Nissan FINALLY has a 350Z brake duct!
01-12-2011, 02:52 PM
#104
You're going to need to drill some 2.5" holes in the fender liner to route the hoses. The NACA ducts will go into the front grill, in front of the radiator (zip tie them to the bumper mesh), then route the tubing back,then toward the outside, (you'll need to make holes here to), then throught the fender liner hole.
When securing the tubing, remember the tire is going to be higher (relative to the body of the car) than when the wheel is off. Make sure you put enough tubing in to allow you to turn the car lock to lock. On the track, this won't be an issue, but around the paddock it might. You don't want the tubing pulling off the CF Duct.
GOOD LUCK! Can't wait to see the final result!
When securing the tubing, remember the tire is going to be higher (relative to the body of the car) than when the wheel is off. Make sure you put enough tubing in to allow you to turn the car lock to lock. On the track, this won't be an issue, but around the paddock it might. You don't want the tubing pulling off the CF Duct.
GOOD LUCK! Can't wait to see the final result!
01-12-2011, 03:52 PM
#105
You're going to need to drill some 2.5" holes in the fender liner to route the hoses. The NACA ducts will go into the front grill, in front of the radiator (zip tie them to the bumper mesh), then route the tubing back,then toward the outside, (you'll need to make holes here to), then throught the fender liner hole.
When securing the tubing, remember the tire is going to be higher (relative to the body of the car) than when the wheel is off. Make sure you put enough tubing in to allow you to turn the car lock to lock. On the track, this won't be an issue, but around the paddock it might. You don't want the tubing pulling off the CF Duct.
GOOD LUCK! Can't wait to see the final result!
When securing the tubing, remember the tire is going to be higher (relative to the body of the car) than when the wheel is off. Make sure you put enough tubing in to allow you to turn the car lock to lock. On the track, this won't be an issue, but around the paddock it might. You don't want the tubing pulling off the CF Duct.
GOOD LUCK! Can't wait to see the final result!
01-12-2011, 03:59 PM
#106
The side deflector locations sounds like a clean place to have them.
(The only issue you'll find is that the airflow won't be as significant as coming straight in from the front of the bumper. BUT, if you're not doing endurance racing and driving at 9 tenths for long periods of time, that location is probably just fine.)
(The only issue you'll find is that the airflow won't be as significant as coming straight in from the front of the bumper. BUT, if you're not doing endurance racing and driving at 9 tenths for long periods of time, that location is probably just fine.)
01-12-2011, 04:30 PM
#107
The side deflector locations sounds like a clean place to have them.
(The only issue you'll find is that the airflow won't be as significant as coming straight in from the front of the bumper. BUT, if you're not doing endurance racing and driving at 9 tenths for long periods of time, that location is probably just fine.)
(The only issue you'll find is that the airflow won't be as significant as coming straight in from the front of the bumper. BUT, if you're not doing endurance racing and driving at 9 tenths for long periods of time, that location is probably just fine.)
01-13-2011, 03:31 AM
#108
You're going to need to drill some 2.5" holes in the fender liner to route the hoses. The NACA ducts will go into the front grill, in front of the radiator (zip tie them to the bumper mesh), then route the tubing back,then toward the outside, (you'll need to make holes here to), then throught the fender liner hole.
When securing the tubing, remember the tire is going to be higher (relative to the body of the car) than when the wheel is off. Make sure you put enough tubing in to allow you to turn the car lock to lock. On the track, this won't be an issue, but around the paddock it might. You don't want the tubing pulling off the CF Duct.
GOOD LUCK! Can't wait to see the final result!
When securing the tubing, remember the tire is going to be higher (relative to the body of the car) than when the wheel is off. Make sure you put enough tubing in to allow you to turn the car lock to lock. On the track, this won't be an issue, but around the paddock it might. You don't want the tubing pulling off the CF Duct.
GOOD LUCK! Can't wait to see the final result!
Last edited by Fixxxercask; 01-13-2011 at 03:34 AM.
01-18-2011, 02:42 PM
#114
Yes, it *should.* You may need to cut a pleat in the tubing and the wire reinforcement and have it overlap a bit, then put the hose clamp around it. Our car actually has 3" hosing on it from when we were running the car without the brake ducts (needed the extra air since we didn't have the carbon duct to route it to!), so we'll be doing that to get them to fit.
02-04-2011, 07:46 AM
#117
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titek ducting is very small, maybe only 1.5" big on the inside, and you would need to buy 2, unless your talking about the hr duct, but either way its going to be about $200 just for those titek pieces, your better off getting the ones actually made for it for about $30/pc off summit/pegasus or similar site.
Last edited by halfrice; 02-04-2011 at 07:48 AM.
02-04-2011, 03:31 PM
#118
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titek ducting is very small, maybe only 1.5" big on the inside, and you would need to buy 2, unless your talking about the hr duct, but either way its going to be about $200 just for those titek pieces, your better off getting the ones actually made for it for about $30/pc off summit/pegasus or similar site.
02-08-2011, 09:15 AM
#119
Don't know which location you're refering to, but you generally need someplace with lots of positive pressure, like the front bumper.
Under the car is generally a bad idea because that is a low pressure zone, so you're not going to get any air looking to escape the high pressure area into a NACA duct to the brake disc. Unless you create the flow with a strong fan.
And again, the trick to cooling your brakes is flow. Without flow, you're not providing a place for the air to escape to. That's why tubes which are directed at the face of the rotor or directly at a caliper at best succeed at wearing out one side of the brake pads faster than the other, and don't do a good job cooling the braking surfaces.
