If they are coming loose then they weren't properly torqued to begin with. Tighten them up properly and you'll be good.

 

While mounted to the car or must I take the the shock out to do this?

 

What ft/lbs should they be torqued to? I read somewhere that they should be in between 40-60 ft/lbs but thats quite a difference between the two...

 

whenever u need the torques....refer to the fsm:
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...anual-fsm.html

whenever a torque range is big, its usually because its on a dynamic part, adjustable part, part that flexes or say a bushing. ive seen subframe mount flange ranges be high too, flange flex...etc.....most engine bolts have usually a small range, due to the parts being solid, stiff, and only coefficients of thermal expansion due to heat cycles as the main factor.

-J

 

You should be able to get them tight without removing them from the car. With factory shocks I get them as tight as I can by hand and then hit them with my electric impact.

Like Jason said check the factory service manual. On the other hand, this is one part that I've never really worried about a torque number for. I'm usually a stickler for getting everything at the proper torque setting, but this isn't one that I've worried about.

 

Thanks guys I'll let you know how it goes this weekend!

 

can anyone comment if the SPL rear camber links make any noise? SPL parts are notorious for being noisy and I want to know if these are as well.

 

Skip a minute or two and I turn the radio off.

SPL camber arms and mid links; I've learned to love the noise.

 

I'll have to listen to it at home (no sound at work), but I'll take it that they aren't quiet.

Thanks to the info

 

Also those are Ohlins coilovers, if there is a better street damper, I couldn't find it. But really the noise is fine, especially if you keep your radio on. With the windows down its ok too.

 

on spl front arms, does the arm have to be removed completely to adjust caster?

 

I have read that Suspension 101 prob about 5 times. I could be missing something. But I am about to order...

Top Speed Pro-1 Coilovers
Eibach rear camber/toe kit

My only question is or add if need to my list... is I read the part about Lockout washers. Do they take place of them Oval egg shaped washers? I make a set of lockout washers but trying to configure what they are for.

I am really trying to understand this. Am I on the right road?

 

No, but you will need to take both pivot bolts out, move the heim jount end(s), then reinstall bolts.

 

you use lockout washers when you are no longer using the OEM eccentric bolts for adjustment... get it?

soo if you're installing camber arms... you remove the oem bolts and use lockout bolts... all adjustment is on the new arm now.

new toe bolts just replace the oem ones.

/thread lock

 

so this requires the coilovers to be loosened as well to access the pivot bolts right? then loosen jam nuts to thread rod end. seems like a lot of work but i dont think i will adjusting caster much just wanted to know if there was an easier way.

 

Yes

ya, its not so bad....caster is usually somehting you dont adjust too often...

-J

 

So if your using the lockout washers, how do you adjust the toe? Isn't that what the eccentric washers are for? I understand going to the lockout to prevent slippage. I'm not going to the track, just your occasional street races

 

There are two points per side of the car that OEM factory eccentric bolts are used.
1. The camber arm to subframe mount location AND 2. The toe arm (spring bucket) to subframe mount location. So:.. that means there are a total of 4 oem factory eccentric bolts mounted to the rear aluminum subframe to suspension arm locations....get it? get a flash light, go look!

Toe w true coilovers:
SO, if you purchase true coilovers, and eliminate the use of the oem spring bucket THEN you can purchase toe adjustable arms and use lock out washers at the NEW toe arm to subframe mount location.

Toe with factory suspension, aftermarket lowering springs or aftermarket "oem style" coilovers:
you must use eccentric bolts, either oem or aftermarket SPC or other available 3 degree eccentric bolts.

Camber:
if you purchase any aftermarket camber arm, then you can use a set of lock out washers to eliminate the need of the oem factory eccentric bolt and just the newly purchased aftermarket adjustable camber arm to make all the needed camber adjustments.

get it?

re-read my thread from beginning, get a flash light and look under your car at the same time, print it out, or take your lap top with you....

-J

 

are coilovers on a 350z side specific in the front or rear?

 

Just front and rear