^ yes of course.......i mention this back in the beginning......post 21, 4th pic down.

3 degree SPC bolt kit - 30 bucks
http://www.importpartspro.com/spcretoadbok.html

SPL pro midlink - $655:
http://www.splparts.com/SPL_RML_Z33.html
then plus lock out washers... + $30??

see, the thing is, everyone buys the spc bolts....LoL...

-J

 

Holy cow those midlinks are expensive.

 

No kidding!

 

With over 120K on the clock and a ton of different setups run, over roads that can offer plenty of bumps and inpacts. I have never seen the oem or SPC toe cam bolts move,..........EVER. And I mark the washer and subframe together so I'm not guessing. So install the toe cam bolts from SPC and get the toe the way it's supposed to be.

 

I have seen them move......i think your's don't because of your knowledge on alignments and you probably doing it yourself?????

I have seen crappy alignment techs over power the "flat", due to not loosening the nut side enough.....if any of these Daily driver guys are dropping their car off at alignment and sitting in the waiting room then they are not ensuring the trailing cam bolt is following the head cam bolt???

I mention all of this earlier on (post 19 - during alignment this is what should be done comment).....where i talk about what you should be doing while your car is being aligned....watch them do it..ensure the trailing cam is following the bolt head side cam...

-J

 

Interesting. I guess I would have to find a place where they will alow me under the car
to ensure this. In most cases due to safety reasons, customers are not allowed in the work area

 

^ yep.......exactly, it can be frustrating at times....ive been lucky enough to talk my way back and now they all know me and welcome me, its no biggy now..

its just that due, to the issues that can happen, its best to be there, have a good understanding of what exactly is being done, and ensure the alignment is being done right...

-J

 

At the least I will explain the situation to them and see if they even understand.
That will determine if I stay there or go somewhere else. Like you said, GSedan35 is so knowledgeable in suspension, he will catch any screw up right away and it sounds like
there would be no slipping if done right

 

Ya in general i the 3 degree bolts aren't made well....if the slots/doctors pill in the subframe are not dremeled and are not opened up well, then the alignment tech is giving all his might to fight the eccentric past the raised flats in the subframe...

I attribute that issue to those following the "protocav spc bolt install" he states that all you need to do is elongate the doctors pill to the inside only...and this is true, but if the alignment tech doesn't know you did that, then he fights to turn the eccentric all the way around versus going back the opposite way, then he is prematurely fugg'n everything up....

then, plus, the alignment tech is watching the screen, not constantly checking to ensure the trailing eccentric is following...........

PLUS ~~~ the trailing cam/eccentric isnt on "shank" of the bolt...its being pushed around with the "threads" of the bolt......its to easy for it to be fugged up and the cam "flat" over powered...

The weak tolerance on the cam cut out is horrible too...the 5 degree bobble is horrible...

In general, they kinda suck, but they are a low cost toe adjustment for the Z....

-J

 

Too many factors involved. No wonder a lot of guys go for moderate drops to avoid having to worry about all these. On the bright side it provides a learning curve to understand how all these litlle pieces play their roles to make up a working suspension

 

Anyone know how much I should expect to spend on a coilover and front/rear camber set up? Trying to price out a budget.

 

^
That will be difficult for anyone to do. Wide range from around $1000 all the way up to over $3000. Depends on what you want. Lots of discusions on this. Spend sometime in the market place, search the suspension area for tons of threads about this and make a decision

 

This is exactly why I would rather buy the SPL rear mid links with lock bolts instead of having the toe bolts. Ya, you may pay 500-600+ bucks for them, but I would rather have piece of mind driving hard at the track if I so desire knowing that I won't have toe bolts that can "slip" and my alignment goes kaput.

 

Oops, I meant how much I should spend on the install. I've read as low as 240 and as high as 400.

 

I installed mine myself, and trust me I'm no mechanic. You just need some basic tools, jack stands, jack, ect. I didn't even need a spring compressor to get the front strut/spring out. There is a DIY thread on here. If you do take it somewhere, I'm going to guess they would charge you atleast 3-4 hours labor.

 

Exactly. Just read through the DIYs on spring installs. You would end up doing it better than paying someone to half-**s it. Besides, it is always fun to work on your car. The first time might take you hours but from then on, you can do it in less than half the time. I suggest you enter the Spring install threads and ask any questions. More info there on that topic

 

Looking to replace worn out stock suspension.

I drive it hard on the street. Getting wheel hop so 1st step is installing solid diff bushings and while I'm at it I want to swap in some new support.

Not really interested in a 1 inch drop. Minor drop is okay. Just want slightly stiffer over stock.

What are my best bets?

Thanks

Sent from my HTC Incredible.

 

^ many spring options to choose from.........shocks i would replace at least with monroes or go for something adjustable...

https://my350z.com/forum/8293479-post10.html
-J

 

Jason- I have 3 suspension choices right now and can't decide. Right now I have GF210's spring with stock shocks. I am getting rid of them. I am looking at getting
KW Variant 2
Tanabe Pro 5 w/Teas
Tein w/ EDFC(Probably flex)

This is all strictly for daily driving. I don't want anything that is much harsher then the GF210's. What do you recommend?

 

I have driven a 350z with GF210s........so I semi know whats thats like....

as for being an expert on telling you what to choose, i would be lieing to ya...I have never been on any of those 3 choices you listed.....

From doing a quick search, and not knowing what ride height you want.....ie, im guessing a low ride height since you had the GF210s......?!!??!

My guess would be the KW, then the Tanabes, but i dont seem to trust the manufactures web site general notes....i like to see actual pics of the actual units for the 350z to see how they are constructed and then look at spring rates, etc...

The cabin controlled dampening, etc.......loose that idea....its moot...heavy and pointless...

-J