school nor do I hold any degrees in anything.
someone made a brake duct....hooray! The same thing with everything needed to assemble could of been put together for the same price.
instead of high price carbon fiber I'm sure aluminum covered carbon fiber weighing a few ounces more will get the job done. FACT
function over pretty carbon fiber...
most of us who buy this air duct aren't breaking 1700F temps on our rotors EVER...
if the air duct are coated correctly I'm more than sure that an aluminum air duct covered in carbon fiber or even fiber glass would do the trick for a weekend warrior...
well who I am anyways
I like how you internetly roll'd your eyes.
That's ok...
I'm the idiot though cause I didn't go to school nor do I hold any degrees in anything.
someone made a brake duct....hooray! The same thing with everything needed to assemble could of been put together for the same price.
instead of high price carbon fiber I'm sure aluminum covered carbon fiber weighing a few ounces more will get the job done. FACT
function over pretty carbon fiber...
most of us who buy this air duct aren't breaking 1700F temps on our rotors EVER...
if the air duct are coated correctly I'm more than sure that an aluminum air duct covered in carbon fiber or even fiber glass would do the trick for a weekend warrior...
well who I am anyways
You're someone who doesn't need brake ducts for one. It must be exhausting being so critical all the time. You've now posted multiple times in this thread that you think it's overpriced and can be done for less. Go ahead, prove everyone wrong and just do it already! Maybe it could have been done with different materials....or maybe it couldn't..the only fact of the matter is that you have no idea, you're merely guessing. Maybe NISMO had a reason for doing it in carbon? Either way, at least ADD something to the community instead of merely bitching and moaning.
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 12-10-2010 at 11:07 AM.
11-16-2010, 09:08 AM
#87
Hardest Setting
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Location: MexiCali dodging potholes
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add to the community
I have done countless acts of "adding to the community" for my local Z guys. When things don't add up or can be improved upon I'll continue to b!tch and moan!
I apologize, yet from here on out you can ignore me!
01-09-2011, 03:19 PM
#90
I finally got around to installing the ducts. Overall it was fairly simple. I tried to remove the hub/wheel bearing assembly so I could remove the dust shield, but I could not get it off for some reason. I removed all the bolts and the ABS sensor and still nothing. I beat on the sides of it with a hammer to try and loosen it, but it would not come off. I am open to any suggestions to get that thing off because I am sure I will be replacing the wheel bearing some time this season. I decided to just cut the part of the shield out where the duct was going. I also had to shave off just a tiny bit of the aluminum strap that holds the duct because it was hitting the rotor. It was not much at all and just took a minute with the dremel. You can see in the pics. I have not installed the ducting yet. I will be sometime this week.
Last edited by Fixxxercask; 01-09-2011 at 03:21 PM.
01-11-2011, 07:48 AM
#92
Thanks for the pics, looks like a really nice piece.
As for the hub/sheild;
Check out Step 6 here.
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...nt-how-to.html
Did you remove the 4x17mm bolts?
As for the hub/sheild;
Check out Step 6 here.
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...nt-how-to.html
Did you remove the 4x17mm bolts?
01-11-2011, 09:06 AM
#93
Guys,
I would recommend you don't remove the rock shield. The shield will help focus the air through the veins in the rotor. Ideally, you would seal everything around the center of the rotor so that the only exit for the air is THROUGH the center of the rotor and to not bleed out through the holes. There's a lot of air that gets forced into the center of the rotor. Don't give it a chance to escape by creating bigger opening prior to entry into the rotor veins.
I would recommend you don't remove the rock shield. The shield will help focus the air through the veins in the rotor. Ideally, you would seal everything around the center of the rotor so that the only exit for the air is THROUGH the center of the rotor and to not bleed out through the holes. There's a lot of air that gets forced into the center of the rotor. Don't give it a chance to escape by creating bigger opening prior to entry into the rotor veins.
01-11-2011, 12:00 PM
#94
Thanks for the pics, looks like a really nice piece.
As for the hub/sheild;
Check out Step 6 here.
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...nt-how-to.html
Did you remove the 4x17mm bolts?
As for the hub/sheild;
Check out Step 6 here.
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...nt-how-to.html
Did you remove the 4x17mm bolts?
Yep. I removed those bolts and the ABS sensor. Those are the bolts that hold the wheel bearing/hub assumbly in place. It may be just seized on because it's still the original one and it's got a lot of road racing miles on it. I'm going to probably have to beat the hell out of it to get it off.
I'm glad I didn't remove the shield then based on what was said above.
The aluminum arm may have needed grind down if one of the bolts at the bottom didn't break. There are two bolts that hold it in place at the bottom and one of mine snapped while trying to remove it, so there is only the one. I will let you know when I do the other side because I got both of the bolts off on that one.
01-11-2011, 12:42 PM
#95
Fixxxercask,
If you stripped one of the bolt holes on the bottom, you can drill it out a bit more and put a helicoil in there. You can have it bonded in place and should work fine after that. Most high quality hardware stores will sell helicoil in the right thread pitch for that bolt.
If you stripped one of the bolt holes on the bottom, you can drill it out a bit more and put a helicoil in there. You can have it bonded in place and should work fine after that. Most high quality hardware stores will sell helicoil in the right thread pitch for that bolt.
01-11-2011, 03:40 PM
#96
Guys,
I would recommend you don't remove the rock shield. The shield will help focus the air through the veins in the rotor. Ideally, you would seal everything around the center of the rotor so that the only exit for the air is THROUGH the center of the rotor and to not bleed out through the holes. There's a lot of air that gets forced into the center of the rotor. Don't give it a chance to escape by creating bigger opening prior to entry into the rotor veins.
I would recommend you don't remove the rock shield. The shield will help focus the air through the veins in the rotor. Ideally, you would seal everything around the center of the rotor so that the only exit for the air is THROUGH the center of the rotor and to not bleed out through the holes. There's a lot of air that gets forced into the center of the rotor. Don't give it a chance to escape by creating bigger opening prior to entry into the rotor veins.
01-11-2011, 09:54 PM
#98
Fixxxercask,
If you stripped one of the bolt holes on the bottom, you can drill it out a bit more and put a helicoil in there. You can have it bonded in place and should work fine after that. Most high quality hardware stores will sell helicoil in the right thread pitch for that bolt.
If you stripped one of the bolt holes on the bottom, you can drill it out a bit more and put a helicoil in there. You can have it bonded in place and should work fine after that. Most high quality hardware stores will sell helicoil in the right thread pitch for that bolt.
01-12-2011, 01:21 AM
#99
I got the other side in tonight with no rubbing issues. I need to do the ducting now. After giving everything a lookover I have no idea where the ducting is going to fit. I already have it, I just need to figure out where it is going to go. I know it has been done many times before on the Z, but it looks like it's going to be a tight fit. Any suggestions?
