Suspension 101
F2Cmadmax: The brand youre referring to is SPC. SPL on the other hand is high quality product.
^ You could get 2 alignments, but that could get pricey since youll have to get a full 4 wheel alignment every time you change out a rear part. I learned that one the hard way, thought Id be paying 20 bucks when I changed my toe arms but no, $120. That money could go towards the camber arms themselves.
^ You could get 2 alignments, but that could get pricey since youll have to get a full 4 wheel alignment every time you change out a rear part. I learned that one the hard way, thought Id be paying 20 bucks when I changed my toe arms but no, $120. That money could go towards the camber arms themselves.
From the start of the article, it looks like i need the front camber arm otherwise i'll have poor tyre wear.
I've also read that if i can find springs that keep it at or under .8 of an inch, then i don't need all this, but i've no idea what springs only drop it that far (other than unobtanium Nismos)
Unless i get expensive coil overs, i can't control that drop and i can't use the rods that guy makes
Trav - Yeah, i'm not familiar with either brand, but how does their toe bolt compare? by all accounts, everything slips
I've also read that if i can find springs that keep it at or under .8 of an inch, then i don't need all this, but i've no idea what springs only drop it that far (other than unobtanium Nismos)
Unless i get expensive coil overs, i can't control that drop and i can't use the rods that guy makes

Trav - Yeah, i'm not familiar with either brand, but how does their toe bolt compare? by all accounts, everything slips
From the start of the article, it looks like i need the front camber arm otherwise i'll have poor tyre wear.
I've also read that if i can find springs that keep it at or under .8 of an inch, then i don't need all this, but i've no idea what springs only drop it that far (other than unobtanium Nismos)
I've also read that if i can find springs that keep it at or under .8 of an inch, then i don't need all this, but i've no idea what springs only drop it that far (other than unobtanium Nismos)
You can just get the lockout washers for the toe bolt. They are designed to eliminate the slip of the eccentric washer by replacing it. For springs, there are several that offer less than an inch drop. ARK, Swift Spec-R, RSR, etc.
The Tein S-Techs look interesting. I think the H-techs would be a reasonable choice if your stock springs were shot.
As a side note, i'd like to confirm what i currently have on the car, it does seem to be about a half inch drop all the way round, but that could be just just 70k mile sag?
Do we know what stickers/branding is on the stock stuff?
Allstar, i thought the lockout bolts could only be used with adjustable arms?
As for the <1inch drop springs, i know Tein are good, how are the others rated?
As a side note, i'd like to confirm what i currently have on the car, it does seem to be about a half inch drop all the way round, but that could be just just 70k mile sag?
Do we know what stickers/branding is on the stock stuff?
Allstar, i thought the lockout bolts could only be used with adjustable arms?
As for the <1inch drop springs, i know Tein are good, how are the others rated?
From the start of the article, it looks like i need the front camber arm otherwise i'll have poor tyre wear.
I've also read that if i can find springs that keep it at or under .8 of an inch, then i don't need all this, but i've no idea what springs only drop it that far (other than unobtanium Nismos)
Unless i get expensive coil overs, i can't control that drop and i can't use the rods that guy makes
Trav - Yeah, i'm not familiar with either brand, but how does their toe bolt compare? by all accounts, everything slips
I've also read that if i can find springs that keep it at or under .8 of an inch, then i don't need all this, but i've no idea what springs only drop it that far (other than unobtanium Nismos)
Unless i get expensive coil overs, i can't control that drop and i can't use the rods that guy makes

Trav - Yeah, i'm not familiar with either brand, but how does their toe bolt compare? by all accounts, everything slips

I'm sorry, I misspoke. You're correct, you want lockout washers with adjustable toe arms. You want the SPC toe bolts with factory spring bucket. It gives you more room for adjustment. What do you mean by the SPC bolt being "crap and slips"?
I was referring to the OP's comments a little way after the lowering spring section. It seems he was having a lot of trouble and came to the conclusion that the stock bolt and even more so, the 3 degree bolts, slip when pushed hard enough.
1) Less than an 1.5" drop, you are probably okay without front camber arms. Less than 0.75" rear, you are probably okay also. Any more and you'll want rear camber arms. What I did was lower my Z and get an alignment. When the rear couldn't be aligned within specs, I purchased rear camber arms and installed a couple weeks later and got realigned.
2) http://www.350zhatchshocksandmore.co...%20Washers.htm
2) http://www.350zhatchshocksandmore.co...%20Washers.htm
If you run canyons , play , auto cross or road course, just fine. If you drive to work and back, I would get front arms.
my rear toe seems to always move around after 6-10 months of driving. is there anyway i can lock it in place without purchasing the SPL midlinks with lockout bolts? is there a cheaper option? my rear right now is with the SPC rear camber arm
do you have lockout washers? that should keep toe in place. you dont need toe arms or midlink to prevent toe from slipping
Ok so to be clear, youre saying no toe arm and no midlink is needed, just throw some lockout washers on the spring bucket. Sure it wont slip, but I am very curious as to how you do your alignments.







