I havent seen an spl "eccentric" toe bolt before? only lock out washers. I would recommend lock out at the camber location and if you lower your car your gonna be forced to use an aftermarket eccentric bolt at the spring bucket location.

i looked on spl's site and didnt see an eccentric toe bolt. if you have a link, post it and i can check it out.

many have asked this, but no one has followed through that i know of...

have at it...

I recommend longer for a few reasons...a fabricator would just measure the bolt.

just ensure you dont bottom on the shank with a bolt thats longer. also, its good for a camber or toe arm to contact on shank of a bolt versus threads of a bolt......thus why i made mine on my car longer bolts.

from there ensure you use zinc coated bolts, grade 10.9, etc.
-J

 

Fantastic thread! after reading and reading some more I finally think I found the solution to my -4.2 camber in my fronts. I have come to the conclusion that I will need some Upper Control arms and will need to replace my Compression arm bushings that I will probably get from whiteline. I'm going to purchase the kinetix UCA's. Will this allow me to get my front camber fixed? The only thing that is bugging me is in the description that kinetix provides, it states that I will have 1.5 degrees of adjustability. Does this mean the lowest I will be able to go is -2.7 degrees of camber? This is much better but I just want to make sure I'm understanding everything correctly. Thanks.

 

Alright guys my question which has been asked a million times but i cant find it anywhere... I am purchasing BC Coilovers today and intend on keeping near OEM ride height during the winter (need snow clearance), but max-ing out the drop in the summer (April or so of next year).

My question is with the BC racing maxxed out on the low side, will i need a front camber kit? I know the eibach is like half the price but will it adjust enough? Do i need the SPC or SPL kit (which one?). Also, would you guys recommend doing sway bars at the same time or waiting? Thinking about going coilovers then when i slam for summer going with some sways and the front camber kit. I have an alignment connection so i can get aligned whenever i want for free... Also endlinks are a concern. I can grease the hell out of everything but i am VERY annoyed by squeaks/noises. I have slammed many cars without any noises, just want to do the same on this car!

 

^bump

 

ya, i think the description is semi vague or based on a stock car height - and would make sense because at stock height if you did 1.5 degrees worth of turning you would be bottomed out on the nut,........again, just a guess, but i have installed a bunch of kinetix front upper arms on really low cars and have gotten into spec....so im sure you will be fine.

when a z is lowered, and kinetix arms are used, it requires threading "out" the rod end from the arm to bring the negative camber closer to zero......so obviously you can't un thread it from the arm all the way...some shank needs to stay inside the arm..

This part is hard to imagine, and i plan to take a picture of this but read on~

with the car jacked up, wheel off and kinetix arm installed you can unthread the upper arm only so far....see unthreading it a bit, which extends the rod end outboard....which at a point will not go "UP" into the shock tower cause it can hit the z tower lip common to the upper wheel well liner... --- to check this, install the arm, thread it out, and swing the arm up and down on its mount points and see if it clears the wheel well liner which is mounted to the metal tower edge that it can hit if its threaded to far out...at that point, thats the closest to zero you can obtain -- with ANY upper control arm!

re-read that if you have too....again, i plan to take pics of this one day.

also, you wanna leave at least two times the diameter of the rod end shank inside the kinetix arm......i wouldnt go less that 1.5x...but regardless the z shock tower edge will limit u regardless..

-J

 

Yes, if you lower your Z you need front camber kit, especially when going lower then .75 to 1 inch....
or, you can drive around with really negative camber..
----Pretty sure i covered this in the first page of this thread..............plz re-read about this and upper arms to be sure you understand it...



the eibach front arms are junk...for your case/needs that you explain, i would think the kinetix arms are best suited for ease of adjustment...ie read my description of the kinetix on page 1 and apply it to your wanting to change camber for two different set ups...


The endlinks and noise is easy.......

- OEM endlinks make noise on lowered cars because the are solid unadjustable length endlinks designed at a length for stock ride height....

try and picture this for a minute, but when you lower the z the moving dynamic suspension points move UP/point up where the chassis goes down!!......thats what lowering the car does.......it "lowers the car" duh......lol..

well, the swaybar is attached to the CAR!! its attached/mounted to the K-member.........Sooo, when you lower the car, the k-member goes with it.....

the endlinks join the end of the swaybar to the "now pointed up" translink lower suspension arm........that in itself calls for a slightly longer endlink.....done and done...

-aftermarket adjustable endlinks make noise - BECAUSE they are usually male female paired rod ends or similar set up..

Powergrids are about the only endlink that wont make noise becuase they are actually tiny lower ball joints or tie rod ends......with grease boots, etc..

so if you want quiet......cut weld and lengthen oem endlinks OR buy powergrid endlinks and adjust them longer than oem length....

if you want quiet...they why slamm the car...your just gonna scrap everywhere you go making road contact noises????
-J

 

Just installed Stance coils and I'm getting this creaking noise from the driver's front. It seems to be happening when I hit protruding cracks in the asphault but remains silent during dips. The car is only lowered about a quarter to a half inch lower than my S-Techs were. The first video is in first gear through a parking lot, the 2nd is at highway speed. Any ideas?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0L7GnPtvHk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tmYv244JMQU

 

Thanks for the advice. I read it again and i can see where you are coming from. I am on htechs now with only a rear camber kit and the fronts are within a reasonable range of spec, but i am looking for something similar to what i have now (-2 degrees or so) with it an inch or so lower. I just dont want anything that will break, the eibachs seem like they are crap quality conisdering the price. So SPC or SPL or kinetix...? SPL seems to make more noise, but they can go lower... decisions decisions, i like your kinetix recommendation, thanks for that.

And to answer your question it is purely for looks and road noises dont make me think my car is falling apart lol. I have driven sub-2" clearance cars for my entire driving career until now, ready to get back to that. Also in KC where the roads are thankfully great.

 

so how fast will 4* of camber kill my tires in the back!?! daily driven but not hard...

 

Arnt eibach camber arms rebadged spc units?

 

You will go through the inside of the tire in about 60% of the rated life (if there is one for that tire).

So you would lose about 40% life. I am at -3.5 and i am seeing around 70% life compared to most. Then again I drive "kind of hard" and definitely DD.

 

Now that I think about it, I may have unintentionally changed the preload while adjusting the ride height. Can I adjust the preload to 5mm with the coilovers still attached to the translink? Do I need to have both front wheels off the ground or can I do it one wheel at a time?

 

Pretty dam quick, why would you want that much camber? Much over -2.5 out back and you start to lose cornering performance.

 

well right now i have to so that i dont rub on everything...thinking about a smaller spacer and taking out some camber

Thanks for the info!!

 

Also, if you have a little too much toe with alot of camber, you will destroy tires faster than you can buy them.

 

well i have a buddy who owns a shop and so he said we would run an alignment check every 3 weeks for a little while to see how well its holding an alignment, so hopefully i can keep the toe in check!

 

Hey, i was wondering if you could help me out with some alignment issues. I lowered my car on some stance coils with SPL Toe + Camber arms in the rear, nothing in the front.

The Caster on the front is within .75 of each other but it seems 9.6 is way to high since its in red. In your post you said that its off a lot due to bad bushings, so would you suggest that i just check all my front right bushings?

And i was also wonder why the camber would be off so much from the left to the right. I dont see why its so off since its lowered the same on both front and right, would front camber arms be the only way to solve that issue?


Any help is much appreciated.

 

*double post*

 

DJ,

Front Compression arm bushing:
your front compression arm bushing is gone....replace it with the SPL front compression arm bushing.

energy suspension, etc aren't worth it...get the front SPL compression arm bushing.

that bushing alone will yield the difference in caster and have a lil affect on camber like shown on your sheet to cause your issue..fixing this will bring the left/right sides more to matching numbers. from there, having one coilover on one side shorter or longer can cause front camber difference. so if your sure your coilovers are identical lenghts left to right, then start with this bushing.

Front Translink bushings (2 each):
now, from there, you can review your front translink bushings...odds are those are next and i recommend replacing them if they are torn. The inner one will be the main culprit.

the outter one (coilover lower mount location) will squeeze downward, but usually that's equal on both left/right of the car..the outter is the one to watch for and causes the most issues...

My recommendation on bushings here is whiteline for a street driven car...for a track car i would get spl inner for sure and the outter can still be whiteline as its articulation is minimal.....but most track guys go full spl up front, but the outter isnt too too critical.


review here for transverse link arm:
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ight=translink

that covers both arms on the front...
from there, check your ball joint at the bottom of the spindle...it wont cause alignment issue, unless something is seriously wrong...but more a maintence check due to them tearing at the rubber and letting grease out.


NEXT - front camber in general:
now, say you replace bushings and your matching left to right...then your good...

BUT, your camber is now -1.8 on both sides.....there is no fixing this unless you get front upper control arms...its due to your drop...the more you lower the car, the more negative the camber will be...must get Front upper arms to fix camber correctly.


re-read this thread from the beginning..i covered all of this..but this is a good refresher..


-J

 

Thanks, i appreciate the info. ill check out all the bushings next weekend