Resolute

iTrader: (2)

The Timken Load Test is so archaic and pointless, unless you're marketing additives like the ones "seen on TV"

article excerpt from Lubes n' Greases Magazine:
In their paper, "The Timken Lubricant Test - 1932 to 1972", presented at the 40th annual meeting of the National
Lubricating Grease Institute, D.V. Culp and J.E. Leiser of the Timken Company reviewed the application and
significance of the OK Load Test with EP lubricants.

Two items discussed in the paper are of particular interest. The hypothesis that gear oils which have higher Timken OK values will provide better scoring protection for gears and bearings was developed in the early 1930's.
Recent developments in the chemical aspects of EP additives indicate that this is no longer true. In fact, it now appears that many of the more modern type chemical additives, particularly those successfully being used in the MIL-L-2105B type oils, have shown improved performance in preventing scoring in high temperature gear and bearing applications although they show a very decreased Timken load as compared to the leaded type or SCL type gear oils.

The authors also point out the lack of a direct across-the-board correlation between high Timken EP values and increased performance characteristics. It also appears that there is little correlation between Timken test results
and other EP tests results, such as the Falex, the four-Ball tester and the more recently used FZG gear type tester.

The significance of the observations made by the Timken Company concerning the limitations of the OK Load test in predicting actual performance of EP oils should be recognized when making a product recommendation. A proven record of satisfactory performance in similar applications is of greater importance in recommending a product than merely selecting one whose Timken OK Load Test rating meets the specification. Documentation of actual successful performance of EP oils is still the most valid way to support the claim that an oil will provide the
required protection of gears and bearings.

According to the Society of Tribologists and Lubrication Engineers, the Timken test is "questionable for use in evaluating levels of EP".

EP means Extreme Pressure btw. The standard in place is to use the Timken Load test to simply verify that EP additives are in the oil, not measure the oil's abilities to protect, hence why it isn't made or used by Timken anymore. Again, if you really wnat to know how well an oil is working in your VQ, get a UOA done.
Will
EDIT: wanted to say this was quoted directly from a Whitmore Technical Bulletin, as reported in Lubes n' Greases.

t1m1t

iTrader: (2)

after reading the 12 pages of this thread, i am now confused as to what to get ?? i was going to go with GC, but now i hear it is being pulled from store shelves. for a daily driver, what sythetic oil would be recommended?

roro

GC 0W30, Amsoil TSO 0W30, Pennzoil Platinum 5W30

eeZee

I just bought my Z with 10k miles and had the dealer change oil with regular dino 5w30.
I want to buy a bottle to have around to top up if needed especially since I plan on a few track days. I have an 06 and heard that synthetic leads to oil consumption, so I'm planning to stick with regular oil. So far, all I've read talks about synthetic recommendations.

Can someone recommend a good 5w30 regular non-synthetic oil?

Thanks!

lightner22

iTrader: (1)

If you let the dealership change it then it doesn't matter what you top it off with. Dealerships use whatever they get cheapest...this week it may be quaker state and next week valvoline. If you are worried about using quality oil its time to learn to change it on your own.
For dino oil you're fine with Valvoline, Quaker State, Castrol, Pennsoil etc. They are all relatively the same. I used Valvoline to break in my R6 for the first 5000 miles with no problems. I use whatever I have left over to top off my patrol cruiser between maintenances but it really doesn't matter in that.

Bevo

Castrol GTX is not a bad choice from what i've seen

Snow-G

iTrader: (1)

so now that Im dazed and confused as well...what dhould I fill my G with?

TT application. No winter driving.

Biochem7

iTrader: (8)

not bad at all.

merlin3

iTrader: (4)

just switched to amsoil tso 0w30, we'll see how it does

Akabir47

iTrader: (16)

just got a new z was thinking of puting M1 in but not any more thanx. you say auto zone has german syntec?

lightner22

iTrader: (1)

Did you read the thread past the first page? German Castrol is being pulled from the shelves and I have yet to see conclusive proof from anyone that Mobil1 changed anything about their formula. As I stated several pages ago, I heard this rumour somewhere around 2001-2002 I believe, and it wasn't substantiated then either. There have, however, been multiple independant test results showing that Mobil1 works well is our cars. Do your research and make up your own mind, stop treating internet rumour as if it is fact. I'm at 9,200 on Mobil1 with 800 miles to go before I change it and send it for another analysis...and I'm not worried about what they will find because at 7,500 it looked better than the average 3,500 mile oil analysis and they recommended I go to at least 8,500.

Can we un-sticky this thread now? It has run it's course and at this point is just giving people incomplete, or just plain bad, information and unfounded speculation. I'm sure it started as a well intended PSA, but after all these pages the original claims still haven't been substantiated as far as I can tell.

DRIFTU

iTrader: (1)

I just baught some royal purple and gonna dump that **** in and see how it works. I dont know what to think is best/good/bad anymore.

PhiSig

iTrader: (36)

Here here, I'm more confused than ever, my new Z came with M1 in her already and would like to continue to use another Syn oil -- IDEAS?????

ARMSTRONGARMS

iTrader: (65)

try amsoil tso 0w-30 the people that have tried it, including myself like it. royal purple seemed to burn off and be thin? one of my friends should be sending another blackstone lab on it here fairly shortley.

LG_z33

blah blah blah blah blah..while you guys are worrying about your oil, ill be smoking your *** at the track.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Amen. Second the notion to un-sticky this thing.
Will

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

That's why getting your oil tested is so good. Then you know what works the best. There is a whole sticky below this one fille with quantifiable, objective data on a number of engine oils. Check it out. Some have performed much better than others.

Same as I said above. There are a number of good oils to use, and some not worth the money. Check out the analysis sticky and see what has held up well and what has not. Mobil 1 0W-40 is one of the best so far, and is a full PAO based, group 4 synthetic. So is Amsoil 0W-30. There are others, just look at the thread.
Will

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Is his car using a VQ35 engine? If so, have him post his results in the analysis sticky in this forum. I only have two UOA's done on RP nd they suck. Literally the worst performing oil in the VQ to date. I was waiting to post the data until I was sure it was not an anomoly, but everything I have seen from other cars validates the results from the VQ35. So, I'll post it shortly in that thread. If your friend can post his UOA, then I'll add it to the average and we can have a good picture of this oil's ability to hold up. In the two tests I have had sent to me, both had the oil sheared down to a 20 weight with high acid build-up and mediocre wear.
Will
edit: I have a RP UOA that doesn't suck, so the 5W-30 UOA sent to me my be an anomaly and not indicative of the oil. Just check the oil analysis thread for details.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Alright, while I have little oubt that most of M1's are some PAO blend (and therefore a G3+ oil) there is a ton of data, and proof, of the 0W-xx oils being a full PAO G4 oil. The 0W-40 is a great oil, but this is an unexpected find. One of the BITOG members was browsing around the pits this last weekend for the Indy 500. He saw this and snapped a photo. FWIW, Mobil does not sponsor this car. The thread is here:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...rue#Post899248

Edit: in the thread there is another pic, and if you look in the background you can see several bottle of M1 gear lube on the shelf in the corner. Interesting.

shushikiary

LOL I like how the guys down the thread immediately try to show it might not be true.... stating that a guy used to take valvoline bottles and fill them with amsoil so the competition didnt know what he was really using... and the one guy "I agree that is a Mobil1 bottle. That is as far as I will go. " lol