WTF? BR Type doesn't offer a true coilover, do they? It looks like he took parts from the front coils and put them on the rear shock haha

 

^ Conversion can be done easily! call up the manufacture and order the front "pair" lower rings, mount them on the back and then from there order Swift brand springs or if they sell springs with the required higher spring rate for the rear then get them from the same manufacture at the same time of ordering the front rings....done and done..

-J

 

Interesting pics there in the past 3 posts.

 

LMAO, effective spring rate 20 kgs...

Can't tell if he used two sets of front springs to do this (the spring in the OEM perch).

 

Jason,

Been a long time bro! I got a technical question for ya...i keep hearing a "creaking" or "squeaking" sound anytime I get in and out of the car or over bumps at slow speeds (speedbumps and what not). The sound started bout a week ago...its only on the rear driver side.

I checked the coils and other stuff to make sure everything is torqued down right. I greased up the sway bars. Nothing was loose, I had a friend bounce on the trunk and narrowed it down to the old spring perch? It's hard to re-create the sound unless the car is on the ground.

Any ideas of how to get rid of the sound!?!?

 

well, first off, if you narrowed it down to the perch, then replace the perch if its replaceable or get another oem shock and replace the entire assembly.

or

go buy gasket macker and make yourself gaskets to mount inbetween parts on the perch and test...


from there, read here and try some of their findings:
https://my350z.com/forum/exterior-an...unk-hatch.html

-J

 

Thanks bro i'll try out the gasket maker...i didn't even think about that. lol...

 

Fawking good luck! This fawkin car has more noises then my Jeep Wrangler does when I'm going 35mph on offroad terrain. I swear I could curse more but will spare everyone.

 

Hey Jason, I'm running 17" x 9.5" rims with 255/40/17 front and rear. my fender to ground distance is 25" front and 25 1/2" rear. My Z is a base model with no traction control. I don't have the .975 front to back tire ratio. Will this cause other problems even though I don't have traction control.

 

I can't remember if the base models have VDC in 2005. IF you don't have VDC, you're fine.

 

no, just wouldn't be balanced as designed is all.........

half the time guys only "install" coil overs and never actually "set them up" correctly.....leading to bottoming up front, upper control arms banging-maxing out, soft unloaded rear end, etc..

-J

 

You've always been really knowledgeable in the wheel/suspension forums. Do you know where I could find some aggressive vs conservative settings for my Z?

To better explain, I would like to review these settings before I go to the dealer and have them set my caster/camber/toe to my liking.

My Z is stock. I have no comber kits or suspension mods.

I know that there is not much room for adjustment in the stock setup, but I want them to tune it to be a little more conservative (not to much) but enough to curb my inside tire wear a little bit. I also know that there is a wide "green band" for what is acceptable for a all wheel alignment for the Z and that the far negative edge of the green band is way to aggressive and will chew through the inside tread very quickly, even though it's an acceptable percentage as far as they are concerned.

I hope that this was clear in what I am looking for; I can't seem to find anything except for people talking about after-market kits and wheels when searching for this information.

The last time I had my wheels aligned they gave me a neat printout from the alignment machine showing me in a sort-of graph form where my wheels were before my adjustment and where they adjusted them too. Something like that with some of the requested information above would greatly benefit me.

Thank you.

Justin

(posted per your request Jason)

 

Thank you...I wanted you to post this PM to me because this like many others is a good question that all should benefit from.

Please everyone, post on here versus pm me so all types of questions are asked and at least attempted to be answered. I know i covered all that i could in this thread, but I do see that there are many more questions from the pms I still receive.

[QUOTE=JasonZ-YA]STOCK Z:
Front:
you can NOT adjust camber or caster
you can only adjust toe

REAR:
you can adjust camber
you can adjust toe


Ya, i know what your looking for and at stock height i would say to do

Front:
CAMBER: -1.0
Toe: .06

REAR:
Camber: -1.3 to -1.5
Toe: .08

* just aim for the middle of the range in toe *



Noted everything else, yes its clear....
what print outs the shops give are different depending on their machine's capabilities....usually its just numerical giving before an afters.

TO BE QUITE HONEST......knowing what i know now. the best advise i can give you is to NOT even bother with alignment until you purchse front upper control arms.

I highly recommend that you check out these Kinetics upper arms because they are only 239 shipped and are very easy to adjust.
https://my350z.com/forum/8293437-post7.html

This will give you the ability to adjust your front camber and eliminate the wear strips you talk about on the inner edge of the front tires. camber over time is whats causing that......yes toe can cause that too, but if you do an alignment now you will see that you can adjust your toe, but your camber is the reason why you have the inner wear - becuase its wear over a longer period of time.......bad toe will cause that same kinda wear, but it will do it QUICK!

trust me, save the money on alignment and get the kinetics arms first! adjust them out about 2 turns longer than your oem arms (compare the two) and then go for an alignment.

Also, can you please post your question in the suspension 101 thread:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ion-101-a.html

I would like this question there for all to see....then I will copy paste my exact answer to you for all too see.

Thanks,
-J

 

Jason, have you ridden and/or messed w/ the suspension on the 370's?
Is it the exact same?
Do they suffer from inner tire wear?
Do they ride smoother (from a DD perspective)

 

I did get to play with NEXX's G37 and do a Eibach spring install.
You can see my comments on this site's HOW TO:
(Jasontamu is my Screen name)
http://teamlags.com/install-eibach-springs-g37/


It's not EXACTLY the same, but still a LONG ARM SLA design. so its very similar. the endlink bolt is also the lower shock mount to translink bolt, etc...so geometric differences.

I cant comment on the other items and i haven't had much seat or wrench time with them.

-J

 

Jason would you care to elaborate on this? Toyo Proxes R888's are now avalible in 275/40/17's and will fit on my 17x9.5 CE28N rims for the rear wheel/tire, would this be a more balanced than running 255/40/17 R888's all the way around?

 

Thanks Jason. I'm gettin out of this death rattle 350 and into a 370.

 

Hi everyone,

I understand that the compression rod bushing is a necessity when lowering the Z, but I was wondering... other than the compression rod bushing, what bushings would you say take priority in terms of replacement?

My car has 72k miles on it, I have the eibach prokit, spc rear camber arms and I plan on installing tockico d-specs this December. I don't know if that's relevant, but I figured I'd put it out there.

Thanks in advance,

Rob

 

quick answer:

SUSPENSION RELATED:
Front:
1. spl compression rod bushing
2. spl inner translink bushing - at k member location
3. translink shock mount - whiteline or spl, no biggy there.

upper control arm - something aftermarket that meets your needs, budget.

Rear:
1. only one to really watch is the rear shock to spindle mount bushing.
2. radius rod, replace with rod end styled arm like SPL.

DIFF/rear chassis:
1. spl solid diff bushings.

2. depending on car use, subframe bushings - whiteline

I can elaborate more later..
-J

 

Been hearing from some of the local drifters that the rear spindle bushing are going bad on them. So keep on eye on them if you abuse your car.