Imagine a radiator without openings allowing air to pass through it. What if that radiator were a solid sheet of aluminum that relied on air to hit it and bounce off to cool? How effective would that be? Not very.

A duct pointed directly at the face of a rotor would be similarly ineffective.

From the looks of it, there is most likely less than a 1" surface area allowing air to flow to the center of the rotor on that part.

If the duct provides any cooling to one side of the rotor, you will success in shortening the lifespan of your brake pads at best.

So the steel backing plate conforms to neither rule nor engineering design. This falls into the category of you get what you pay for.

 

Not sure I totally agree with that analysis but I agree with the fact that it is mildly compromised. If see it correctly, there seems to be a raised section of the shield near the center the rotor. I would assume this is to provide a area of low pressure for the interior to feed from, but I have to see it in person to be sure. But ultimately, I can honestly say it doesn't seem as effective as the newer version, hence the reason for a new version.

 

so you guys are saying it is best to concentrate a majority, if not all, of the airflow to the center of the rotor/hub area?

 

yup.

 

Its not the best design, but having raced solid front rotor Datsun 240Zs for years it does help. Yes you will get uneven pad wear, yes you will have uneven rotor wear and may even warp a rotor, but if that's all you can do its orders of magnitude better then no air at all - on a race track. Its the difference between finishing the race with brakes and having nothing for the last few laps.

Also, there will be some pumping from the inner rotor opening through the vanes. A lot of air car move through a 1" opening - look at the power some race engines make when limited by a 25mm restrictor. Directional vane rotors will help even more.

But, any of the preceding examples are 10 times better then this.

 

I finally got my ducts installed. Also installed my C-west front lip. I'm in the process of making a splitter for it too. Check out pics.

 

More...

 

Looks good!

 

Fixxxer, are those NACAs blocking the radiator?

 

A little bit yes. I did not know where else to mount them without cutting my bumper to pieces.

I am getting one of those radiator cooling plates that block the air from coming into the engine bay to help out.

 

Keep a close eye on the temps. I've never had mine even flinch past half way (stock gauge) on track, but others say there's does, and with that amount of obstruction you may see some elevated temps.

 

Fixxer, where I track my car, the summers gets into the 100F+, and I don't think I could get away with blocking that much of the radiator. You will introduce a lot of turbulence, and I think you may see a rise in engine temps. Could you just get rid of the naca ducts, and have the tubing face the frontal area? I don't necessarily think you need to "scoop" that much air for the brake ducts to be effective. Well, try it out, but keep an eye on your oil/water temps.

 

Thats a pretty decent kink in the hosing too

 

Well.. that's not how NACA ducts are supposed to positioned in relation to airflow. A simple box or funnel would be more effective. Here's the original research on NACA submerged ducts:

http://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/ca...2009011314.pdf

 

If you are going to put the inlet duct in the front bumper, the one you really want is this one:

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=3624

It routes the hose straight back, so you don't need to obstruct as much air flow to the radiator.

The NACA ducts are designed to take air from high pressure area where you have airflow going parallel to the plane.

 

I plan on keeping an eye on my water and oil temps closely because of the ducts. It never gets over 90-93 degress here in the summer on the absolute hottest days too. All last year my water temps never went over half on the stock gauge. I have actually installed a digital water and oil temp gauge this off season so I will know exactly what they are. If they get too hot, I might just remove the ducts and have the ducting run up to the grille. I have seen a lot of guys do that too. Thanks for the info guys!

 

Where is your oil cooler mounted?

 

Still workin on that one.

 

Not sure where that duct would fit. Its pretty big.

 

Fixxer, why not put the ducts on the lower engine cover like the other racers instead of blocking your radiator?