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When is the appointment to get the new transmission installed?
I drop it april 14th friday, for them to start working on it the following week. I have the rental car til 20th and hope i dont have to extend it. I am getting all of this done
trans install
aftermarket clutch and aluminum flywheel
z1 urethane trans mount
z1 solid shifter support bracket bushings
irp v3 short shifter
tomei y-pipe
tomei cat straight pipe
i really do plan on finally trying to carefully release pressure and take off my strut bar and engine cover. this weekend. I will post pics.
Dependent on what things look like, i may try to do spark plugs, or other maintenance. (this stop, before suspension). I wanted my coolant flushed. I topped it off with "high mileage add to any make or model premixed coolant". Mainly because it was cheaper, and i plan on flushing it soon. I am getting into a big shop bill. ive been saving for this. That's why my thread is so lifeless lol. Im hoping the straight pipe wont make it run too lean, w no tune yet.
Also, I have vibratechnics motor mounts. Would this be easier for them to install while doing transmission? If not and labor is high, i may wait to install those, until i get the suspension situation under control.
Last edited by luv350sass; Apr 7, 2023 at 12:38 PM.
That plastic engine cover, take an eye out, if not shoot through the hood. And the strut bar, for sure, have protection.
lol im being careful because of the car, not me. Only thing im slightly worried about is having it adjusted right once back on, and not maring up or stripping anything. may buy a smooth adjustable wrench. all i have is channellocks and i dont want to mar up the nuts on strut bar either.
Buy a basic metric socket set. Try Sonic Tools. They sell online and have a lifetime warranty.
already got that. i got a kobalt mechanics set for 40 bucks at lowes. i had metric sockets but was missing a few sizes and was having trouble looking for them. im actually thinking screw it man im going to save money for all these repairs, and use my ridged chanellocks to undo and reset strut bar. I think it will mar up the nuts, but i mean im only going to have this strut bar a month or two anyways. ill def be going aftermarket. i have a nice impact for work i will carefully use on bolts.
ive gotten alot of attention with the z. I was working in a tourist area/car enthusiast area. im happy my commute just got reduced again back to 6 miles. I hate driving so much with suspension like this. something about rainy windy nights. when i hit a bump in the road the car body only,not wheels ,slides side ways a little and rolls side to side. pretty freaky and doesnt always happen when its dry. i dont even want to goto grocery store again when i need to and stuff. always trying to do multiple things in one trip.
the popping clanking noise over lower speed bumps, is def worse on front driver side
ive got suspension parts in cart but having trouble affording them, it will come together soon and just hope it doesnt break anything. shop who does specialty alignment extra expensive too, so i will be doing it right atleast.
im happy to get trans done. shifter alignment def out and it grinds, sometimes hard to get in. i pulled up next to a white z (pretty sure 350 sometimes hard to tell) and missed a gear right next to him in heavy traffic. he revved back at me and i hate my half exhaust lol.
Last edited by luv350sass; Apr 8, 2023 at 07:46 AM.
If the engine cover or strut bar flies off through the hood, then you'll have a sweet vented hood because racecar.
You definitely need to get those bushings sorted. Replace those and then get it aligned properly.
Just about every bolt on the Z is 10, 12, or 14 mm. Stock up on those sockets. There is a black hole under the hood that tends to vacuum those into oblivion never to be seen again.
If the engine cover or strut bar flies off through the hood, then you'll have a sweet vented hood because racecar.
You definitely need to get those bushings sorted. Replace those and then get it aligned properly.
Just about every bolt on the Z is 10, 12, or 14 mm. Stock up on those sockets. There is a black hole under the hood that tends to vacuum those into oblivion never to be seen again.
ok cool.
Now i think it was you that told me way earlier i just needed new compression rod bushings vs compression rods. the price difference is only 269 dollars, and im worried shop labor to press the bushings may exceed that. my cart for full suspension makeover is expensive. I could maybe afford to replace just a few bushings or something first with trans. The control arms, specialty alignment already get a little pricey, i may need to wait on some of it, but still have it lined up next.
Stock strut bar will best any hinged aftermarket bar. My Z has had multiple aftermarket strut bars over the last 18 years. I own multiple cars as well and have wasted money on aftermarket strut bars. The stock bar on the z is very well engineered.
Stock strut bar will best any hinged aftermarket bar. My Z has had multiple aftermarket strut bars over the last 18 years. I own multiple cars as well and have wasted money on aftermarket strut bars. The stock bar on the z is very well engineered.
interesting. so by hinged, you mean the sway bar end links? i was looking at the whiteline sway bar kit. with the endlinks included. i assumed it could be set more rigid than stock, or maybe be lighter. the 350z does not come with a rear sway bar stock right?
interesting. so by hinged, you mean the sway bar end links? i was looking at the whiteline sway bar kit. with the endlinks included. i assumed it could be set more rigid than stock, or maybe be lighter. the 350z does not come with a rear sway bar stock right?
ohh lol i thought it was another word for the same thing and the front strut bar was a front sway bar, and if u got aftermarket sway bars, you would remove the strut bar.
ohh lol i thought it was another word for the same thing and the front strut bar was a front sway bar, and if u got aftermarket sway bars, you would remove the strut bar.
No. You don't need to touch the strut bar when replacing the sway bars ( also known as anti-roll bars).
No. You don't need to touch the strut bar when replacing the sway bars ( also known as anti-roll bars).
lol ok. so is that silver adjustable thing that i must remove to remove engine cover, a strut bar?
just had to make sure lol. also will this cat strt pipe cause a constant check engine light? kind of sucks you wont know if something else is going on with your car.
Yes, and yes. That's why I don't care for test pipes literally do nothing over HFC other than be obnoxious.
Upper bar is strut bar, lower bar is sway bar.
ok well thanks for the recommendations. i shouldve maybe gone the hfc route with it being hundreds of dollars cheaper too than my expensive titanium strt pipe. im locked in now though lol.
so i didnt see my spark plugs maybe they are hidden. these photos may be useless but lmk if you see anything
