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i trust you pretty good for some reason, so youre making me wish i got iridiums. However, since that thread was either or, and oem seems good; ill prob keep them. i dont like being a problem customer and returning things.
i got an oem oil dipstick in the mail today to replace my crinkled up one
Platinum NGKs will be fine and likely sufficient for your needs. Of course, lots of other suggestions were sufficient for your needs, but you went high society, so I just thought I'd mention it.
The engineer that created the oil dipstick location and design for our engines needs to have their genitals placed in a thumbscrew which is gradually tightened over the course of the next century.
The engineer that created the oil dipstick location and design for our engines needs to have their genitals placed in a thumbscrew which is gradually tightened over the course of the next century.
Awesome, thanks for the suggestions. Yes even the brand new dipstick i got has one bend in it from storage. Its in much better condition than old one. After all this trans stuff its suspension and baseline maintenance, then brakes tires headers and tune! I may not add anymore air mods other than tomei headers, to match the rest of the exhaust. This air intake may suck in hot air, but im not sure if the gains would be worth it replacing it. A bigger throttle body sounds nice, but im worried about it fitting to my intake, without proper sized tubing. I believe my intake is a 2.5in pipe from measuring diameter w tape.
The bushing labor cost will eat me alive, so this may be kind of a slow progressing thread. I hope after tune and all, that i can save money for other vehicles, or a build on the next engine.
Last edited by luv350sass; Mar 31, 2023 at 05:19 AM.
Everyone will tell you that going all out with all the NA mods is going to be more expensive in net hp gains per dollar as opposed to going FI. Now, with that said, I did not go FI and basically maxed out everything other than headers and I'm NA. I might do headers in the future but it is a lot of work for minimal gains. However, I do all the labor myself and I now have a 2-post lift in my garage, so I'll probably get bored in the future and do them, because why not. I like Tomei and will either go with those or Z1.
There's a great debate of true cold air intakes versus "warm air" intakes, or those where the filter sits in the engine bay. It really seems like splitting hairs to me. If the filter is low enough to stay out of the engine bay, then it's in danger of getting wet in my opinion. You can step up to a 3.5" or 4" intake, but you will most certainly need a tune immediately after install. As far as fitting it to your TB, you just need a compatible coupling.
I did the following "breather mods" and it made just over 269 hp at the wheels on the dyno after the tune.
- conical filter
- velocity stack/venturi ring
- 3.5" admin tuning intake
- 75mm TB
- Z1 angled plenum spacer
- Berk HFCs
- Motordyne Shockwave TDX2
With test or ART pipes and headers, I might be able to squeeze out another 10 or so. I don't really care about numbers, though. My Z is more of a hobby/fun car and just something for me to play with. Might go down that boost rabbit hole when she hits 20 years since NC doesn't require emissions for yearly inspections anymore at that point.
Everyone will tell you that going all out with all the NA mods is going to be more expensive in net hp gains per dollar as opposed to going FI. Now, with that said, I did not go FI and basically maxed out everything other than headers and I'm NA. I might do headers in the future but it is a lot of work for minimal gains. However, I do all the labor myself and I now have a 2-post lift in my garage, so I'll probably get bored in the future and do them, because why not. I like Tomei and will either go with those or Z1.
There's a great debate of true cold air intakes versus "warm air" intakes, or those where the filter sits in the engine bay. It really seems like splitting hairs to me. If the filter is low enough to stay out of the engine bay, then it's in danger of getting wet in my opinion. You can step up to a 3.5" or 4" intake, but you will most certainly need a tune immediately after install. As far as fitting it to your TB, you just need a compatible coupling.
I did the following "breather mods" and it made just over 269 hp at the wheels on the dyno after the tune.
- conical filter
- velocity stack/venturi ring
- 3.5" admin tuning intake
- 75mm TB
- Z1 angled plenum spacer
- Berk HFCs
- Motordyne Shockwave TDX2
Originally Posted by i8acobra
I was able to make 281 whp NA with my '06 Rev-Up. That was with every possible bolt-on. I was about to do cams, but traded for a Mustang instead.
Originally Posted by Heel Til I Die
With test or ART pipes and headers, I might be able to squeeze out another 10 or so. I don't really care about numbers, though. My Z is more of a hobby/fun car and just something for me to play with. Might go down that boost rabbit hole when she hits 20 years since NC doesn't require emissions for yearly inspections anymore at that point.
Or just buy that R34 with everyone else
You guys are missing out on the most obvious NA improvement.
Man those numbers are kind of depressing. I was thinking with full boltons and tune, the rev up would make over 3 barely to the wheels, and regular de just a little less than 3. i guess it was that o2 downpipe but i got good improvements on evo with bolt-ons and tune. I knew i didnt change intake, but was forgetting something. I also had to replace clutch and clutch master cylinder, because it couldnt handle it.
I guess for public roadway, i dont need way too much power without a rollcage. may just be tempting and dangerous.
Im reading on that velocity stack and plenum spacer
Last edited by luv350sass; Mar 31, 2023 at 08:03 AM.
Man those numbers are kind of depressing. I was thinking with full boltons and tune, the rev up would make over 3 barely to the wheels, and regular de just a little less than 3. i guess it was that o2 downpipe but i got good improvements on evo with bolt-ons and tune. I knew i didnt change intake, but was forgetting something. I also had to replace clutch and clutch master cylinder, because it couldnt handle it.
I guess for public roadway, i dont need way too much power without a rollcage. may just be tempting and dangerous.
Im reading on that velocity stack and plenum spacer
You're not getting to 300 with "full bolt-ons" on a DE unless you're getting cams.
Get a rear diff with 3.69 or 3.9 final drive and be done with it. Best bang for buck to improve acceleration, becuz mechanical torque multiplier. FI if you want over 300, NA on a DE is a lost cause.
Get a rear diff with 3.69 or 3.9 final drive and be done with it. Best bang for buck to improve acceleration, becuz mechanical torque multiplier. FI if you want over 300, NA on a DE is a lost cause.
Okay cool. i assume it will affect a tune, so ill do it before tune. i still may wait and do brakes and everything first. I did just service my diff.
i dont want to boost it. i just want everything i can milk out of it without spending way too much for 2hp. My engine is only 80k miles, but i still wanted to have a different one built, far down the road if i make it. maybe boost after all of that. By that time ill probably have the whole audio system stripped out for weight, etc. I hope i make it to that second engine, and want someone good to build it. Maybe i should travel for that.
