lol its so dusty because i still havent washed it since im trying not to drive it. I also may get some ramps and carefully spray dirt off edges of underside before my derusting i still havent done.

its grey wrapped fully blue, and is peeling at spoiler and mirrors. They had some stupid carbon fiber license plate thing behind the plate i took off and had stick on carbon fiber crap on it peeling i still havent ripped off. its already off the headlights that got glue on it. still looks pretty dope though. I think it would look alot cooler non dusty may wash it tonight or just post it dusty. edit: in all its dust and glory




********NEXT pics from seller before it was lowered on bilstein b12 but had suspension issue and redneck exhaust*****£*

 

That doesn't look nearly as bad as what I thought it would be. We've already beaten the sales price horse to death, so no sense belaboring that point.

I can't tell if it's Silverstone or Chrome Silver. Hopefully that blue wrap isn't hiding anything nasty underneath.

 

Yes they made it look real good showing off the flawless interior, and their nice place of business. it is pretty low mileage and seems to drive straight but maintance wise its a little iffy the more i get into it, and drive and listen and feel it. its silverstone, the area around my plate where carbon fiber cover was shows it great.

youre going to have a field day with this. neck was hurting but wanted to stabilize battery until tomorrow when they work on it...

 

Since you want this thing to have the best parts, noticed hatch is missing most of the plastic trim and tail lights are missing all 6 of the 10mm caps.

 

hmmm, will both of those affect anything? The tailight caps, i notice those holes now.

Just to make sure we are clear on what im after, If it was pink w green rims and a naked cat/human on the hood, i would keep it that way for a long time. Im mainly worried about functionality. Like if either of those things will make it leak water, or have any mechanical affect at all yes i want to change it first

 

Aesthetics only. Should change out the coat hangar wiring on the battery, like yesterday.

 

dont take it to a shop for a battery hold down... go to autozone, get one for about $30

 

Awesome thanks. lol i posted that battery pic for lulz. that was something i did last night in an attempt to stabilize the battery more for 15-30 miles then ill get it fixed. Its actually electrical wire.




I really wish i could do this. Neck is out though, look forward to rest this weekend. Not only do i need the tie down that im not sure is universal, but both cable clamps were loose when tightened atw. A friend drove a screw down the gap in the negative one, to tighten it down and it seems tight. The cable clamps dont look normal, and easy to replace though. Positive one looks broken I can see this being difficult. And unfortunately i scheduled this, and hate calling off appointments. Place has good reviews and is called moore for less, in a more poor area. so maybe it will be cheap. I also may even pay them to diagnose it again. It will be awhile before i take it to the best shop ever, for control arms and specialty alignment.

The last shop i went to is good, but wish they combed over the car better. I mentioned power steering fluid and they kind of shrugged it off, but bill was high. The part the battery cover snaps to with weatherstripping has no screws in it at all. I hear a weird hiss/ringing in certain rpms. I found a service record from june of last year, saying replace tie rod and wheel bearing soon.

Im not sure if i can afford everything already committed to this loan and trans install. But I will def try, and want to get all of its problems exposed, so i can tackle them.

 

$10 at my local auto parts store. 5-10 min job. Tops. Hell, they might even put it in for you.

 

that doesnt seem hard lol. what about my loose clamps? The positive especially looks complicated. This photo i took last night shows it better. The red plastic over positive terminal is loose as well and just laying on there

 

The battery terminals might be the wrong size for the clamps or the clamps might be too big. Either way, you could easily rectify that with some battery shims for a couple bucks.

As for the hissing noise, it could be the aftermarket intake (normal) or a vacuum leak somewhere (not normal).

 

I was thinking maybe wheel bearing because
its somewhat of a hiss, but i hear a ring to it too, and i cant tell if its made by air. But it is only at lower rpms, and i can only hear it when not on throttle but exhaust is loud.


mannnn... i just looked up shims and i think i could do this and save money... I may just have them diagnose it instead and save money on battery. i hope i can find tie down and shims that fit. The positive clamp looks separated, so i may have them change that.

edit: what about the screws for the part the battery cover snaps into?

 

They're called Nissan push clips, or retainer clips, or plastic rivets, or some combination of those. They're super cheap. You can get like a hundred for less than $10. They will inevitably crack or get destroyed/very brittle with age. I've got a box of them for every time I do something and they get destroyed.

 

The red plastic cover is just a snap on cover. The positive clamp under it is attached to the fusible link with a single 12mm bolt. You should be able to handle that.

 

Well, i hope im not wasting your alls breath, because i never cancelled appointment and i guess ill have this shop look at something. I was tempted to tell them not to worry about battery and just diagnose something else, after our chats today. Im still worried about positive terminal being broken and finding replacement thats the right one.

my red plastic piece is more of a lay on not snap on, and is broken in two. Heres what it looks like underneath.





Thanks again heel til i die. im ordering those

 

That positive terminal connection looks fine, just dirty and could use some battery terminal cleaning. If you really want to get a new red positive battery terminal cover cap, it's about $40-$50 for OEM. Frankly, I think you've got bigger issues going on and you could just put some dielectric grease on it for now.

 

ok so i took it to the shop and told them to maybe diagnose the clanking over bumps first and check tie rods instead of battery, i found a service recommendation in car for that. they were cool af and let me get under lift and liked my car. i should have took pics, i was about to but didnt. theres def some rust but my bigger issues are so big, i still didnt get ramps. The dude at shop claimed to have a badass toyota supra and said he tunes a few cars on the side not at shop. sounded pretty sketchy to me. he said he uses "hypertech tunes" and "aem tunes". I told him i thought aem was a standalone system but he said he can tune my stock computer with an aem thing. He quoted me 300-600 dollars for a tune depending on how aggressive. A good shop near me quoted me 1000 plus 100 for arc license on uprev. The reason im worried about tune is it has air intake, exhaust, is about to have y pipe and strt pipe. and it has this weird thing near throttle body im about to take a pic of that dude at shop says takes in more air. It doesnt quite feel real responsive or right and the exhaust does crackle some. That guy was super cool and didnt charge me and weird at same time. He kept recommending azizi p parts? he said they make suspension parts he has on his supra and spacers for tires and stuff? i looked it up and even tho it sounded like a-zzp, i found a company called zzp. They dont really make stuff for 350zs and supras... Dude sounded like he would love to see my car again and still had some knowledge

Anyways he left all the battery stuff to me, i am slightly worried about positive clamp. It was separated in a diff spot than where the bolt is, maybe i can get better pic. He said the suspension problems clanking over bumps in front was from me not having adjustable control arms w the b12 kit. he said something about the ball joints and showed me how all my tires are out of camber. He claimed it would damage my shocks over time. he said i need to take that shiny nut off and find one that fits it and drive it atw down so the positive terminal grounds correctly. You know what size nut to order or get at hardware store? Im going to attempt the battery tie down this weekend wish me luck.

i am in deep. I dont know if i can budget those control arms in for two more months. Im obviously taking care of loan, and have transmission scheduled. Commute just changed from 6 miles to 25 each way.. ohh well..

 

 

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How many does it take to help an electrician replace a couple of simple parts on a car battery?