did you only cut a portion? something is iffy here because the only thing i have changed on my fender wells is eliminating the plastic shield at this point. the "inner skin" is made up of one piece that is welded to the quarter about 3-4 inchs wide and has a lip that is bent up and welded to the structure and a second piece that contains the shock mount and is also bent up at the same location as the other piece and spot welded to the other side of the inner structure and the rear shock tower brace welds to the other side of this second piece. if you cut it out you cant mount the shock and if you raise it you need a spacer or something for the shock mount i even went down and double checked to make triple sure of what i was saying.

your also not going to fit 335 without a fender pull at stock height. i have 305's and only have 2 mm of clearance between the tire and the shock and my tire is flush with the quarter panel. at stock ride height i get a little rub on hard corners enough to leave paint on the edge right where the tread ends, a 335 would be cut up by the quarter without a pull. but getting OT message me rod or mayby text me a pic of what your talking about because i have no idea lol

 

I was referring to the rear wheel well, the front only needs the pinch weld removed. Jerry if you got custom wheels you'll be able to fit anything at stock height like I said. Yea we got off topic sorry OP

 

Lol my typing has been confusing when tryna explain something

 

still not 100% sure what your referring to sent yah a message asking if your referring to the plastic liner thats the only piece ive seen on any Z or G that isnt part of the structure. unless your talking about the quarter panel itself which mayby you are lol. custom wheels wont help, mine are +21 offset and needed 7mm spacers to give me 2mm clearance. even with that deflection under hard corners will be cutting it close. any further in and ill rub the shock on hard corners any further out and ill shread the tire, if i roll the lip ill be able to clear ok but not with anything wider. the 305 r888's are similar to alot of brands 315s though.

going with wider fenders is one way but the extra weight on the outside accelerates suspension component wear and also it makes it harder for the spring and shock to control the wheel both due to a increased length of lever arm one of the big reason tubs have always been popular just not in the import world. moving the wheel in makes it easier on those components but in our case the shock gets in the way then the spring which is one of the reasons im looking to do the push/pull rod. a live rear axle would already require moving that stuff so its easier to do but i wanted to keep the IRS setup.

 

OP/Jerry over to the fat tire thread...when I say custom wheels I mean offsets if you need spacers you might wanna revisit your setup.

 

No worries about the OT.

You're talking about the actual width of the tire when mounted? --Check Bold.

I only ask because for a street tire on the SSRs, I plan on using R888s.

 

I have the 305/18/35r r888 on tsw nurburgring 10.5" wheels, so the offset should be +27, and they definitely rub on stock suspension and no fender roll. Since then though I have cut away my fenders and fitted siebon wide body overs (either +5mm or +10mm can't remember and dgaf lol). I haven't had any issues rubbing
(lol get it, because the car DOESNT F***ING WORK )

Anyway, there are two parts to the rear fender, the outer panel and an inner metal panel. We cut them back a few inches then welded them together and sprayed plenty of primer and top coat to protect from rusting.

 

wow thought i responded to this on my phone mayby i responded to something else haha.

anyway yah they are a bit wider then others at least thats what i found when checking the actual width in inchs vs other 305 tires and they are about 30mm wider then my 285 generals when mounted.

resmarted idk if thats what rod is talking about cutting the quarter panel itself and lifting it so stuff dosnt rub which is pretty common for blisters. but when someone talks to me about the wheel well im thinking of the actual wheel well which is like i described earlier not the quarter panel itself lol

 

I said I was talking about the rear the whole time...the front needs nothing to be done to fit anything, except cut the pinch welding on the frame.

 

rod no ones talking about fronts =P

 

Ah makes sense. I was just thinking graff could use a BIG tire in the back.

 

Yep, he definitely needs a BIG one in the back.

 

Then why were you talking about plastic?

 

My original comment

also seeing how long jerry fights me on what I said lol trolling

 

As usual, big gap of nothing exciting happening. Unfortunately we had some family move in with us for some period of time so it's been extremely hectic at the house with crap literally everywhere. I had parts in a storage room which are now sitting in my room, moving 2 people and a baby into a house that wasn't ready can be a disaster. .

Anyway.

I was able to get some OEM parts from Toyota for the engine for the oil minus the "cooler" since it comes with one factory which is in the $500ish range to buy an OEM one when I can build one that will be superior for around the same price.

I went ahead and ordered the following. Brakes should be in around Jan/Feb, the clutch and fuel should be shipping yesterday-Friday.

Endless R6 / R4 BBK in Anodized Red (Standard is their famous Blue)
- Racing 6 Piston 370x32
- Racing 4 Piston 332x30
- Endless MX72 Pads
- Endless S-Four
- Comes with standard "Slit or Slotted" rotors but they may be changed to the "E-Slit" Rotor.

OS Giken R4C Quad Plate with Floating Hub
- Movement Alteration Kit
- Flywheel Bolt Kit
- OS Giken Alignment tool

FIC 2150 CC Injectors x 6

Weldon 2345-A Fuel Pump
Weldon Dial-A-Flow
Weldon 100 micron Stainless Steel Filters x2 (Before and After)
Weldon Bypass Regulator


This weekend I am hoping to order the rest of the suspension or at least most of it and the Nismo harnesses. I am also waiting for Sean from Titan to get back to me on a custom dual pass radiator with SPAL fans similar to one on his car.(Made at Titan) I have to start taking pictures of things being done to keep this thread going but I have not and will not give up on it. For those that do not know the difference between the R6 and standard 6 caliper is size. The Racing 6 caliper is slightly larger than the standard.

 

Nice man. Looking good. I def gave up

 

Need to get that brake system routed over towards my direction B good to see some pictures of this build at some point haha. Good luck Mike!

 

Haha!!

Thanks man. Know what it is, if I have my phone on me I easily get distracted. So I try to leave anything that can access the internet away from me and just have my out dated iPod play music.

I plan on doing a write up for the guys who want to take out their antenna, so I guess at that time I can snap some pictures.

 

FWIW, 100 micron is WAYYY too big for a post pump filter. might as well not even have one

You will also need a checkvalve otherwise your fuel pressure will drop right back to 0psi after the inital 2second prime.

Best option would be a fuelab 85812 http://fuelab.com/products/race/fuel...r_check_valve/

 

I will look into this, thanks. When these parts were ordered, I talked to Sean at Titan before putting the order in with him, and that's what he said to go with

I'm going to talk to them about it again and if anything, return one of them and swap it.