Night shipping just came !!!
The parts from JIM WOLF TECHNOLOGY have finally arrived

 

Just noticed the metal bracing on the side windows. Is that something you requested or are mine gonna come like that too? I didn't see anything about it on their site when I ordered.

 

sick!

 

DrHoon: It's a stiffening plate, I ordered separately but they mount them for you. You can found them in accessories ( https://www.plastics4performance.com...window-support )

Escobar: Thanks man I appreciate !

 

I'm guessing you race with the windows up, thus the plates and the slide window. I only use the side windows for storage, so I don't need either. But good to know, I didn't even see that option, thanks.

 

thanks for this pro tip that lexan hatch window is exactly what I need.
The CF hatch that came with my '03 is in beautiful condition but the plexi window was custom cut and riveted and there are two cracks at rivets. I was dreading getting it done before learning about these windows.

 

My opinion if you make a Pro Car this is the way to do it !!
Because it is cut by CNC and it has the shape and the black contour like OE glass, is not straight.
Cutting Lexan in the garage and putting rivets or screws WORKS but NOT FOR A PRO CAR.


Another Tip !!!
You don't Need rivets !!!! You can glue it with silicon and it's OK !!! BUT NOT AUTO GLASS SILICON !!!! Lexan is plastic and that type of silicon is going to damage it because of the chimic stuff it has in it AND is not going to allow it to expand on heat !

Plastics4performance sell a silicon that is used on boats you can look for something similar

https://www.plastics4performance.com...-adhesive-sika

 

Yup, my installer told me to get P4P adhesive that's compatible with lexan.According to P4P adhesive alone is good for up to 160mph, anything above that you'll want to install additional supports. Assuming you are using their thickest lexan options.

 

I bought the 4mm thickness. I was not sure which one to get so I chose in the middle ) not to be too flimsy but also not too thick to be heavy.

 

It will look nice getting rid of the cracked, riveted piece, and putting in one of these. It'll be a while before i order one... car body needs work/paint.

 

Hey Guys dose any one know from this picture which Gear Ratio is better ?

Thanks

 

There are others with more experience than me but I like the first one with higher acceleration in 3rd 4th and 5th. I would love to get my transmission done like that.

In my car, previous owner installed stock ratio in a Nismo GT 1.5-way diff. I don't understand that. I wish he would have saved me the trouble and put in at least 3.9 gears. instead of staying in 3rd most of the time I could stay in 4th longer. This is my best option with that goal in mind.

 

I considered getting my gearing changed when I installed the lsd, but for me the tradeoff of better acceleration is having to do more shifting on the track. Depends on the track layout of course, but the tracks I tend to go to I don't think higher gear ratios would give me an advantage, as I would have to do an extra upshift and downshift on most straights, the net result would probably be same or worse lap times with more work.

 

My 3 tracks are Sonoma (Infineon) and Thunderhill east/west. I don't care for West, only go if no others are available. East and Sonoma are technical with few straights. I get frustrated with the long 3rd gear and running 2nd high to compensate doesn't help as you know. I think 4.0 gears would help. I would like to stay in 4th for most of the lap. I stay in 3rd with occasional 4th for very short stretches.

 

well, there you go. None of the tracks I go to require 2nd gear. It's all 3rd-4th with 5th gear only for the main straights.

 

Finally the pistons arrived today. I'm very happy since they are a big piece of the puzzle.

 

So glad I found this thread. Wonder build.
I'm building a ProSpec drift car with my son.
Finally got it in the air. I may start a new thread.

 

Great progress so far.

I had hoped you had given up on the DE. With as much work as you're investing in the DE a HR would have already been there on bolt ons.
If you ever blow this one up you should seriously consider a HR or VHR.

I make electrical swap kits for them and in all honesty the work is less than building the DE and much more satisfyingly without including the reliability.

You should be able to make that ECM run a HR as well. Wont work with a VHR.

 

I did not give up on the DE because I don't see a BIG difference in the setup that I want
When an engine build is done it doesn't matter if it is a DE or HR in my opinion you have to change most of the internals.
Besides the pistons that are custom made everything was bought and in stock.
The only limitation that I see in the setup is the 8000 Rpm limit because of the crank.
I need a reliable engine to last one season before opening it up and the chassy as light as possible and of cours weight distribution and a good setup. This is the recipe with which I started with this project.
If I will swap the engine, but only after beating the turbo cars with an aspirated engine, I will definitely change to the VR30DDTT
In my opinion is the best option for any body who wants big horse power since it is a compact set up and very capable engine, after swapping with some reliable turbos

 

New parts just arrived ,so glad that came before Christmas