Is anyone else going to the Road Atlanta Track Days on July 31 - Aug 1? I'll be there Friday July 30 and racing in Class C on Saturday and Class B on Sunday. Should be a good one.

http://www.panozracingschool.com/TrackDays.asp

 

Road Atlanta is a fun track and I enjoyed racing for several years when the SCCA Runoffs were held there. This was before the track was reconfigured to take away the "dip" at the end of the long straightaway. You reached max speed and then exceeded it going down and up through the dip. You had to know your braking and turn-in points at the Nissan bridge turn- otherwise you could go sailing off the end!

Having said all that, I wish the Panoz school wouldn't charge so much for a weekend- $500 for two days is mighty steep!

 

wow 500 bucks is mighty steep.

but if its a good program and if you get alot of track time i guess its worth it.

i never drove RA before they put in turn 10a/b but i could imagine how scary it would be to go into turn 12 with that much speed.

 

Ah, but that was a BIG part of Road Atlanta's appeal! I loved rocketing down that long straight and setting up for T12 after doing the Dip! What a RUSH!

But folks should realize that Road Atlanta is a high-speed track that rewards both boldness and precision.

 

I plan on being there! I'm only going for one day though, since it will be my first time on the track.

I'm probably going to rent a helmet. That should be ok eh?

CaptinB

 

Should I get a full set of Hawk pads and bring with me to the track? Will I kill my stock brakes in about 1.5 hours of track time??

I've got a 330 mile drive home after a day of racing, maybe I should bring some tools and a set of brake pads??

CaptinB

 

Road Atlanta is a very nice track. It will try to trick you if you arent careful though. Good move on bringing the Hawk pads. I would also suggest some racing gloves, extra power steering fluid(there have been some cases where the power steering fluid got cooked at the track) and a packed lunch. Lol. O and a fold out chair to sit on between sessions.

 

I agree with Pimp1911 on bringing some race pads with you to the track. Brakes are usually the limiting factor in how much time and/or fun you have at the track. Also, don't count on being able to rent a helmet, CaptinB. C'mon! Your head is worth it- go out and buy an SA-rated helmet that actually fits you.

Your head will thank you...

 

What all tools etc will I need to bring to swap the brakes?

Would it be a better Idea to get the Hawks installed BEFORE I goto the track? I'm not much of a mechanic, so I really don't want to get caught 300 miles from home with no brakes.

Thanks for all of the advice thus far!

CaptinB

 

CaptinB- I feel a bit foolish giving advice from way out here in Colorado, but I know the paddock at Road Atlanta is nicely paved. If you have a lightweight jack, jack stands torque wrench and some hand tools, it's not difficult to swap out brake pads at the track. Check your FSM for all the procedures to be certai or do a search under the repair section here.

Failing this, or if you really don't have the skills, tools or time, have a qualified mechanic install them before you leave for the track. And don't forget to have them swap the race pads back to street pads immediately after your return. Race pads are very abrasive on rotors when cold!

Finally, did you get your helmet for this event? It'll add to your confidence when you're flying down the backstraight at 120+ MPH!

 

if this is the panoz track days, and you have no experience, you will be in the touring group which is "follow the leader". You might want new pads in general, but I don't think you will really need them for the level you will be in. They have an instructor car with 4 students following in their own cars. Be careful, too. Their were 2 incidents in the touring groups while I was there last time, none in the more advanced groups. One where a Corvette somehow hit the inside wall of turn one coming out of the pits (how, I dont know!), and one where a BMW X-5 lost it coming out of turn 12 and hit the wall and totalled his truck. Why he had a truck on the track, I don't know either.

 

I think I'm gonna get the stealership to install some Hawk's and a CAI before I hit the track. I'm about tired of all the friggin brake dust from the stock pads anyway. I guess I need to go helmet hunting as well.

Thanks for all the info guys! It's been very helpful!

CaptinB

 

Bump

I'm the first person on the waiting list, because I'm dumb and forgot to fax in my form

If you are going to Road Atlanta and would consider giving up your slot for some compensation, PM or e-mail me.

CaptinB

 

Hawks have a reputation for tearing up rotors more quickly than other race pads. If you're not planning on going to a lot of track events, you might want to consider a combo street/track pad like the Ferodo DS2500, which I've used with some success. They are easier on the rotors, and can be left in all the time, but give better performance on track than the stock pads. I got mine from RaceShopper.

I've moved up to the Carbotech Panther Plus, and may soon try out the Panther XP, which are supposed to last longer. Many people like the Cobalt Friction GT-Sport or Spec VR.

But if you get the Hawks, I think you should switch them in and out at the track, and not leave them in all the time, unless you want to replace your rotors a lot. (And rotors are a lot more expensive than pads.)

It's not hard to change pads: all you need are a jack, torque wrench, large screwdriver, needlenose and/or regular pliers. The first time it may take you half an hour per side, but after the first few times it'll go faster.

As for dust, get used to it. All pads make dust. That's how they work.

 

I got the Hawk HPS "street" pads which everyone on the boards reccomend. They are a nice balance between rotor killing race pads and the super dusty non-track capable OEM brakes.

We'll see how they do. Thanks for all the feedback.
The Stealership is charging $100 to swap the pads. Seems a bit steep (of course!) so maybe I'll do it at home next time. I just don't trust myself working on such an important part of the car.

CaptinB

 

$100 for swapping out pads!? That, my friend, is steep. Maybe they're also turning the rotors, but I'd be careful of taking too much material off. As Commasense suggests, learn to do this simple task yourself and arm yourself with a little knowledge and some tools to do it right.

Also, don't forget to follow the break-in procedure for bedding new pads. There should be directions included with your HPS pads on what they recommend. Nothing worse than taking a new set of pads to the track and having them glaze over...