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The input shaft bearing is most likely brass. Its "fragile" but has an ideal wear resistance. If you even bump it with the input shaft, it is trash.
Im almost certain the input shaft with it's wobbly run-out is normal. I noticed it 50k miles ago and then did another clutch ~30k miles after that and there was no change. It hasn't caused me any trouble at all. I assumed the shaft is on a spherical bearing.
It seems like other's have encountered this as well.
Good to know, yea I learned how soft the bronze pilot bearing/bushing is in my youngin days when I pounded it in with a socket and realized it folded over on itself... live and learn.
Last edited by Dblock55; Jan 25, 2016 at 09:42 AM.
Thinking about picking up a set of megan headers, was reading a thread about upgrading cams on the z and lots of ppl were recommending ditching the stock headers for an v aftermarket piece. Anyone do this with noticeable gains?
I wouldn't trust a brand like Megan at the hottest part of the exhaust. My experience with that brand showed me inaccurate material grade and poor welds. That translates to a short life in reliability. I wouldn't and haven't wasted my money on the cheaper end of the aftermarket since then.
If you upgrade the cams, a set of good headers and a good manifold are a given. The cams will only intake the increased airflow that is allowed.
Sweet. I'm sure the new lift has you loving life. I like the outlines for the wheel positions.
Oh yea... makes things that were super annoying like exhaust work, super simple. Anyone who has the money and space to buy one, id strongly recommend it.
Im having trouble bleeding the coolant system and ive just about everything I could think of... anyone have any ideas?
Few notes: Heater core removed, bleeder screw also removed.
Topped the radiator off, inserted my Lisle spill free funnel, put a little bit of fluid in there, let the car get up to temp and let the thermostat go through a few cycles... when the thermostat opens the funnel goes from almost empty to almost full! This is a huge funnel... the fluid doesnt re-enter the system until you turn the car off, at which point the funnel drains back to almost empty. The temperature gauge stay constant during this process. You can hear and feel in the car a water hammer effect in the coolant system. I put the radiator cap back on just to see what happens and the coolant temp started going up above normal so I shut it down... with the cap still on and the car off you can hear the system slurping and pushing the fluid/air around.... im at a loss on how to bleed the system properly. Dont want to overheat it! Anyone thoughts?
If you have a blanking cap on the rear pipe behind the engine you may try popping that off , you setup it a bit different than mine. I use my heater hose bleeder to help get the air out.
If you have a blanking cap on the rear pipe behind the engine you may try popping that off , you setup it a bit different than mine. I use my heater hose bleeder to help get the air out.
Is that block-off plate proper? I thought it needs to be a loop to allow circulation but, I don't know the coolant system on these cars.
Blockoff plate is ok, there is a schematic of the cooling circuit posted on a earlier page.
I will try removing one of the blanks I guess but I don't see why the air doesn't roam out when running it with radiator cap is open.?? Also tje mass exodus of fluid from the radiator into the funnel Is throwing me as well. It's not thermal expansion because when you turn the car off it all goes right back in...
I think i figured out whats going on but I dont know how to fix it... the water pump feed line is cold which means its not flowing anything... with the cap on the coolant is just getting dumped into the reservoir... the slurping noise when i turn the car off is the coolant being sucked back into the heads by the vacuum pressure (coolant was being pushed out and replaced with nothing). So either there is air being sucked in somewhere or the T-stat is stuck closed.
In that whole process you got rid of the heater line bleed port didnt you? If I remember my VQ's right, that was the highest point to bleed air out. You may have an engine that has no way to bleed air out of the block and is air locked.
Thermostat replacement shouldn't be too bad. can you try and use some sort of electric pump to push water through the block? if you rig it to your radiator inlet and return lines you both clear air out if its flow is enough and also prove or disprove a blockage.
In that whole process you got rid of the heater line bleed port didnt you? If I remember my VQ's right, that was the highest point to bleed air out. You may have an engine that has no way to bleed air out of the block and is air locked.
Thermostat replacement shouldn't be too bad. can you try and use some sort of electric pump to push water through the block? if you rig it to your radiator inlet and return lines you both clear air out if its flow is enough and also prove or disprove a blockage.
Yes the bleed valve is gone, but by removing that line I made the cap highest point in system. I also removed one of the plugs while filling it to get air out... the return circuit is full of coolant... the feed circuit is what isn't filled... I like your idea of pumping it through, gotta figure it out...
Did some digging and think I found the problem... the hole on the right is where fluid comes in from intake, oil cooler and heater core return. This is the hole that I blocked off with the blockoff plate. The hole on the left is the water pump feed... with no fluid coming in through the right hole, tje thermostat never opens be a use tjere is no circulation... at least that's the theory.
Blockoff plate is ok, there is a schematic of the cooling circuit posted on a earlier page.
I will try removing one of the blanks I guess but I don't see why the air doesn't roam out when running it with radiator cap is open.?? Also tje mass exodus of fluid from the radiator into the funnel Is throwing me as well. It's not thermal expansion because when you turn the car off it all goes right back in...
It could be thermal air expansion, if air is trapped behind the thermostat it can happen. Ran into a similar issue when i first started modding my cooling system. I found if you refer to the TSM, it says to fill the system slowly to allow the air to escape. Pouring a little at a time and very slowly seems to help get the system topped of. I don't use a spill free. Since you don't have the bleed port on "A" heater hose. I wonder if you still have a hose bunge on the rear pipe above the trans that you can uncap to purge air as you fill.
The good thing about a simple cooling system like yours is that a couple cycles of the thermostat should pushing the air out on its own through the resevoir. I had actually at one point thought about putting a air bleed valve on the heater pipe that you had blocked off so all the air from behind the thermostat can be manually purged alot easier. Might be an idea for you. I was thinking of one of those pull valves that they install on air compressors that are spring loaded so you can pull on it till you see coolant then release.
Did some digging and think I found the problem... the hole on the right is where fluid comes in from intake, oil cooler and heater core return. This is the hole that I blocked off with the blockoff plate. The hole on the left is the water pump feed... with no fluid coming in through the right hole, tje thermostat never opens be a use tjere is no circulation... at least that's the theory.
Too a degree I believe you are right. But more to the degree you have air trapped near that top right hole since it is capped, refer to my previous post that may help with the bleeder install.
I don't know if it's much help but, I thought it was worth mentioning. I was doing some final assembly on a Mosler MT900 a while back and the procedure for filling the coolant is quite involved. The radiator is front mounted with the engine in the rear.
In order to fill the coolant, you must use a system that draws a vacuum from the filler and then siphons the coolant into the system. This avoids air-locking the coolant.
@rustyschopshop.... yup that is exactly what a going on, as I fill tje system the coolant fills the block and starts coming into that cavity through the hole on the bottom left... problem is its coming up so it is trapping the air. The coolant flow once pump is running is down and to the left which doesn't help one bit. I confirmed this theory by removing the tstat and reinstalling just the housing... bled the system in 5 min!!! Took it for a drive, system behaved as expected no overheating...
@90nissan ... that may be what I end up doing... a vacuum fill procedure would be the only way to fill that cavity, or remove the blockoff plate I made an add a bleeder to it...
However I'm not 100% convinced the system will function properly with a tstat in place being how it's set up currently... with the stock system tje coolant circulated through the block and heads and back in through where the blockoff plate is... eventually as it got up to temp it'd open the tstat... with the blockoff plate there, there is no flow through that chamber... eve. With it fully bled I'd be relying on conduction through the fluid... until the tstat opens all the fluid is stagnant so you'd have localized got spots which would eventually warm the fluid around it up but I think peak Temps in those places woukd exceed design spec... the tstat woukd open LATE and cool e erything down as designed but as soon as it closes you have a stagnation situation again be a use there are no loop circuits. I'm going to investigate running without a tstat more... if all else fails I'll run a line from one of the plugged holes through the blockoff plate...
