So after spending countless hours researching a myriad of different specs, reviews & prices, I am extremely informed but increasingly confused due to the amount of contradictory/incorrect information put out there. Also, I find it unhelpful when people a) ask for people's opinions on coilovers without detailing application information and b) when people provide information without knowing the desires of the inquirer...these don't help anybody.

I am looking for opinions on what you think are some of the best damping coilovers for a DD that will be lowered at least 2" below stock. I'd also like to keep results below the $2,000 price ceiling but for the sake of others, let's not entirely eliminate those that exceed...just please have your reasons. Personally I don't think there's any reason to drop more than $2,000 on coilovers that are exclusively for street.

On paper, it looks like the new Tanabe Sustec Pro Z40 has everything needed at the $2,000 range...

*40-way dampening adjustment
*damper made by KYB
*twin tube damper
*looks like a progressive spring in the rear

Looks like they're doing their best to try and manufacture a performing coilover while trying to maintain comfort for the street.

Opinions from everyone especially those who have used this setup on the street would be much appreciated although may be tough to come by given that they are new.

Other systems that have great specs and great feedback would include the KW Variant 1/2/3 however I don't think they go lower than 1.5" which in part I'm sure contributes to the positive feedback regarding ride qulaity. I also hear good things about Cusco Zero2 (slightly expensive), Bilstein PSS9/10 (again may not go low enough), Tein Flex seems great on paper however I hear as much bad as good. Same goes for the infamous Stance GR+. Confirm or contrast

If anyone can contribute from experience, I would really appreciate it and although I know there have been threads like this in the past, I don't think any of them have been up to snuff. Also, so that others who are looking for coilovers for a different application may benefit, please provide feedback regarding first hand experience with coilovers used for circuit, drift, etc etc.

 

Hey whist the weight difference between the spring bucket and the toe arm?

 

Toe arms do weigh less....i did weigh mine, but dont remember the exact number....

The physical advantages (alignment ease, etc) are worth more than the weight savings....

-J

 

Yeah I figure that I was just curious how much of a difference, Ill be getting this all installed within the week I hope. Im trying to figure out how to make my own lock out washers? Where did you go to make them or get them?

 

Just measure twice and cut once....
measure oem bolt, buy same metric equivalent, etc....its easy...

aside from that many vendors sell them....SPL parts.com, etc.

-J

 

did you ever figure this out? i have the same problem

 

Sounds like the top plate on your coils. I had the same problem.

I tightened down the nut on the top of the coils with an Impact per Stance's recommendations. Problem went away.

Could also be your endlinks if you have the stock ones.

 

The problem was in the coilovers but I took them off and sold them. I tried to tighten the top nut but it was difficult w/o an impact wrench.

 

i'll try to have the top of the coilovers impacted. i know my mechanic hand torqued

i do have spl front endlinks as well

i also heard the top plate of the coils go bad (oem piece) would you recommend replacing them as well?

thanks!

 

It wouldn't hurt.

 

Here you don't recommend them for a lowered car or just any car?

I'm planning not to lower the car and I already got a full front set of the ES bushings. I already installed them in the LCA and there is a compression rod bushing set and upper control arm bushing set also...
I was thinking of installing them also but after reading this thread I'm in two minds. As far as compression rod, I think I would buy SPL bushings instead.
But there is no info on replacing the upper control arm bushings. I figured If the car is not lowered then you don't need to replace your front control arm with aftermarket one. But since I got ES polyurethane bushings in the lower control arm, there is a bigger pressure applies to the rest of them, which make me replacing upper control arm and compression rod bushings. Is that right?

 

im having an issue very similar sounding to yours but in the passenger rear...zman when you say your rear control arm was loose are you referring to the rear camber arms or was your actual spring bucket loose? I did upgrade my rear camber arms to SPL a few months back maybe they got loose after that. Ill try checking both.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8ktL...1&feature=plcp

 

thanks for the input everyone. my mechanic tightened the nuts on top of the coilover mounts, the big coilover nut 18-21mm one, and sprayed down my bushings in the front.

NOISE WENT AWAY

 

In regards to the true style coil overs, I read a couple times that the rear upper mount can be destroyed, is this true? I'm trying to located any information about it but I am unable to find it.

 

Not sure how much truth there is there as I know of quite a few race teams using the true style rear set up

 

Yeah, I am not sure either. A lot of people say that the ca rid not meant for it but I don't think I found a single story that verifies those comments. Plus I won't be tracking it either.

 

And those race car's have modification's to the rear suspension that no average car owner knows to do or more importantly WILL do. Has nothing to do with the upper mounts or anything near their.


No it's not ment for it. And it has zero to do with the upper mount or upper mount area. It is basically a geometric issue. Nissan got the suspension design right in the first place.

 

Good to know, I was just saying I hear of it being done...

 

well too late I have True style installed lol.

 

2 questions for anyone that can answer.

1. i have spc camber arm and toe bolt. Im going with true type rear and will get an spl toe arm. is there any modifications i need to do since i had the spc toe bolt in place and had the hole elongated for the toe bolt?

2. the lockout washers i can use to secure what exactly? the toe arms? camber arms?