Either one or both depending on your config.

 

First of all, I would like to give big thanks JasonZ-ya for the time and effort in sharing his knowledge here. I've learned lots of stuff reading this thread.

I was just thinking about the rear toe-bolt being too squishy after agressive driving. What if the bolt and washers were just welded together once the adjustment is done? Any thoughts on this? The toe angle will be permanent but at least it keeps the bolt from sliding... or will it?

Thoughts on this? Thanks!

 

The toe bolts and lock washers that Jason made for me and helped me install are all you need. You shouldn't have to weld anything. If it ever does come out of spec just take the time to adjust. I wouldn't want to weld anything that is designed to be adjusted if need be.

 

hi,

the material of the toe bolts sold cant be welded, you will weaken the strength of the bolt with localized heat (welding). the bolts sold by spc and others are zinc coated bolts.

maybe, if you had a machine shop machine a raw steel bolt, machine lock out washers with a tight enough tollerance then you wouldnt need to weld anything really, but if you wanted to then you could.

but at that cost, you might as well upgrade the parts like mentioned in this thread and go with lock out washers and be done.

-J

 

Understood! much appreciated, Jason and Allstar!

 

Ok, so i`ve been reading and reading. Quick Q&A please.

I`ll be buying true style coilovers soon soon, and plan on dropping it roughly 2" all around. I understand front upper control arm, my problem is the rear...

So there is the rear camber arm and toe arm and toe bolt adjustment...correct?
I want to by everything at once to put them on and get an lineament.

I`m confused about the toe bolt. Do i have to get this to make the other two work right. Also I meanly want to just replace the toe arm(oem bucket..) I`ll be running some camber due to my wheel offest. I saw that you might or will have to drill a bigger whole etc and dont want to do that....Please I`ve been pulling my hair out. Thanks

 

Just finished up installing the Energy Suspension Rear Subframe Mounts and all the rear suspension bushings. Already did the whole front 2 months ago.

Wow what a difference, still running stock shocks and springs and the car feels a 100x better in the corners.

I had a real bad wheel hop problem with dry pavement and its completely gone. Took alot of work to get the 4 spindle bushings out, as well as figuring out how to get the stock springs ans shocks bolted up at the same time.

If anyone out there is thinking of doing this i made the press plates and what not to get the job done (shop press and impact gun required). Up for borrowing with deposit.

Jason-Z: I know your the first on the list

 

Post #131 in this thread has good pictures and explanation of the camber & toe arms being used with coilovers:

https://my350z.com/forum/suspension/...hipping-3.html

.

 

^ I looked and it was just a couple sentences about a spinlde...I must be looking at the wrong post? I looked and understand, I`ll be getting camber arm, and toe arm+bolt thanks....read and read and read haha

 

Post number 131...it clearly shows the components of the suspension.Nothing about spindles that I saw in there...

 

when you use a toe arm, you do not need a toe bolt

 

Thanks you, thats the exact info i was looking for....

George, like i said, I must be looking at the wrong post, post 131 of this thread is:


Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmertech

that being said, the largest downside imo to putting the spring on the damper is the spindle. i'm not totally against the idea in general(i have relocated springs on other cars i have owned with good success) but after looking at the spindle closely you can see that the material that will be now supporting the entire weight of the vehicle is very small and was not designed to withstand the extra load. being a poor guy who buys parts when he can, the cost of having someone design a rear spindle is just too much.
I see what your saying and I have read that thread before where one member did his own analysis on the spindle, but I have yet to see anyone till this day have a failed rear spindle due to running rear true coil overs.......

"maybe" full out race teams have reinforced spindles like mentioned in that thread (still not shown/verified), but given the OP's uses, mine and even now ROM350z question above on post 129 who's to say with his uses he will have failed spindle issues............I cant see it...

I daily my car, track my car at AutoX events and Drift events...I have spun out, drifted 3rd and 4th gear high speed entries and till this day have seen a crack out of a rear spindle..who knows maybe my time is coming, but its been years and if that happens....hell, i just buy another spindle, repair whats broken....etc....

Now, if i was preping a full out race 350z then sure I would look to reinforce and do the things mentioned in that thread........

Great info.....keep the convo going...anyone else have insight to share??

-J

 

Howard: Post #131 of the coilover thread...not THIS thread.

 

see,i tried telling you i was special

 

Ok so i just ordered true coilovers, rear and rear camber arms, and toe arms. The more i read this thread the more questions i have....

So i was reading the part with lock nuts/bolts/spacer.....DO i need these? Or since i have the arms i wont need these.....reading that i need to watch the alignment tech makes me kinda wonder about there skills. But anyways, please help.

 

So i just got a pair of Fortune auto 500 adjustable coil overs. i wanna lower my car about 2" in the rear and 1" in the front. Im on stock 05 ... 17" wheels. i just have the coil overs. what else do i need ? can i just install the coils or do i need camber arms or idk .. Idk much about suspension work.. please help

 

Do people read anymore?

 

no they don't... it's a mix of and

I rarely post questions for stuff that i can find by reading the threads, start at page one and work my way through until the DIY or Knowledge is done... then it's just randoms posting garbage, usually.

YOU don't HAVE to get camber arms... but you'll smoke through some tires in no time. You can install the coilovers and not slam it for now, until you get some more suspension goodies.

What you can get away with:

For the front:
-get camber arms at a minimum
-whiteline bushings are AWESOME!!!
-compression rod bushings (SPL) are awesome too... i haven't tried them yet though.
- and you'll eventually want new tierods too... cause the angle and wear of the ball joint.

For the rear:
-Camber arms
-Traction rod
-If you're doing a true coilover, you'll want spring bucket delete arms
-whiteline bushes again!
-eccentric lock out bolts.

if you wanna get stiff, throw in the SPL/Sikky or whiteline solid/poly subframe bushes and solid diff mount bushings.

if you buy a little at a time and then install it all at once, you get the most bang for the buck that you can feel and you only have to take EVERYTHING apart once. But the assemble as you go works just as well...

Give the thread a read, it's pretty awesome and informative! AND anyone can do this, if you just try

 

which front tie rods would we need? the inner or outer front tie rods?

 

I just got the inner tierods, they work great. You can even add a spacer to get extra steering angle. i used them and enjoy them. I need to replace the outers next... not that big of a hassle to do that though.