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Just replaced clutch master cylinder and this happens..

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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 05:20 PM
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Default Just replaced clutch master cylinder and this happens..

There is some play in the cluctcj pedal! If I drive in traffic it feels great, pressure from the very beginnin. After driving on long stretches of freeway, if I press the clutch down, there is play until I push it down 25% of its maximum travel. Did they put it on right? Or is there air bubbles in the lines?

Also, there is now a whining noise when Im driving. It sounds like the tranny because when I push clutch in it goes away. Ive heard it on other cars but never on my car until after the new master cylinder.

Last edited by evolved326; Mar 20, 2007 at 05:23 PM.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 05:25 PM
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There's supposed to be freeplay... I on the other hand think I have a bad clutch master cylinder because I have zero freeplay. I can lift the clutch up with my foot but as soon as I step on the clutch it returns to as high as the clutch stroke returns it. help anyone?
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 05:29 PM
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air causes so many issues....if they would just put a well speced reservior in the system it would eliminate it.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 05:29 PM
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huh?

I dont thing there should be free play. $30,000 306hp sports car and they cant get the clutch to feel the same everytime u step on it? Doesn't sound right.

When I say free play I mean the actual "feel" of pressure on your foot. I dont mean the engagment point.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 05:36 PM
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I just bled the clutch line and confirmed no air in it. Clutch line was replaced with an SS clutch line too.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Cloud
I just bled the clutch line and confirmed no air in it. Clutch line was replaced with an SS clutch line too.

For you no doubt it sounds like the master cylinder. But what about me?
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 06:31 PM
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25% is alot I believe? maybe you could adjust the travel of the pedal and reduce the travel to 10-15mm.
http://www.g35driver.com/forums/show...t+pedal+clutch
here is the DIY

Last edited by Cloud; Mar 20, 2007 at 06:35 PM.
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 09:14 AM
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Is this inconsistant feel normal to anyone else or do I have to take it back? Please help.
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 09:33 AM
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A Master will either leak or Bypass. A leak is noticable at the seal, a bypass is internal. If u replace the Master,replace the Slave. Just a question of balance.

With a leak, u will lose fluid and/or suck air, same with a worn slave. If all is good, after u bleed and drive a day or so, open the slave bleeder and give it couple taps. In a clutch system, the air will also after awhile find the highest point and excape.

Free play will be minimal till u feel the rod start to push the piston. Over adjustment to increase free pay will cause a "no pedal return" situation if u ride it hard.
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 10:29 PM
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http://edisk.fandm.edu/james.kocher/...by%20Skoda.pdf
this link provides a good explanation but it doesn't seem to help me solve my problems. I'm sure it'll help evolve figure out his problems.

so uhm does the pedal itself have a return spring?
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 06:11 AM
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I wonder if Z's have a clutch line dampener box like 240's. This was a huge problem after changing clutch line parts (i.e. master and slave cylinders) since it was a huge pain to be able to bleed all the air out of that box. So the solutions with 240's was to just bypass the box. The symptoms on my old 240 were the same as you posted, well it was worse, cause when the car heated up the pedal would hit the floor.
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 06:10 PM
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Update:

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/258178-2007-touring-might-need-new-tranny.html

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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by evolved326
New Tranny ? Although the Clutch Assy. (Flywheel, Disc, Pressure Plate, Master Cyl, Slave Cyl, Throw-out, Fork, Pedal) are part of your drive train- - - - they are separate entitys.
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Cloud

so uhm does the pedal itself have a return spring?
And no, it does not. the return of pedal is accomplished by the fact it is 1) under hydraulic pressure,(no air) 2) the master has a spring, 3)the slave has a spring and 4) you have your adjustment set right.

If all of the above are in working order, the pedal WANTS to return
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Cloud
http://edisk.fandm.edu/james.kocher/...by%20Skoda.pdf
this link provides a good explanation but it doesn't seem to help me solve my problems. I'm sure it'll help evolve figure out his problems.

so uhm does the pedal itself have a return spring?
Thanks for the link. I kinda know how breaks work. I bled my old cars. ( no offence( seriously)) But Im one of those dicks thats expect my 30k purchase to function.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Eazzzzzzy
And no, it does not. the return of pedal is accomplished by the fact it is 1) under hydraulic pressure,(no air) 2) the master has a spring, 3)the slave has a spring and 4) you have your adjustment set right.

If all of the above are in working order, the pedal WANTS to return
so I understand that its the hydraulics that push the pedal up the entire stroke of the clutch. But I don't think it includes the freeplay? Because if it was included, the freeplay would have equal resistance as the rest of the stroke of the clutch pedal.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Cloud
so I understand that its the hydraulics that push the pedal up the entire stroke of the clutch. But I don't think it includes the freeplay? Because if it was included, the freeplay would have equal resistance as the rest of the stroke of the clutch pedal.
Well technically it's the pressure plate fingers pushing on the TOB, pushing on the TOB fork and the hydraulic system is just passing that force along to the pedal. The free play is just the amount of movement in the pedal before the pressure plate is engaged.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch.htm
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