Lakeside

iTrader: (5)

Ran into the same issue when installing the Quaife 13L into my LSD Nismo. Was told I should have bought the open diff Quaife and the Stub axles togo with it! WTF


To me, a product should go in as its designed. I was told they machined my Diff! I will fill out my Quaife Warranty card this week and mail it in. The shop didn't explain the install process to me very well. Hoping this thing stays together. I'd feel alot more comfortable if I knew what exactly was machined and by how much in order to make things come together.

I wasn't going to argue. I just wanted to get home!

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

The differential does not get machined at all, one of your stock output shafts may require it. There is no rhyme or reason to it from what I have found, and Quaife includes the diagram showing exactly how much must be trimmed should it be needed for a particular install. I have a Quaife going into my own car now, and no trimming was needed at all. For what I have found so far, it's the later cars that are the ones that may require it (2006 and up) - not all do, only some.

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Intimazy, did you get the whine fixed from the Quaife install? I'm thinking of moving away from the carbonetics because of whine that presumably results from all the carbon floating around... so don't want to change if I cannot fix the whine! Thanks.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

whining noises are all due to the install, the type of diff is inconsequential

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Yes, setting backlash appropriately is a root cause... except for the Carbonetics, which also seems to wear over time by all reports, particularly without the 3000 km fluid changes! Mine was silent up until May 2010. Was just checking in to make sure nothing similar has popped up with the Quaife.

Z1 Performance

iTrader: (564)

Unfortunately thats part of the territory with a carbon based anything. They really have a very limited application unfortunately, and it's alot more finicky in the maintenance department because of the carbon based disks. That being said, I cannot think of what part of a diff would wear so as to cause whining. Worn clutch disks don't cause whining noises, regardless of their material. Whining across the rpm/load range is typically the result of improper backlash (too loose) and/or improper pinion preload

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Live and learn. I tried to get a Quaife for my VLSD unit back when I was looking but I was under the impression that there were NO real down sides to the Carbonetics and the Quaife was difficult to source.

I will change the ring/pinion and get new bearings and hope I can find a local shop that can shim as specified in the FSM.

INTIMAZY

iTrader: (15)

Whine is ALMOST fixed. You can still tell its a geared car if you drive it back to back. It is, however, much quieter than before. Make sure your shop goes "by the book" when shimming the gears. My issue was with the shop that "felt" the gears were properly meshing when in reality they needed to be a bit tighter.

The Quaife LSD has been fantastic. I know many guys prefer a clutch type diff, but the ability to get on the gas soooo early mid corner due to the helical diff is a feeling thats difficult to describe. Had to retrain myself to get on the gas earlier. Street manners are fantastic as well. No complaints about the diff here, RCDASH. Hope your whine issue resolves.
Do you have SPL diff bushings by any chance?

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

No SPL bushings. Thanks for the response.

island03z

iTrader: (6)

Is there a way to calculate what size shims you need or is this all guess and check? I was installing my quaife today and it was going really well until I measured my backlash and it was zero. I'd really hate to buy an entire assortment like the other guy did. At 14 bucks a piece it would have been better to just pay someone to set it up.

Edit: Also when I spin it by hand from the pinion side it seems like it binds on 3 or 4 teeth. Anyone had this problem?

ian99rt

iTrader: (12)

First off don't worry about the binding when you have no backlash, i'm surprised you can turn it at all. That being said I'll assume you have 0.0000" of backlash in that configuration.

- Did you check for bearing preload of the carrier (differential) bearings, you would have had to do this without the ring gear attached b/c you can't have the pinion gear's preload influencing the measurement. If you did not and its out of spec you will likely get gear noise (too loose) or premature bearing failure (too tight).

So remove the side carrier shims and flip them to opposite sides (hopefully the driverside is thicker than the passenger). Take your backlash measurement there as well, take an average of 3 or 4 points around the ring gear for best results.

Now if you know exactly how thick your shims are (i.e. 2.00 mm & 2.50 mm) you can find the difference in shims and this is equal to how far you diff is shifting left and right when you swapped the shims.

And you also know the difference in backlash, from there you can make an educated guess what shims you need (this also requires your total shim thickness, Shim 1 + Shim 2 is the same when you got your bearing preload correct.

Example: (FSM Backlash tolerance = 0.0039" - 0.0059")

- Shim A = 2.50mm
- Shim B = 2.00mm
- Shim A+B = 4.50mm (bearing preload value)

- Shim A on Driver Side, Shim B on Passenger Side => 0.0000" Backlash

- Shim B on Driver Side, Shim A on Passenger Side => 0.0080" Backlash

There for you know a shift of .50 mm from original position gives you a change of .0080" backlash.

NEW SHIMS CALCULATIONS:

0.50mm / 0.0080" backlash difference = 62.5 mm / 1 inch of backlash movement (this conversion is an example, do not use this # for actual calculations)

- Desired backlash is 0.0045" so..... 0.0045 * 62.5 = .28 mm => .30mm shift needed from original position.

This is not an exact science as the hypoid gear contact surface is not going to give you a linear relation as we're calculating but it should get you in the ball park.

So now you want:

- 2.20mm shim on Driver Side
- 2.30mm shim on Passenger side

This keeps the 4.50mm total shim for bearing preload and has moved the ring gear approximately 0.30mm towards the driverside to get the desired backlash.

That being said I have a decent # of shims laying around b/c when I setup my gears there was a 3 month lead time on the shims.

Hit me up when you know what shims you need I might have them.

island03z

iTrader: (6)

Hey thanks for the info, I measured the shims and ended up shifting it .1MM away from the pinion and the backlash measures at about .003in which is a little tight but I'm going to take a chance on it.

island03z

iTrader: (6)

If any of you have to cut your passenger side shaft like I had to you'll need a chopsaw(think you can rent one from home depot, I just borrowed one) and a metal grinding disc (about $5-$15 at the hardware store). I rigged up a piece of wood to keep it steady and level and it worked great. I cleaned and beveled the sharp edges and it fits in perfect.

wwilde001

iTrader: (11)

This is the best install instructions on the web. Not sure why it isn't bookmarked on the site in the How to section.

http://www.tune2win.com/index.php/di..._installation/

Good Luck.

island03z

iTrader: (6)

VERY NICE! Wish I found that before my install. A few of those tips would have made the install go way smoother.

Voboy

iTrader: (58)

best how to yet! should get stickied in diy section.

island03z

iTrader: (6)

Need an opinion on my contact pattern. Finally got all the specs right. How does the pattern look to you guys?

ian99rt

iTrader: (12)

Given the fact you have not touched the pinion gear setup due to not swapping gears: you're right where you need to be.

If these were brand new gears needing break in then I would probably say try one shim size thinner on the pinion gear to briing thr contact pattern a little more to the center (radially).

for doing the install yourself and doing it RIGHT.

island03z

iTrader: (6)

Cool, thanks for all the help ian, i'll send all the remaining shims back to you.

secwind

iTrader: (8)

Just had my Quaife for VLSD installed and had the same issue with the stubs.
The shop just used the short stub from a open diff they had laying around. Fits perfectly.

No whine or any noise so far.