Generally no.

 

Yeah caster's affect is not recognized until the wheel is turned (to keep it brief). So while your driving straight the extra caster is little to no deteriment on tire wear.

 

exactly....

The only other thing I can say is that a torn oem compression rod bushing that is torn really bad will yield horrible alignment numbers.......

if you get the car alignment, and all is in the "green"/in spec.....the moment you drive around the building and back on the rack everything will be off again......the movement at that point paired with the Z's small toe range doesnt yield much room for flexibility.........

many props to spl for making the compression rod bushing...

Next i will say.......Ive never seen a factory Z with caster falling right on spec 8.1 on the money...they are all off a bit......even with the spl bushing...so your caster can come in above or below it, but should be within .5 at most from each other left to right...........Nissan says .75, but thats nuts IMHO...

-J

 

I would also like to thank you guys for posting up..........i can use the help on this thread.......

-J

 

Man I thought that was just me

 

^ ya man......i attribute it all to flexy front end........while on the alignment rack if you tighten the strut bar things change too easily.......im just certain there are fabrication weakness up front that lend to it from day one..

-J

 

Awesome thread. I had to subscribe and plan on fully reading it later.

How are the harness braces coming along? You still making those? I've often thought about getting one.

 

Thanks for pointing me out to this thread.. Very Informative...

I still don't understand a few things.

As per SPC website & info:

http://www.spcalignment.com/PROD_DIR...d2=72265&cmd3=

Also take a look at the instructions...

This product shows that the bolts supplied can adjust the camber and toe +-3 degrees.

I don't understand why you wouldn't be fine with this set-up on a moderate drop.


Another question.. Has SPC fixed their inferior flaw with the bolts/washers moving out of place?

 

you will be fine with a moderate drop..ie, like i mention on this thread .75" or less drop the spc crap works to get you back into alignment specs..........it just doesn't necessarily stay in spec as the eccentrics slip/move, etc....

this also being that your keeping the factory wheels, tire sizes, etc.........if you are putting on bigger wheels with bigger tires, etc then the "SLA designed" suspension that the 350z has attributes to the reason why the SPC bolts wont get u into spec.....

buy it and try it...go get alignment, and with your set up (u haven't listed what you are doing?) if you get into spec and are happy with it then great...but if you find your lacking then buy the appropriate products from there...

-J

 

Just spoke to spc and I was right. Both kits will adjust your toe and camber. The only difference is the camber arm will adjust 1 degree more than the bolts.

If you're dropping your car more than 1.5 inches then its recommended that you buy the camber arm.

 

right about what?? im pretty sure ive answered you that you would be fine...
yes, with stock wheels and tires.......stock suspension, etc...with a mild drop, u will come close..

u still have yet listed what your set up is, what your looking to achieve...??

So are you planning on buying spc 3 degree eccentric bolts for both rear camber and toe? if your happy with that choice then have at it.......if you are content with post 19's information then enjoy.......spc bolts at the camber location will slip...mark and watch them and monitor your tire wire, get alignments regularly..

-J

 

Awesome thread. Took me a few hours to absorb the basics. Still not familiar with the part names as I'd like to be, but atleast i can go back to the pictures for reference. Anyway, I think I have narrowed down the suspension parts I want on my car.

Never track, nor will I ever and very gently driven.

The parts I'm looking at right now are:

1. Tokico D-Specs with rear extensions.

2. Eibach Pro-Kit

3. Eibach revised rear camber kit with toe bolts

4. Kinetix Front Upper Control Arms

5. Possibly a few whiteline or spl bushings depending on whats worn out already. Compression rods were warrantied a couple thousand miles ago.

6. Tein inner and outer tie rods (one of my oem ones is bent).

7. Endlinks - Still not sure which ones to get.

Whatcha think Jason?

 

Not bad man....I myself would have the same set up if i had a daily driven Z....so your good...

as for item 6 - tie rods - you can get oem tie rods as well, if your looking to gain steering angle you can do that with the tien's of course, but if you read my DRIFTING 101 thread, you can see my info on tie rods there on the first few post.

https://my350z.com/forum/drift/39963...ing-the-z.html

Item 7 end links - since its a daily driver and your not racing, nor have adjustable height suspension or corner balancing the car or any of that jazz, then all you really need are stock end links,.......at most, then get the Z1 Powergrid end links.......i choose/recommend those for you as so you can keep the car quiet for daily driving...

-J

 

I just installed the D-Spec Shock/Spring combo on my 05 Touring.
I have 19s 9.5 with 245/35/19 front and 10.5 with 275/35/19 rear. Car is still waiting
for the first test drive after the D-Spec install because it is stored for winter. I have the SPC camber and toe kit waiting for installation after everything settles. Now after reading about all the slip stuff with the toe bolts, I am tempted to just install
the camber arms first, go for allignment and see if I can live with the toe. Is this something you would consider if it was your car? Thanks

 

^ with those wheels alone, odds are your gonna need the spc toe bolts...

I wouldnt recommend out of spec toe.......thats what kills tires.....u want matching left to right toe specs.... 0.04 on both sides....etc..
-J

 

Ok. Thanks. I just will have to put the markers on to watch for slipping. I don't remember
if you wrote about a better alternative product to avoid this situation except for the
guy that had a machine shop cut him something better. I am a CNC programmer with
CAD/CAM experience and I wish I knew exactly what he did as far as specs go.

 

! dude!!!

go cut out a 1.30/1.33 diameter circle! then machine out the half moon but with a tight tolerance to the bolt....to eliminate the 5 degree of bobble i talk about...

about the best option...

-J

 

Thanks Jason. Only reason I chose the Tein's are because I dont want to risk bending the OEM ones again. But its hard for me to justify the price, so I think I'll just get the OEM ones if they'll do.

After sleeping on it last night, it wouldnt make sense for me to get the D-specs+Eibach springs since BC coilovers are about $100 more. So I think I'll go all out there.

It just gets more and more expensive...

 

Thanks. I am going back to the post and pics. As far as tight tolerance goes, we are in Medical components and deal with tolerances of +/- .0005 all the time and sometimes less than that so that should not be a problem. I definetly would not need it to be that tight. Again Thanks

 

So correct me if I'm wrong. If you have the oem spring setup in the rear using the spring bucket, you could buy these SPL rear mid links which you could then get rid of the toe bolts and just use the eccentric lockout kit since the mid links are adjustable, correct?

I figure that would be a better option then using aftermarket toe bolts.