Looks good.

 

That manifold is gonna sound so BEAST!

Keep it up graff!

 

graffkid where did you buy the 2jz from

 

Thanks

Well I bought the Engine, Trans, and some of the bottom end from a guy off of Supra Forums. Drove 20 hours to pick everything from him and dropped them off at Titan. Any specific reason you ask? I'm sure any "JDM Engine" place can get it. It's hard to get the 2JZ-GTE with the Getrag. Some places have a waiting list and or sell out instantly when they get their 1 or 2 in.

 

Love this build bro.. so many quality parts love it all.. have fun..

 

Thanks man. Appreciate it

 

SSR Professor SP3s! When will they be mounted? What sizing did you go with?

 

It has been a while since this thread has been updated. Anything new?

 

I can mount them at anytime to fit them. I'm just waiting until the car is done before I throw them on. Specs should be in OP but 19x10 and 19x11.5.

Ordered some parts from Toyota which they didn't have 2-3 of them so I am waiting for them to come in. Hopefully have by Friday as I plan to actually work on the car this weekend. As long as the parts come in I will put the engine in, bolt up the intake, and turbo manifold and hope it fits as well as measuring up a trans mount.

I talked to Tweak'd Performance on Thursday about a Mil-Spec Harness and so far things are going well. This weekend I will be taking some measurements for them for the "quick disconnect" position/location.

I am also having them make me a "sub harness" that will give me enough power/ground wires with connectors so I can make any gauges/monitors a direct plug in instead of cutting/splicing the body harness. I am going to mount the connectors to an aluminum sheet that will be bolted where the passenger air bag used to be. Will keep all of the wires hidden and neat giving me no headaches if I ever have to pull the center console apart or something doesn't work and I need to check it.

I picked up a CRV that I have to fix(should be a simple and easy fix) then selling it. With the sale of that I will be buying my harnesses and OS Giken Quad Clutch.

 

How much money would you say you've spent on this project already? Gotta be close to $20 grand.

 

I had the OS Giken Quad Clutch for the VQ. I would only recommend it for a hardcore track car. Its super stiff and really like an on/off switch.

Just like this:

 

The block/head is in the $20k area. I threw some numbers together from prices I remember and rounding things off to make it easier to calculate in my head, it's in the $60,000-65,000 area not including price of the car or what is left to finish it.

Talked to a few Supra owners who have used this clutch said it isn't bad at all. One of the guys drives his 1K+whp Supra in LA traffic to work once in awhile. I've read that for street use and slipping at lights to drive it will last longer than the Tilton. Tilton is a $6k++ clutch and requires regular servicing and checking to add shims so you can delay the need of a rebuild of the carbon discs. At this power level there are only so many clutches I can go with: RPS Triple(too many horror stories on older design), OS Giken Quad(Only read good things about this and same price point as RPS), and Tilton Triple(Double the price of the other 2 and can be a pain as far as maintenance goes for street driving and more of a race/drag clutch).

 

Lol. Damn at everything. This is prolly the sickest build on this forum..........ever. I hope my Z is half as bad and fast haha. I'm glad to be doing something as awesome as this. Keeping up mike. You the MAN lol

 

Thank you capitan obvious
Roflmao

Graf have you considered modifying your rear fenders to allow for a taller tire? Like a mini tub? Or did i miss fender modification? Ive been much more interested in the nuclear reactor i mean engine

 

problem with mini tubs is shock and spring mounts as well as sub frame mount. its something im working through now just found motivation to get back into it and start the setup in CAD software for the mini tub/IRS 4 link. you can fit a 28 inch tall tire in the fender wells the lip limits width though needing wider instead of taller and cant move em in very much due to stock shock mount location.

 

Graff you should get this guy to help design your carl

 

haha i wouldnt be able to help much other then send him autodesk 123 files or adobe. alot of my stuff still needs testing which im waiting till i get back to ohio for mainly because i have no room for any more equipment in my apartment, wife would kill me if i put a tig, sheet metal break, bead roller, and a couple presses in the living room.

 

Don't need tubs unless slamming the car? The inner skin of the rear wheel well just need to be either removed or cut and rewelded higher in the arch 2-3 inches can be gaine from this with respect to a proper offset, lowest something +18-22

 

not that simple though rod, the inner "skin" isnt really a skin its part of the vehicle structure as well as part of the shock mount. with the number of spot welds in there and the effort to cut it loose then reweld it it would actually be cheaper to do a cage and tubs. worst case scenario is mounting plates for the shocks and springs welded to the cage but honestly tubs in the rear require a back half and would need all that done regardless of the vehicle. minitubes arnt worth it on this platform since so little is gained but a good bit of height COULD be gained from full size tubs.

if doing it though i honestly think push or pull rod shocks will be a must to move the tires in some, better to do it that way imo then to widen the quarters one way or another.

 

It's not part of the structure ... I already cut it off my car...that the only way you can run fat tires at my height. No need to mess with suspension dynamics.

At stock height and proper offset the Z can handle 335s easy