Hmm........I plan on about a 1" drop for my front so I might be able to stick with my stock arms. I'm definitely getting rear arms bc my stocks are already cambered and its stock ! And also my adjusters on the rear are maxed out positive.

 

How much is your life worth to you?

 

I'm about to order SPL outer tie rods.. should I order better inners or are the OEMS ones still ok to use with the SPL outers? Thanks in advance. I searched a bit but didnt find anything.

 

OEM ones work fine

 

^ ya, oem ones. tien inners are physically identical to oem inners but only a few threads longer where it attaches to the rack, so for you its a waste of money, since your buying the SPL outters. the spl tie rod comes with the steering angle spacer you install on the inner tie rod.

spl sold me this alone once as well. its simply a 5mm spacer, and i talk about this in my drifting 101 thread.

Purchase the spl tie rods (which is only the outter portion of the 350z two part tie rod configuration) and install on the OEM inners and done.


-J

 

I couldnt sleep tonight and started thinking about springs rates. Could you get the same handling characteristics as stock with a stiffer spring? For instance, the stock(revised) spring rates have a 30lbs/inch difference after taking motion ratio into account(145f & 175r) Is it safe to assume that if i use a higher spring rate but have the same difference in wheel rates, the car will have the same driving characteristics as stock? just with less roll?

 

your talking about ratio'ing out your new stiffer rates to match the ratio in what stock has...a decent start but your still end up with a stiffer rate and the cars weight didnt change, so the handling wont be identical.

Stiffer rate means in simple terms it takes more hit to activate the spring....as in 750#/in spring rate results in it taking 750 pounds to squeeze/compress that spring 1 inch in length...

so you will end up with a stiffer ride yes..

roll has more to do with dampening and the rate of return on the suspension and sway bars used to counter that...

slapping good sway bars set to stiff on a stock 350z does ALOT in my opinion alone in eliminating roll.

now go to bed....
-J

 

My 05Z has stock suspension. I added 20mm spacer up front, and a 25mm spacer out back. I am running the stock 18 inch wheels.

I noticed that my rear tires are starting to bald on the inside( signaling camber issue) and the fronts a weeee little bit as well.

From reading this article I gathered that the Z has no front and rear camber adjustment with stock arms, and in order to do so, I must purchase front and rear camber arms.

(correction, It has no front camber, and rear is adjusted via the offset bolt)

I am guessing that I would need to get a camber arm for the front to fix the issue, NOW is the stock offset bolt in the back enough to adjust the camber issue that I am having by adding spacers in the back? or would I probably require camber arms in the back as well as the front?

Is my deduction correct? if yes or no what would you recommend?

Thank you

(ps, I am re reading this in case I missed something)

 

Inside wear is normally from camber but....... It's actually probably toe when dealing with a Z. When a Z has a toe issue it actually wears out the insides. Just get your car aligned, fron camber is fine at stock height, no adjustment needed. Rear can easily be adjusted with the bolts.

 

so even with the spacers, the stock bolts for the rear should fix the issue...I am just wondering why people say that spacers mess with the geometry, and past a 10 mm spacer one needs a camber arm

Here are some Pics: ( KDWs are the fronts ( which you can see are a little bit worn on the inside) and the V4s are the rears, which you can see how they are worn)

soo Camber kit for rear? rear and front? or straight up alignment and no arm



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( THE REARS ))

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They play with the handling geometry, it sets the 'track' wider.

I'm almost 100% certain that it doesn't affect your camber to any noticeable degree.


Also, what the heck are those tyres? offroad tread pattern?!

 

So I should just get the tires, an alignment, and in any case if the tech says to get camber arms then ill get em and re align, sounds good?? Lol yeah bfg kwds, off-road drift edition

 

You should always have the car in good alignment, makes all the difference, so do that first so you can see where you're at.

 

I could have sword the rear alignment got worse with the spacer, but maybe its just me...
I will, I just dont want to pay for an alignment twice ( again IF its needed)
Now I need to find a good place for alignment, I know people have had bad experiences at Firestone and mainstream shops like that. I have heard good things about the alignment factory, so I will see if there is a good place around orlando.

Thanks guys

 

I am taking the car to the Firestone close by ( with a bat handy), given that my car is stock except the spacers, the tech should align the car to factory specs or as close as + camber/ toe he can get to?

 

Pretty much, at least with them, you can have 'unlimited' alignments.

 

I passed by 2 firestones by here....the techs look like they are in highschool...mind you i live 10 min from UCF in orlando.

I found a shop called Performance Race Solutions, they look like they know what they are doing. Lets see how it goes.

 

I've been to this alignment shop twice just to get my rear toe back to OEM spec.
First visit, he had it all out of spec, saw traces of rubber dust-like on my rear fender. I took it back to him the next day.

He was able to get the passenger side toe back to spec but the driver side is still off (it's now at -0.10). My car isnt even slammed, just 1.3-1.5"" dropped approx. Both Toe settings were within the factory spec just a month ago. You guys recon the tech is just a noob? Should I go somewhere else?

 

are you useing the 1.5 degree factory eccentric toe bolts to adjust? or did you buy 3 degree aftermarket eccentric toe bolts and cut the "doctors pill" slot wider?

1.3" drop is alot...if using the factory eccentrics..


if so with aftermarket 3 degree eccentric toe bolts are you standing there watching, ensuring that both sides of the eccentric bolts are "following" each other like i mention early on in the thread...

if they cant get it into spec due to having factory eccentrics, then no its not them, odds are its your drop and not having the 3 degree toe bolts.

-J

 

Correct, I'm on factory eccentrics.

Oh well, I didnt wanna do it but I guess it's time to Dremel the doctor's pill.

I will make sure to watch him and make sure he does it right next time. It's just that I'm not really familiar with suspension alignment stuff so I didn't pay attention much to what he was doing. Now that I've reviewed the whole thread again, I feel a lot more knowledgable LOL. Seriously.

We appreciate your time sharing your knowledge here, Jason. Thanks a lot.