advice on taking off rear dust shield
#1
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advice on taking off rear dust shield
im installing the alliance 8/6 piston bbk and need advice on how to take off the 4 bolts that holds the rear dust shield? its a pretty tite fit to take off from the back side and there is no way to unbolt it from the front. i rather take it off then hack the shield off..
#2
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Not sure there is an "easy" way to get them off. That why most people just cut the lip and leave the flat part behind.
Here's one idea - we just changed the rear bearing on my Z. You're right, the four bolts are hard to get to. Try disconnecting the half-shaft at the diff and the nut from the end of the shaft then pull the shaft inward and remove it that way. That leaves easy access to the four bolts that hold the hub and bearing. Once it comes out that should leave the shield being held by the two bolts from the outside.
Here's one idea - we just changed the rear bearing on my Z. You're right, the four bolts are hard to get to. Try disconnecting the half-shaft at the diff and the nut from the end of the shaft then pull the shaft inward and remove it that way. That leaves easy access to the four bolts that hold the hub and bearing. Once it comes out that should leave the shield being held by the two bolts from the outside.
Last edited by DavesZ#3; 08-15-2010 at 02:54 PM.
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the inner part of the backing plate has to stay there--it has the mounting locations for the parking brake. so i'm not sure how much good unbolting it would be.
good thing is, the backing plate is 2 pieces. the outer one that can be removed is a very simple process that takes about 10 minutes per side. simply air hammer(with a chisel bit) the rivets that attach the two halves together. then cut it in half with a pair of shears, it will then come right out leaving you with the inner half still there and fully operational.
good thing is, the backing plate is 2 pieces. the outer one that can be removed is a very simple process that takes about 10 minutes per side. simply air hammer(with a chisel bit) the rivets that attach the two halves together. then cut it in half with a pair of shears, it will then come right out leaving you with the inner half still there and fully operational.
Last edited by bimmertech; 08-15-2010 at 04:29 PM.
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hmmm. interesting.
What about the front ones. Is there any danger in completely removing the front dust shields? I know it's sandwiched between the hub/bearing, and hub assembly, so i'm just wondering if it acts like a shim of some sort aswell.
What about the front ones. Is there any danger in completely removing the front dust shields? I know it's sandwiched between the hub/bearing, and hub assembly, so i'm just wondering if it acts like a shim of some sort aswell.
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actually, i didnt find this hard at all, I removed the axle from the diff, removed the cotter pin and big nut from the hub and completely removed the axle from the car, from there, the 4 bolts (17mm hex) are easy to get to with extensions and deep sockets, etc..
I have been working on this for a while now on my spare time, looking at doing a 2nd caliper mount for hydro ebrake system separate from the existing brake system..
yeah, i agree with separating the two plates for the ebrake mounts.
fronts, i haven't played with...
-J
I have been working on this for a while now on my spare time, looking at doing a 2nd caliper mount for hydro ebrake system separate from the existing brake system..
yeah, i agree with separating the two plates for the ebrake mounts.
fronts, i haven't played with...
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 08-18-2010 at 03:47 AM.
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you could remove the front shield then cut out the remaining parts of it that are not between the wheel bearing and spindle.
i have not removed the front shield yet as it is not in the way. although i am doing brake ducts this winter so i am sure i will have to do something.
i have not removed the front shield yet as it is not in the way. although i am doing brake ducts this winter so i am sure i will have to do something.
#9
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the inner part of the backing plate has to stay there--it has the mounting locations for the parking brake. so i'm not sure how much good unbolting it would be.
good thing is, the backing plate is 2 pieces. the outer one that can be removed is a very simple process that takes about 10 minutes per side. simply air hammer(with a chisel bit) the rivets that attach the two halves together. then cut it in half with a pair of shears, it will then come right out leaving you with the inner half still there and fully operational.
good thing is, the backing plate is 2 pieces. the outer one that can be removed is a very simple process that takes about 10 minutes per side. simply air hammer(with a chisel bit) the rivets that attach the two halves together. then cut it in half with a pair of shears, it will then come right out leaving you with the inner half still there and fully operational.
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that would be pretty trick.. i thought about what this would take before, to mount a small disc brake on the diff side for the ebrake, and then remove the hub mounted ebrake... is there enough room between the inner cv and the subframe for a rotor there?
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