03aeroZ

iTrader: (11)

so two questions:
1) is the american 0w-30 castrol still a good synthetic?

2) has anyone done an analysis on the amsoil 0w-30? did it do as well as the castrol stuff?

shushikiary

please reference this thread to answer your questions:

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/258663-vq-oil-analysis-and-info.html

j.arnaldo

Addictive additives?...Whoa...

jonnylaw

iTrader: (3)

$29.99 for 5 quarts of mobil1 0w40 and mobil1 filter at pepboys.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

You had to bump THIS thread? LOL

Will

jonnylaw

iTrader: (3)

Sorry Will, but since I have your attention, do you know if certain kinds of oil contribute/prevent blow-by than others, or is blow-by dictated more by humudity and driving style?

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Blow-by is mostly a product of engine braking. If you have issues with blow-by from mechanical problems, such as improperly seated rings, then changing oils won't help much. Since most oil loss from blow-by occurs as vapor, getting an oil with higher NOACK scores might help. Usually, PAO or Ester base oils and higher weight oils will have higher NOACK scores. If you're using the M1 0W-40, then that's a good oil. M1 turbo diesel 5W-40 would be better, though.

Will

jonnylaw

iTrader: (3)

^^Ok thanks Will. Recently I noticed my ccan getting a little more oil/water vaper stuff than usual. Was using Motul 8100 before, but after reading through the UOA thread, I changed to Mobil1 0w40. I'll look into the turbo diesel, though, and a local shop has Amsoil, so I might try that too.

I haven't noticed any substantial oil consumption issues when checking oil levels b/w changes, however, but I will be looking to get a compression check, etc. before going F/I.

TheOtherRob

iTrader: (14)

just changed to mobil 1 0-40 and my engine is starting to shake, rpms are very low, and shakes on the highway. WTF is wrong?

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Hmmm... Did anything else change? I would double check the oil level after a night sitting.

TheOtherRob

iTrader: (14)

I made an update here.

https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...il-change.html

I still have no clue as to why that happened. Hopefully someone can shed some light.

nismo240r

i've been using Mobil 1 5w-30 for the past 10,000km's and i love it. . .the G loves it as well, doesn't burn up a single drop of oil and it's still clean as the day it was dropped in. Just passed 60k km's on it and drove up to Yellowknife, N.W.T., drove back down and entered in 3 drift competitions . . .


I used Royal Purple before this (same weight) and it used up a little oil. . .

I'll be doing an oil sample/particle test this oil change and share the results. . .

chavoush

For those interested, I also just changed over to M1 Euro 0W-40. Walmart sells this for a tad under 6 bucks, autozone sells it for a tad over. I've only found it in quart size.

blackz123

iTrader: (13)

500 miles on rp so far no problems very satisfied might try this gs next but most likely will stay with rp

bswanny

iTrader: (4)

What would you guys recommend for the extreme climate changes in Wisconsin weather (hot summer, cold winters)? Would 0-30W be okay? Thanks

nismo240r

5w-30 all year round. . .it's been driven in the heat and in -65 celcius. . .no problems yet . . .

Patsfan83

iTrader: (2)

You guys are going to kill me for bumping this but

I just switched from Castrol to Mobil 1 apparently it's called full synthetic but in the OP's post says it isn't, but the car runs really well on it, It feels alive but damn it was expensive as hell. $88!

rich2342

iTrader: (3)

Guys were swithching From Mobil 1 to Castrol, why the reverse?

Mobil 1 was shown to somewhat increase wear? Has it been reformulated?

thescreensavers

iTrader: (2)

Neither Syntec (exclude 0W-30) or M1 are synthetic they are highly refined oils.

But Syntec shows much better ware in UOA on the VQ engine then M1.

whoisthis

iTrader: (1)

so to sum it up, Amsoil ATM 5w30, tso 5w30, Castrol 0w30 from Germany, 5w30 European formula, and pennzoil platinum 5w30 are good choices?