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Po345 Code

Old Dec 15, 2017 | 05:48 PM
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Default Po345 Code

Hi,
I had a code PO34, come up on my 2005 350z, that is bone stock. I took it to O'Reilys and the code came back as a camshaft position (bank 2) sensor as a possible cause. So I replaced it. That was fun...I re-set the code via instructions on YouTube, both by discoing the battery and doing the "pedal dance". It did reset it,but only for a little bit. When I turned the engine off and turned it back on, the "service engine soon" and other lights (slip, etc) came on.
Do I need to get the code reset at the dealer?
Could this be due to a weak battery?
Any input is appreciated.
Mke
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 06:00 AM
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This code is not likely due to a weak battery. I'd suspect a defective CPS unit, particularly if it's an aftermarket piece. This problem has been encountered before and here's one example you can find with a search:

https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...ht-all-on.html
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 08:08 AM
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Default PO 345 Code

Thanks for the info, but my car is completely stock, no aftermarket accessories at all.
Does anyone know if it will damage the engine if I keep driving it, with this code, until I figure out what it is?
Do I need to reset it everytime I start it to clear out the code or can I just drive it with the "Service engine light" on?
Thanks for any input.
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 02:22 PM
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This particular code will eventually result in a stalled engine. Resetting the diagnostic system is only forestalling this eventuality.
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 03:45 PM
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Thanks for the input.
As I mentioned previously, I replaced the Camshaft sensor on Bank 2, and now my understanding is that I need to clear this code, in order to finish the job.
Does anyone know how to clear a code the right way? I've checked out YouTube, turned the ignition on, waited 3 seconds, pushed down the gas pedal five times, etc...but that didn't work.
I also disconnected the negative cable to the battery, and pressed the accelerator. It clears the code until I turn off my car. When I restart it, the code is back on..
Does anyone know of someone with a code scanner, so I can clear my code?
I called the dealer, they want $150!
Thanks!
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 03:57 PM
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Sure- stop by Colorado and I'll hook you up! Also, clearing a code and having it pop back up means the fault is still being detected. That's why I stated that you may have a defective replacement CPS unit.

Last edited by dkmura; Dec 16, 2017 at 06:39 PM.
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 04:35 PM
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Lol ok....
When you mention, CPS unit, are you referring to a Camshaft Position Sensor?
If so, I already replaced that, are you suggesting the new unit is defective?
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 05:08 PM
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I am a firm believer in replacing sensors with oem.....
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Old Dec 16, 2017 | 05:14 PM
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Roger that, thanks!
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Old Dec 18, 2017 | 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Biggerdaddy
Thanks for the input.
As I mentioned previously, I replaced the Camshaft sensor on Bank 2, and now my understanding is that I need to clear this code, in order to finish the job.
Does anyone know how to clear a code the right way? I've checked out YouTube, turned the ignition on, waited 3 seconds, pushed down the gas pedal five times, etc...but that didn't work.
I also disconnected the negative cable to the battery, and pressed the accelerator. It clears the code until I turn off my car. When I restart it, the code is back on..
Does anyone know of someone with a code scanner, so I can clear my code?
I called the dealer, they want $150!
Thanks!

Yeah, just buy one of these on EBay or go to Advance Auto tell them what you did and ask them to clear the code for you. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Autel-MaxiS...MAAOSwjg1ZjQvk


...and get OEM.
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Old Dec 18, 2017 | 09:52 AM
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Okay I'll check that out.
Thanks for the Info!
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Old Dec 26, 2017 | 12:05 PM
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Well....
After replacing my CPS sensor twice, once with a "cheapo" Standard unit and then next with an OM Hitachi unit that cost more than $90, I am stuck with the same issue. The "service engine" lights keep coming back on.
I called a local mechanic and he said that in many instances, it's not the sensor unit itself, but dirty oil. I was due for an oil change anyway, so I changed my oil, to a 5w-10w, full synthetic, if anybody cares.
I then took it down to the same mechanic, and he cleared the code with his reader for me.
It drove home fine. I turned it off, waited a bit and then turned it back on, the lights were back on. Ahrgggg...
It seems as if no matter what I do, I can't clear this thing.
I even jumped it with my strong truck battery and checked it with my ohmmeter, it read something like 13 volts, so that's not it.
I called the dealer, they want a "mere" $150 to diagnose it and then they will go from there. I can hear their cash register ringing now...
Any suggestions short of taking out a 2nd mortgage to get this thing fixed?
Any help would be appreciated.
I've searched Youtube, most guys said replace the sensor, which I did of course.
BTW it's a completely stock vehicle, no add-ons whatsoever.
Thanks!
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Old Dec 26, 2017 | 02:48 PM
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I'd say it's time to pay the $150 diagnostic fee and let a pro wrench work on it. BTW- compare service prices with Porsche or BMW and then you'll see when a second mortgage is REALLY needed for a car repair! I suspect once you get the solution, the maintenance costs will drop back to nearly zero...
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Old Dec 26, 2017 | 05:35 PM
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You are probably right, time to pay the piper....
My friend has a BMW, I know my costs should be lower.
Thanks for the input!
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