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Old Feb 1, 2016 | 08:03 PM
  #221  
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Originally Posted by Dblock55
@rustyschopshop.... yup that is exactly what a going on, as I fill tje system the coolant fills the block and starts coming into that cavity through the hole on the bottom left... problem is its coming up so it is trapping the air. The coolant flow once pump is running is down and to the left which doesn't help one bit. I confirmed this theory by removing the tstat and reinstalling just the housing... bled the system in 5 min!!! Took it for a drive, system behaved as expected no overheating...

@90nissan ... that may be what I end up doing... a vacuum fill procedure would be the only way to fill that cavity, or remove the blockoff plate I made an add a bleeder to it...

However I'm not 100% convinced the system will function properly with a tstat in place being how it's set up currently... with the stock system tje coolant circulated through the block and heads and back in through where the blockoff plate is... eventually as it got up to temp it'd open the tstat... with the blockoff plate there, there is no flow through that chamber... eve. With it fully bled I'd be relying on conduction through the fluid... until the tstat opens all the fluid is stagnant so you'd have localized got spots which would eventually warm the fluid around it up but I think peak Temps in those places woukd exceed design spec... the tstat woukd open LATE and cool e erything down as designed but as soon as it closes you have a stagnation situation again be a use there are no loop circuits. I'm going to investigate running without a tstat more... if all else fails I'll run a line from one of the plugged holes through the blockoff plate...
From where i stand, it sounds like you would have the best luck by routing a line from the block off plate to another location to create a loop.
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Old Feb 2, 2016 | 08:06 AM
  #222  
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Although it has been a while, there has been at least 2 people in this forum that I had seen with similar setups to yours and they didn't have any issues one the system was bleed. If I remember correctly though they were very old threads and one was done on a G. Cooling should be fine, sure there is no flow through that one hole but it really doesn't go anywhere, only a couple inches of distance to where the block off plate is.

I am glad that you were able to get it bleed by pulling the Tstat finally and cooling again.
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Old Feb 5, 2016 | 03:02 AM
  #223  
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It sounds like you may be thinking along the same lines as this, but it may help spark some ideas. If you look at the bottom of the third page in the link: http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/vq35-vq37_coolant_systems_head_gaskets_head_bolts.pdf ...The third diagram from the left shows that the HR has a bypass on the driverside, flowing from the heads to the tstat housing. It is separate from the heater return line, and I'm sure you could come up with your own take on it to help with your situation. I would also look into setting up a proper header tank/swirl pot, to help keep air out of the system, and to help simplify the bleeding process in general.. Keep the updates coming!

Last edited by LowPhats; Feb 5, 2016 at 03:05 AM.
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Old Feb 6, 2016 | 06:29 PM
  #224  
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Originally Posted by LowPhats
It sounds like you may be thinking along the same lines as this, but it may help spark some ideas. If you look at the bottom of the third page in the link: http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wolfpdf/vq35-vq37_coolant_systems_head_gaskets_head_bolts.pdf ...The third diagram from the left shows that the HR has a bypass on the driverside, flowing from the heads to the tstat housing. It is separate from the heater return line, and I'm sure you could come up with your own take on it to help with your situation. I would also look into setting up a proper header tank/swirl pot, to help keep air out of the system, and to help simplify the bleeding process in general.. Keep the updates coming!
Glad mu half baked theory makes sense!!! Thanks for confirming it.
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Old Mar 8, 2016 | 10:27 AM
  #225  
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About to get rocking on the roll cage. Decided that I want to get rid of the stock steering assembly as well and replace it with a one piece straight steering shaft. I already have a QR hub ad stub to weld onto a shaft but cant seem to find a kit that doesnt come with a QR hub... the whole setup seems super easy and DIY minus the detail of making the column not enter the cabin in the even of a frontal collision. Does anyone have any insight on this?
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 04:30 AM
  #226  
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No one ehhh
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 01:57 PM
  #227  
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It sounds like all you need is a steel/alloy rod and a heim to hold it. Try including pics, charts, diagrams, etc to get people involved in providing feedback.
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 07:20 PM
  #228  
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Sorry I can't offer any assistance on this one, I had thought of doing an EPAS set up and looked up alot of ideas to go with it. But never stumbled on anything I remember. You may want to check on some of the pro drifters and see if they will be willing to give you some guidance. Seems to me there was a few drifters that had a plain column.
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 12:00 PM
  #229  
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Originally Posted by 90nissanS13
It sounds like all you need is a steel/alloy rod and a heim to hold it. Try including pics, charts, diagrams, etc to get people involved in providing feedback.
That is correct, the only thing I cant seem to find is the collapsible bit so that I dont get killed by the shaft in case of a front end collision. I found a full kit online but it comes with a qr hub which I already have.... i would just use the one that comes with it but its for 3 bolt steering wheels and my steering wheel is a 6 bolt... maybe ill just make a little adapter for my wheel and bite the bullet... if anyone has any information on where to get a hold of the collapsible bit please let me know... attached is a picture of what im talking about.
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 12:15 PM
  #230  
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aa...DxNRoCYZHw_wcB

This would be awesome if it wasnt only a foot long.
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 12:47 PM
  #231  
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here is one I found with a reputable store near me, you may concider calling them and see what they have for adapters for mounting.

http://www.smileysracing.com/shoppin...i=47952&c=1528
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 12:49 PM
  #232  
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Found you a 3 bolt to 6 bolt adapter.

http://www.smileysracing.com/shoppin...1063488&c=1528
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Old Mar 21, 2016 | 10:26 AM
  #233  
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^^^ thanks bud! All in the works now.
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Old Mar 21, 2016 | 05:47 PM
  #234  
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Originally Posted by Dblock55
^^^ thanks bud! All in the works now.
NP, was that the right adapter for you?
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Old Mar 22, 2016 | 05:42 AM
  #235  
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http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Sweet-...RksaAu878P8HAQ

Going with this, going to fab up adapter myself and have my buddy cut it for me... he owns a CNC lathe so he's got a ton of spare aluminum.
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Old Mar 22, 2016 | 09:03 AM
  #236  
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cool, glad it is all panning out for you. Can't wait to see install pics.
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Old Mar 22, 2016 | 11:43 AM
  #237  
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Did you get that welder running yet?
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Old Mar 22, 2016 | 06:15 PM
  #238  
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^^^ yup, been practicing laying down so clean beads... it's been a while since I've welded anything. Going to he a lot tougher in the car!!! BTW online metals is having 20% sale today only if anyone needs raw material.
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Old Mar 22, 2016 | 06:25 PM
  #239  
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Nice, wait until you have to follow a tube joint. lol

Let's see what you've got going on?
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Old Mar 23, 2016 | 06:32 AM
  #240  
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Originally Posted by 90nissanS13
Nice, wait until you have to follow a tube joint. lol

Let's see what you've got going on?
Dunno if I want to publicize the horror that are my welds
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