quaife or carbonetics Limited slip diff????
quaife or carbonetics Limited slip diff????
i'm about to order a Limited slip and FD. i'm torn on which one to order. the quaife or the carbonetics.... i have a 03 with VLSD. i do take it to track days sometimes but street drive also.
can i get some opinions from people that have them.
thanks
can i get some opinions from people that have them.
thanks
hands down, os for sure...
If your a street driver and casual autoX guy then quaiffe will be quite and your gf wont bish...
if your into drifting and track a bit harder then the carbonetics is better suited...
os giken if your wanting the best for a bit more money, which is still nicely street driveable but performs much better by design.
-J
I have the cusco RS in my Z.....track only. Unbearable on the street at 80%. I have a pretty high tolerance for annoyances, but unless it has very fresh fluid it is noisy, clunky, and harsh. That said....I love it on track. My car gets at most 300mi a month on it so it really doesn't bother me.
If I had to choose b/w the two listed.......I'd pick neither. Get the OS. I have their clutch in my car and love it. Their products are well constructed and reliable.
If I had to choose b/w the two listed.......I'd pick neither. Get the OS. I have their clutch in my car and love it. Their products are well constructed and reliable.
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the pupkin has nothing to do with what LSD you can and cannot fit - all the pumpkins are the same
OS into a VLSD (manual) car needs 1 new output shaft
the "right" choice depends on many factors
1. define track use - a few club days a year is, IMHO, not track use. Particularly if you're using purely street tires
2. a car that sees competitive events many times a year, on R comps, etc, is not a street car IMHO
3. budget - pricing varies widely among the choices, and grows if you need to change the output shaft
OS into a VLSD (manual) car needs 1 new output shaft
the "right" choice depends on many factors
1. define track use - a few club days a year is, IMHO, not track use. Particularly if you're using purely street tires
2. a car that sees competitive events many times a year, on R comps, etc, is not a street car IMHO
3. budget - pricing varies widely among the choices, and grows if you need to change the output shaft
Ive had both...I have 2 way Carbonetic LSD in the car now. LOVE IT.. hardly ANY chatter (only on hard slow turns - like in a parking lot) ....not loud at all.. and I love the tire scrubbin.. Awesome for drifting..
FD I have now - 3.9 .....its fun.....
Just traded my quaife for the carbonetic and the Q was awesome for auto-x and held a drift good.. lifetime warranty so you NEVER have to worry about it again.
Really - just depends on what your going to use the car for.
FD I have now - 3.9 .....its fun.....
Just traded my quaife for the carbonetic and the Q was awesome for auto-x and held a drift good.. lifetime warranty so you NEVER have to worry about it again.
Really - just depends on what your going to use the car for.
I've also had both and went the other way. From the Carbonetic LSD to the Quaife. The carbonetic is a PITA to maintain. I got tired of doing 2k mile fluid changes. So I let it go 5k miles and ended up with a horrible gear whine. I think the carbon floating around eats through parts, changing clearances, unless you change the fluid often. I have not found anyone (I know of 3 others at least) that have had a Carbonetic for > 10k miles that has not either (a) developed gear whine or (b) rebuilt the diff with new bearings to get rid of the noise.
From an operational standpoint, they are both outstanding - smooth and effective. The Quaife is maintenance free and if you drive the car more on the street than the track, it's the way to go.
EDIT: It's expensive to change, costing much more than just the price of the diff, so make the right choice the first time around! Good luck.
From an operational standpoint, they are both outstanding - smooth and effective. The Quaife is maintenance free and if you drive the car more on the street than the track, it's the way to go.
EDIT: It's expensive to change, costing much more than just the price of the diff, so make the right choice the first time around! Good luck.
Last edited by rcdash; Mar 22, 2011 at 05:26 AM.
+1, on maintenance, I have carbonetics and I love it, no noise complaints. But I think I big thing you should think about is maintanace. Would you mind changing the diff oil frequently? I don't 
the pupkin has nothing to do with what LSD you can and cannot fit - all the pumpkins are the same
OS into a VLSD (manual) car needs 1 new output shaft
the "right" choice depends on many factors
1. define track use - a few club days a year is, IMHO, not track use. Particularly if you're using purely street tires
2. a car that sees competitive events many times a year, on R comps, etc, is not a street car IMHO
3. budget - pricing varies widely among the choices, and grows if you need to change the output shaft
OS into a VLSD (manual) car needs 1 new output shaft
the "right" choice depends on many factors
1. define track use - a few club days a year is, IMHO, not track use. Particularly if you're using purely street tires
2. a car that sees competitive events many times a year, on R comps, etc, is not a street car IMHO
3. budget - pricing varies widely among the choices, and grows if you need to change the output shaft
thanks
Last edited by 1z33; Mar 22, 2011 at 09:17 PM.
Z1 should be able to answer any questions, i highly suggest talking/ordering from them.
Search under stub shaft and my user name, you will see the pics of the two different stub shafts and how i modded the ones to work. OS may already have a fix for this, Z1 will know.
I never had a Quaife, but I did consider it as I had an open diff. I chose to go with Carbonetics and I love it. I can't say I have anything to weigh it against, but I still love this one.
Everyone beat me to it but +1 on the OS Giken and the Carbonetics requires too much maintenance like mentioned above. Out the two mentioned I would pick the Quaife, I almost bout one myself but opted for the Giken.
Talking on maintenance....I did the following to make diff fluid changes super easy!
I have the Nismo diff set at 2way.....I primarly hit up drift events so its what the doctor ordered! I love it and wouldnt change it for anything!!! Its loud clunky but performs spot on!!
-J
The following was taken from:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...vlsd-cars.html
I actually working on making it easier now......Im doing AN fitting bulkhead breakthrough to the hatch floor so I can easily drain and cap, then just fill from the top side.
See here:
and
I have the Nismo diff set at 2way.....I primarly hit up drift events so its what the doctor ordered! I love it and wouldnt change it for anything!!! Its loud clunky but performs spot on!!
-J
The following was taken from:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...vlsd-cars.html
See here:
At drift events I loose only a few ounces of diff fluid when the diff starts to cook....
The factory Nissan design, the 350z rear diff has a breather hose, but if it gets to hot and pours out fluid the breather hose dumps it into the rear sub frame versus letting it fall on the road or track. The sub frame catches the fluid and there it stays for all the remaining Z years, driver unknowing he lost differential gear fluid..........
Subframe OEM breather line:
Target hard clear plastic water bottle:
I used this bottle because it was clear, hard plastic so it should hold the hot diff fluid and the top nossle design was easy to retro fit a typical barb fitting to attach my hose with little to no modification. It was about $8.99 so its easily replaceable.
Bottle cage mounted:
I have a single exhaust so I removed the oem heat shield. The remaining heat shield bolt studs were hanging down, so i used the drivers side rear stud with a lock washer and nut (M8x1.25), had to drill the water bottle cage hole a little bigger as well. I bought the universal strap water bottle cage at walmart for like $6 bucks. I then simply used a sheet metal self taping screw for the front water bottle cage hole mount location....the opposite side is the spare tire, remove the spare first. I carry no spare, so no biggy for me...one day ill file it down or replace with a nut and bolt but for now I'm good.
To connect the hose, i need to just buy or build a 1/4" to 3/8" barb fitting and run some hose......
REFILL THE DIFF:
I'm not done.....I plan on adding an AN fitting 90 degree elbow fitting to the differential FILL port, then an SS line going up to the rear hatch floor. I plan on drilling a hole and having a diff fill port with a AN fitting cap back there for super simple diff fills inside the car!
I don't need a diff cooler.....I'm not constantly cooking fluid, but my Nismo LSD does get it all going at drift events to loose "some" fluid.....if i was road racing many hot laps, i would most likely be designing a diff cooler, pump and all...
This set up will allow me to monitor (clear bottle) easily, re-fill accordingly, etc....
Thought i would share my progress thus far....
-J
The factory Nissan design, the 350z rear diff has a breather hose, but if it gets to hot and pours out fluid the breather hose dumps it into the rear sub frame versus letting it fall on the road or track. The sub frame catches the fluid and there it stays for all the remaining Z years, driver unknowing he lost differential gear fluid..........
Subframe OEM breather line:
Target hard clear plastic water bottle:
I used this bottle because it was clear, hard plastic so it should hold the hot diff fluid and the top nossle design was easy to retro fit a typical barb fitting to attach my hose with little to no modification. It was about $8.99 so its easily replaceable.
Bottle cage mounted:
I have a single exhaust so I removed the oem heat shield. The remaining heat shield bolt studs were hanging down, so i used the drivers side rear stud with a lock washer and nut (M8x1.25), had to drill the water bottle cage hole a little bigger as well. I bought the universal strap water bottle cage at walmart for like $6 bucks. I then simply used a sheet metal self taping screw for the front water bottle cage hole mount location....the opposite side is the spare tire, remove the spare first. I carry no spare, so no biggy for me...one day ill file it down or replace with a nut and bolt but for now I'm good.
To connect the hose, i need to just buy or build a 1/4" to 3/8" barb fitting and run some hose......
REFILL THE DIFF:
I'm not done.....I plan on adding an AN fitting 90 degree elbow fitting to the differential FILL port, then an SS line going up to the rear hatch floor. I plan on drilling a hole and having a diff fill port with a AN fitting cap back there for super simple diff fills inside the car!
I don't need a diff cooler.....I'm not constantly cooking fluid, but my Nismo LSD does get it all going at drift events to loose "some" fluid.....if i was road racing many hot laps, i would most likely be designing a diff cooler, pump and all...
This set up will allow me to monitor (clear bottle) easily, re-fill accordingly, etc....
Thought i would share my progress thus far....
-J
and
I worked a little today on my Diff fill port:
This is just mocked up....you can see the end on the right isnt crimped....once i determine the length I need ill cut and crimp it.
From left to right on that hose its:
M18x1.5 to AN10
AN10 90 degree crimped to
kevlar hose
AN10 straight fitting - not crimped yet
AN10 blue bulkhead break through and nut
AN10 black CAP
I drilled a pilot hole with a super long drill bit here and then opened it up big from the other side using a step drill bit:
I plan on filling my diff using this inside the hatch:
-J
This is just mocked up....you can see the end on the right isnt crimped....once i determine the length I need ill cut and crimp it.
From left to right on that hose its:
M18x1.5 to AN10
AN10 90 degree crimped to
kevlar hose
AN10 straight fitting - not crimped yet
AN10 blue bulkhead break through and nut
AN10 black CAP
I drilled a pilot hole with a super long drill bit here and then opened it up big from the other side using a step drill bit:
I plan on filling my diff using this inside the hatch:
-J
Actually you need an extra VLSD drivers side shaft. Also the older open diffs use the proper stub shaft, the newer ones use a different one that needs to be replaced or modded.
Z1 should be able to answer any questions, i highly suggest talking/ordering from them.
Search under stub shaft and my user name, you will see the pics of the two different stub shafts and how i modded the ones to work. OS may already have a fix for this, Z1 will know.
Z1 should be able to answer any questions, i highly suggest talking/ordering from them.
Search under stub shaft and my user name, you will see the pics of the two different stub shafts and how i modded the ones to work. OS may already have a fix for this, Z1 will know.
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Bodyboarder81
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Sep 21, 2015 06:23 AM
2003, 350z, carbonetic, carbonetics, check, checking, differential, fluid, forum, limited, lock, nissan, oil, quaife, slip
