Thanks For the help Max Hax

 

Hello folks!

I am sorry I have been away for what seems like a long time. I have been ballz to the wallz busy. It seems I have been having some troubles getting onto my350z; long load times, posts not posting, etc. I dunno.

Once again, I have to thank everyone for their positive comments and support. As we say here in N’awlins – Y’all are allright!

A couple of issues…

1. I have reconfigured the kit for the right-hand drive people down under.

2. With the help of some G35 enthusiast, I have added an optional 7th wire grounding the automatic transmission. Some people claim it smooth the shifting. (???)

3. The connection points of the grounding kit have been determined by Nissan! The engine was configured to accept the grounding kit as an aftermarket enhancement, hence the JDM Earthing Kit. I’m confident Nissan did their homework.

4. The Blue Stringer wire is a DEAD-ON match for the Daytona. It is the only blue I carry for the Z.

5. Why 4 gauge? ‘Cause it looks good AND ‘cause it does a hell of a lot better job than 8. Sometimes bigger IS better. 2 gauge would be prohibitive.

6. I have not made a generic kit yet. One of my selling points is the custom tailored fit. The only way I can make kits for other cars is to take direct measurements. I can’t take the measurement if I can’t get in front of a particular vehicle. If anybody wants me to make a custom kit for his or her car other than the Z or G, email me, I’ll work with you!!!

7. I HAD NO IDEA! I emailed the guy from Sport Z magazine a few times but I had no idea the article was done and that I was included. w00t!

8. On the burner: working a deal with NissanPerformanceMagazine.com for an article and dyno of MY kit. 350zFrenzy.com is also going to be putting up a review with install photos. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

9. Loctite is not absolutely positively necessary. It just helps secure the screws a little better. SO, you don’t have to over torque and break the screws in order to hold them down. I had to. ;p

10. MaxHax – You are the best! You have been around since the beginning, you always have positive and informative comments to make, and you are an asset to Z community! You da man!

 

Thanks for the update man - especially answering my question with your comments in 3). My car's still running great (thanks in part to your kit) and the kit's looking great.

 

So what are the changes Guy? Just changes to the installation method or to the product?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by insaneamine

4. The Blue Stringer wire is a DEAD-ON match for the Daytona. It is the only blue I carry for the Z.




That's AWESOME!!!

 

Got my grounding kit yesterday
Thanks insaneamine!
The grounding kit's quality is really good!
It comes with all the instruction and a nice CD
Too bad, I cannot feel the difference of the kit because my ECU is on the way to Japan now...

How much does it cost to order the 7th wire for grounding my automatic ??

 

How much does it cost to order the 7th wire for grounding my automatic ?? [/B][/QUOTE]

I'm sorry if this is a dumb question but I thought the 7th wire is for the G35 auto. Is this also for the Z auto???

 

You only need 5 wires on the Z, the 6th is an unecassary option that hasn't proven to do anything enhancing.

If you have the 5 wire kit there shouldn't be a need to upgrade, I asked Guy all this when the 6th wire was announced and he gave me straight answers as usual and saved me money.

The new Z kits may be coming with 6 wires now, not sure on that (can't hurt but I think if that was the case the price would have increased?)

Haven't heard of a 7th wire on the Z.

Hope This Helps.

BTW, Here is how I did my 5th wire

 

Hi, MaxHax
Thanks for the information,

 

Hi guys, here is an important question, that might have already been mentioned, but are you removing some paint on the surface to where the cables are bolted to the car's body? If ppl are just bolting them onto a painted surface... your not grounding anything.

 

Where would this procedure be necassary in the pics that have been outlined for almost 30 pages?

The factory ground remains, I am the only one who extended it to a different place and it is grounded properly for my application.

It's the manifold to the factory ground and the battery, where does paint become involved?

And where is my money from you stealing my power Mr. Enron Exec?

 

the bolts holding them in place make direct contact and are not painted.

 

Ohhh... ok, thanx guys. I guess i need to spend more time under the hood of my car. Its just that there are too many of my former employees outside ready to pelt me with stones.

 

I just got an email from an unhappy person who broke a bolt while trying to install the grounding kit.

He wanted me to warn you about my “cheap” hardware.

The only warning I can provide is to LIGHTEN UP ON THAT STRONG ARM!

I use only 8.8 grade steel M6 bolts.

Here are a few specifications, I hope they are of some help.

Grade - 8
Medium Carbon Alloy Steel, Quenched and Tempered. Has greater tensile strength than a Grade-5. Designed for use in high stress applications.

Strength Grade / Tensile Grade / Yield Grade

4.6 / 400 MPa / 240 MPa
5.8 / 500 MPa / 400 MPa
6.8 / 600 MPa / 480 MPa
8.8 / 800 MPa / 640 MPa <----


Metric (DIN) Standard / Metric Class 8.8 Torque (ft. x lb.)

M4 x .70 / 1.65
M5 x.80 / 4.13
M6 x 1.00 / 7.13 <---
M7 x 1.00 / 11.63
M8 x 1.00 / 18.38

I do understand the frustration here. However, I am not using cheap materials.

The lock washers and the suggestion to use Loctite are there for a reason. Only a snug fit is necessary on the bolts.

 

Just a note of thanks Guy,

I'm a bolt breaker on my first kit most of us spoke up that we over torqued.

Nothing cheap about the kit. It's all througout this thread and IIRC even your web page links to this thread so you covered all your bases well.

"Don't hate congratulate."

That's what we say around here!

I'm waiting for my new intake manifold then a brand new set.
New STB etc should look sweet!

 

I havent bought a grounding kit from insaneamine, but according to the parts he listed, I agree that he is using very high quality hardware.

Im a wireman and work with these parts on a daily basis. Grade 8 bolts are for high stress applications such as in automobiles. If you go to hardware stores like Loews, Home Depot, or Builders Square, you are much more likely to find common low grade bolts ranging from 1 to 5.

The ppl breaking bolts are OVER TORQUING THEM and are probably not the most mechanically inclinded.

 

I got my Kit from Insaneanime Thursday, thanks for the very quick shipment
Unfortunately, as I was installing it today, the head of the bolt for cable #4 broke off
I applied the same force as on the other ones, I have no clue why this one broke off ? So for now I drive around with only 4 out of 5 cables.
BTW, even with only 4 cables the Idle is much smoother !!
I'm not a mechanic, so does anyone have a tip on how to get the thread out, I've tried drilling a small hole and using one of those points to get old screws out, but it just makes the hole bigger, and I don't want to make more damage than I've already done !

Thanks,

Marc.

 

switch grounding points to an alternate location.

Go way back to page two and start reading from there. No need to run one wire short.

I did the same thing and like to think that my new location was better and gave me .5HP more than others

Welcome to I broke a bolt club, Post the magic word to join our secret club and recieve you entry gift.

At the last meeting there were over 10 of us

 

Thanks MaxHat !!!!

I didn't even think of trying another spot, the one that broke is on the passanger side of the intake manifold, what other place would you recommend? I don't see anything in the instructions about an alternate placement??
I have to wait a bit before i can do it, just went for a ride, engine's pretty hot

Marc.

 

This is weird. Why are so many ppl breaking bolts? Maybe the company making the bolts have a QC problem?

My guess is you guys lift weights and eat Wheaties.

My suggestion is to use a torque wrench and be conservative or use a dab of conductive grease.