Terribo, just terribo.

Butt logical.

 

I hope OP got his test pipes from The Great Cornholio.

 

cool thanks. arent those the bungs in pic? I dont think i need to buy anything lol but loading it up to go drop car off now. will talk to shop about it too. If they cant figure it out, i guess ill throw codes until i can figure it out. seems exhaust would leak out those holes unless they were completely plugged. Good to know i dont need tune yet. I did find two plugs in the hardware

 

The bung plugs will go in the top ones o2 sensors in bottom

 

cool thanks. They seem to understand it.

So I really like my shop still, and they have been super cool about doing this wild stuff to my car, being a normal shop. He said hes done so much modifications in the past, theres nothing he cant figure out. They dont do specialty alignment though. I told him i was going to take it to the expensive shop for the suspension since they do the alignment. He said they could install it all much cheaper, and i could take it to expensive shop for specialty alignment. I may do that.

What i was going to say though that made me doubt my shop, was the owner main brain, doesnt suggest tuning! He said that it advances the timing and stuff past what the factory wanted or something. he said its too much and frys the engine quicker. I was hoping i could milk a little more power and make it more reliable too with a tune. He acted like i was asking for trouble if i do the 4 in intake and tune and dumping all that extra fuel in would be bad for fuel pressure regulator, or something lol. cant remember perfectly.

I was hoping if i told the shop that i wanted a middle of the road, slight power increase reliable tune it would help it run better


edit: they told me it would be cheaper to buy different lower control arms than have them push in the bushings

 

A tune puts everything in align.

 

Thats what i thought lol. Im prob talking to the wrong guy when it comes to high performance advice. I really like him though and he knows cars good. Hes an older foreign sounding and looking guy thats had alot of euro cars he modded and stuff. They have alot of happy customers, some with unique cars. Ill still get a tune sometime, and just use them for normal work.

 

The owner is right and wrong. Obviously, Nissan did a good job of maximizing the performance with everything straight from the factory in order to appeal to the largest market. Tuning will change different parameters to account for modifications which will be necessary if you are installing a larger intake. Without tuning, you will be running lean and there will be minimal gains. However, tuning does not cause the engine to "fry quicker" unless you are going full blow stupid and tuning it to shoot flames or "pops and bangs." Then, you most definitely will fry something. It's only a matter of time. A tune on a completely stock Z will even squeeze out a few extra hp/tq.

After installing the 4 inch intake, the Z will be undriveable. I would recommend just taking the intake to the shop that will do the dyno so they can install it at the same time and tune it correctly.

As far as just buying new lower arms - sure that would be cheaper for labor for the shop since they're just removing and replacing, but buying the arms with monoball/spherical bushings already pressed in will cost more to buy than just the bushings themselves.

 

cool, thanks for all the info. I was just randomly thinking, what do you all do for ebrakes? idk if they even make one like i want.

i love the hydraulic handbrakes, but i want to be able to lock it on a hill. I also hate how big they are and easy for passenger to hit or something. It would be nice to have one shaped like stock that was hydraulic and would just pop back, but you could still lock. I obviously will wait a little bit to replace it. right now it works for hills but seems weak. idk if i would trust it on an insanely steep hill

i love this car. other than getting locked inside like a puppy, i couldnt find something i dont like about it. Until a few days ago when i found my id stuck behind the hinge of the center console, outside of the usable tray. I want to do some weight reduction myself maybe. I think first i will try to remove audio, because i dont use it. It has old big removable head unit, and stock speakers. I hate to leave it looking all torn apart at radio though.

 

also i was just randomly thinking, if you were having people build a more official 350z to compete in some kind of actual racing, would you first strip it down and install full roll cage? what would the order of mods kind of look like? I saw that one guy from another country with a thread building one for racing. But he had way too much money and put a diff engine in it, and stripped car fully down did all kinds of stuff lol. I was thinking like a middle ground, not that crazy.

i seriously dont know what ill do over time. 5 years from now i could have more money though, and before that i may try to have two cars one street, one track. i like these zs and even though parts are phasing out theyre not way too expensive. i liked the 240 too, but i lost mine and theyre way too pricey now.

 

Drift? Rally? If not, adjust the e-brake and/or replace the shoes. You don't need/want h-brakes for street use. You also don't want it for track, autocross. And, if you're just casually drifting, you can use the factory e-brake to set the tail. Not advised but that's how I learned waaaay back when. Never wore out anything. It's such a momentary grab that there's not enough time/contact to do much damage. But if you're a pro or at least an advanced drifter/rallyist and do it regularly then that warrants an h-setup.

If you are serious about racing then AFTER driving school (or at least some type of participation), choose the type of track/AX and sanctioning bod(ies). Get the rule book, read it, build car up to the spec allowed for class. The order in which to do things is: Fix what's broke (that is, not truly broken but set up the car in order of priorities). Handling bad? Fix it. Panels falling off? Fix it. And so on. But the very first thing, I already said. RULE BOOK.

Why.... There's the time honored tradition of being classed up. What that means is you've made street modifications that either are not allowed in a stock or slightly hotter prepared class BUT... not enough for the class you're put in to be competitive. So, you need to mind what the rule books say OR be prepared to lay out more dough to be competitive. It's not a bad thing to be a back marker but it sure isn't very good on the ol' ego unless you're mentally prepared for being the Lantern Rouge (last in class). I honestly never minded running mid-latter pack as I did it for getting experience behind the wheel and the pure joy and fun of track driving without worrying greatly about budget. I knew very well that my Datsun could hardly even keep up with the factory-racepak'd Porsches and such. No problem, I'll stay out of the way.

 

im not doing drift or rally, but rally always intrigued me. im not doing anything honestly because im broke af and work all the time lol. but i kinda knew i wouldnt be able to immediately start racing and just wanted a sporty street car again over nothing, I even knew about the whole classing thing even though i have never been to track regularly. It does sound fun, i wouldnt mind to be last. i am kind of serious about racing. i mean i need to stay off the streets, and it should be in my life somehow. i just probably will stay where im at for a min and get a nicer car first or second car. While we are on the topic, were u able to drive to the event ever? any events require full cages which are not street legal, or have cops sitting at the event waiting to see if youre street legal driving in?

as far as the ebrake i mean ive always liked it and burnt up ebrakes before and had to replace. it can turn you around all cool, park you all cool, or drift at a safer lower speed all cool lol. im sure ill be messing around doing some dumb stuff like that somewhere sometime. thats about it for now. I eventually want to road race or rally or something. idk if it will even be this car, but may want atleast an NA build if i do make it this car. Its just annoying you have to hold the button on the ebrake, but def need it to lock for street.

 

I probably should not be encouraging this behavior, but since we have about 7 months until Dugan Day in November, what you're looking for is a spin turn drift **** for the parking brake.

https://cuscousainc.com/products/com...unlocking-type



Installing it will allow you to easily pull up on the handbrake and when you release it, it will go back down without needing to press in the button. When you want to use it as a parking brake, you just flick it out. You just need to take out the OEM button and spring and put this in its place. Get some better brake shoes since you're going to destroy the (likely original) shoes pretty quickly.

 

awesome that exactly what im looking for. You all have been extremely helpful. and dont worry, youre in the clear because i havent been doing illegal stuff in it, and i havent decided forsure what ill do in it lol lol.

still dont understand dugan. looked it up when it was mentioned before, seemed like a troll. you all make him sound like a street menace though

 

dropped some trans fluid by the shop. He was saying he will install my solid shifter support bracket bushings, but it will increase NVH alot. He was trying to talk me out of it.

As of now i have hard urethane diff bushings, hard urethane trans mount, (not installed) streetable motor mounts. But i will be going solid on shifter support bracket bushings, and maybe some of the other suspension bushings. I hope im doing that right. idc about nvh that much.

He also randomly told me something ridiculous and said that im not going to be happy with this lack of power after all these parts im installing. He said that if it was his car, he would put a mild supercharger on it, and if it blows the engine get a new one. instead of keeping it this way and saving for a NA engine build one day in far future. Which ill prob still do

 

Dugan is not just a myth but also an adjective. Be extra cautious of your choices, because Duganism spreads, especially around Thanksgiving. Heed the wise words of Heel.

 

 

I hope will all those solid bushings and mounts, you don't shake/rattle the car apart

It's not really that ridiculous. Even with all the possible NA mods you can install, FI is going to be the best bang for your buck to increase power. As previously mentioned, you're not going to break the mythical 300whp mark staying NA. But, I'm not really sure what a "mild supercharger" is. Should probably just put a Ferrari engine in it.

 

You should be able to break 300 whp though if u actually did an expensive NA engine build. I guess the reason i thought it was ridiculous, is i told him i wanted to possibly build engine further in future when asked about plans. Then he said he would supercharge sooner, and i told him i would want to build some parts of the engine first to make it more reliable. and he seems to think i dont need to build engine or tune ever lol. and thats when he said mild, once i was freaking out about his risky idea. and he said if it blows the engine it does, but atleast id have power.

They are putting the solid shifter bracket bushings in, against their advice. They act like its the buffer between engine/road and cabin. z1 reviews says it improves driver feel with the road, and can help. i was too interested in trying it to say no, plus i didnt have new rubber bushings and thought new ones of some sort would be nice.

 

Adding a supercharger without a tune, huh? That sounds like a GREAT idea. Definitely let him do that.

IIRC, I think the stock block and internals can handle up to about 8 psi safely and still be reliable around 400hp.