Just replaced clutch master cylinder and this happens..
There is some play in the cluctcj pedal! If I drive in traffic it feels great, pressure from the very beginnin. After driving on long stretches of freeway, if I press the clutch down, there is play until I push it down 25% of its maximum travel. Did they put it on right? Or is there air bubbles in the lines?
Also, there is now a whining noise when Im driving. It sounds like the tranny because when I push clutch in it goes away. Ive heard it on other cars but never on my car until after the new master cylinder.
Also, there is now a whining noise when Im driving. It sounds like the tranny because when I push clutch in it goes away. Ive heard it on other cars but never on my car until after the new master cylinder.
Last edited by evolved326; Mar 20, 2007 at 05:23 PM.
There's supposed to be freeplay... I on the other hand think I have a bad clutch master cylinder because I have zero freeplay. I can lift the clutch up with my foot but as soon as I step on the clutch it returns to as high as the clutch stroke returns it. help anyone?
huh?
I dont thing there should be free play. $30,000 306hp sports car and they cant get the clutch to feel the same everytime u step on it? Doesn't sound right.
When I say free play I mean the actual "feel" of pressure on your foot. I dont mean the engagment point.
I dont thing there should be free play. $30,000 306hp sports car and they cant get the clutch to feel the same everytime u step on it? Doesn't sound right.
When I say free play I mean the actual "feel" of pressure on your foot. I dont mean the engagment point.
Originally Posted by Cloud
I just bled the clutch line and confirmed no air in it. Clutch line was replaced with an SS clutch line too.
For you no doubt it sounds like the master cylinder. But what about me?
25% is alot I believe? maybe you could adjust the travel of the pedal and reduce the travel to 10-15mm.
http://www.g35driver.com/forums/show...t+pedal+clutch
here is the DIY
http://www.g35driver.com/forums/show...t+pedal+clutch
here is the DIY
Last edited by Cloud; Mar 20, 2007 at 06:35 PM.
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A Master will either leak or Bypass. A leak is noticable at the seal, a bypass is internal. If u replace the Master,replace the Slave. Just a question of balance.
With a leak, u will lose fluid and/or suck air, same with a worn slave. If all is good, after u bleed and drive a day or so, open the slave bleeder and give it couple taps. In a clutch system, the air will also after awhile find the highest point and excape.
Free play will be minimal till u feel the rod start to push the piston. Over adjustment to increase free pay will cause a "no pedal return" situation if u ride it hard.
With a leak, u will lose fluid and/or suck air, same with a worn slave. If all is good, after u bleed and drive a day or so, open the slave bleeder and give it couple taps. In a clutch system, the air will also after awhile find the highest point and excape.
Free play will be minimal till u feel the rod start to push the piston. Over adjustment to increase free pay will cause a "no pedal return" situation if u ride it hard.
http://edisk.fandm.edu/james.kocher/...by%20Skoda.pdf
this link provides a good explanation but it doesn't seem to help me solve my problems. I'm sure it'll help evolve figure out his problems.
so uhm does the pedal itself have a return spring?
this link provides a good explanation but it doesn't seem to help me solve my problems. I'm sure it'll help evolve figure out his problems.
so uhm does the pedal itself have a return spring?
I wonder if Z's have a clutch line dampener box like 240's. This was a huge problem after changing clutch line parts (i.e. master and slave cylinders) since it was a huge pain to be able to bleed all the air out of that box. So the solutions with 240's was to just bypass the box. The symptoms on my old 240 were the same as you posted, well it was worse, cause when the car heated up the pedal would hit the floor.
Originally Posted by evolved326
Originally Posted by Cloud
so uhm does the pedal itself have a return spring?
If all of the above are in working order, the pedal WANTS to return
Originally Posted by Cloud
http://edisk.fandm.edu/james.kocher/...by%20Skoda.pdf
this link provides a good explanation but it doesn't seem to help me solve my problems. I'm sure it'll help evolve figure out his problems.
so uhm does the pedal itself have a return spring?
this link provides a good explanation but it doesn't seem to help me solve my problems. I'm sure it'll help evolve figure out his problems.
so uhm does the pedal itself have a return spring?
Originally Posted by Eazzzzzzy
And no, it does not. the return of pedal is accomplished by the fact it is 1) under hydraulic pressure,(no air) 2) the master has a spring, 3)the slave has a spring and 4) you have your adjustment set right.
If all of the above are in working order, the pedal WANTS to return
If all of the above are in working order, the pedal WANTS to return
Originally Posted by Cloud
so I understand that its the hydraulics that push the pedal up the entire stroke of the clutch. But I don't think it includes the freeplay? Because if it was included, the freeplay would have equal resistance as the rest of the stroke of the clutch pedal.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch.htm
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