The shifter bolts to it... how is it supposed to stay in place with nothing holding it? The flimsy tunnel?

I am really questioning this shop's knowledge

 

My irp v3 shifter doesnt though. its all contained within itself. The shifter will bolt straight to the body of the car, then the bottom of it to the trans as pictured. The tech working on it is not familiar with my shifter though. So that wont work? i saw another youtube video of someone installing without taking trans off. They grinded out the inside of the "hole" on the thing they plan on taking off, because it would be in the way of the shifter. my shop plans on taking it off entirely, says its useless. I mean i did notice that instead of having three holes and a round shape its got 4, and is a big square. It def wont bolt to it

 

No, on the IRP or Coolerworx shifters, the support bracket goes away. As a matter of fact, if you keep it on (unnecessary), you have to machine out the hole that the stock shifter goes through (which you mentioned already). The aftermarket units are self contained and the actuator (the part that goes down to the trans shift rod) connects directly to it so the bracket is unnecessary. The actual shifter(s) mount to the trans tunnel (what your mechanic called "the body") using supplied lock down brackets and bolts. Moving the mounting points up into the cabin requires a longer actuator, which is why the new shifter looks longer by an inch or so.

It's a somewhat complex (or at least tedious) install. Mainly because removal of the shifter support bracket is difficult with trans in-car. Advisable to drop the cross member and lower the trans to get access to the top bolts holding the support assembly to the trans.

S'far as "bogging down the thread", hey, pics tell a thousand words. And, after 440 posts, who's counting anyways. Hahaha!

EDIT: The vid on YT is from "Vitamin Z" on YT, AKA "RENFRO", here on my350Z. His is the Coolerworx install/drive which sold me on that unit.

 

Thanks for the info!

you asked for it..











That last pic kinda shows the overal messed look from a distance that it has in person. its seriously like waved out on that one side, and goes in where its cracked

 

Interesting on that shifter...never seen that. Learn something new still around here

 

Whoa, that's pretty funked up. In all my years in parts n' service have I seen a new capital part THAT screwed up. Sure hope that's going back to where it came from with new one turned around pronto! And someone is eating the freight costs.

 

wonder if someone dropped it

 

As Mic mentioned, that IRP shifter design looks similar to the Coolerworx. It does mount to the tunnel itself. Definitely tell your shop to use some loctite on those mounting bolts so they don't back out.

Here is a video of the Coolerworx install on a 370. It should be pretty similar to what you have going on.

 

well thanks for the help but im pretty sure they already did all of that today, hopefully correctly. the adjustable bolts scare me. wish i couldve relayed the loctite info.. if they exchange this trans, then i will be installing new trans someday.

 

You already had an aftermarket short shifter in there. Why are you switching it out? Did it not go into 5th/6th gear correctly? Because the aluminum holder also needs the factory steel holder on top of it for the shifter to work correctly.

 

honestly idk why i switched it out before suspension lol. i guess because i felt forced to do trans first, since i didnt know if my shop was willing to store for long time, or not. I wanted to do anything related for less labor costs. and i wanted all good smooth working stuff period. and everybody on here talked about problems w the b and m shifter i didnt know i had. im happy w my decision so far. and yes old shifter had annoying issues w 5th and 6th.

mega update

Im worried about the car. mainly because it has ses light and lack of power. i did a few pulls, and i think it has less power, when now it has full exhaust. i have to drive to work tomm, so i hope its ok and will quit running it hard. i just had to see.. They said they put the sensors up.. it also runs smoothly, just not as fast. They also told me i can take it there and they can check that for me and see if they can fix it, but with my work schedule, i cant go there during operating hours. and rentals are expensive af and turned back in. I could goto a shop in the redneck/tourist town im working in. but they probably wouldnt be A1

It has rpm guage bouncing constantly quickly. like 200 to 350 not huge bounces. Shop said this was because of my aftermarket aluminum flywheel. aftermarket clutch and flywheel feel good. i love the instant engagement of the clutch, but killed it once first time leaving shop, expecting to not need many rpms to pull off.

on trans issue socalz said they would email me a copy of the invoice so i could try to return it locally w nissan. when i arrived at the shop to pick car up he said "i think i know what happened to your transmission buddy". and i said what. and he said that you can tell by the alligator scale (or something lol)that it has been exposed to excessive heat. he thinks it got burnt up or something and when they sent in core, they didnt notice it. Thats when i told him it was a BRAND NEW transmission from nissan. He seemed puzzled and says he can see the buff marks where they buffed it, and this is not a new transmission. its rebuilt or something. and he said there was indeed nissan insignia on the box. Socalz has been real nice and pretty responsive. it feels a little slow for me, like i gave him my email for an invoice so i could try to return w nissan, and no email yet 4.5 hrs later. But with how cool theyve been, i still have faith i just think they move a little slow. I will call monday, if i dont have it.

new shifter feels great. fifth still grinds some so i guess synchros or something. but everything with 5th and sixth is better. even the grinding a little toned down. I actually dont see a problem with 6th yet based on one drive. reverse button sticking but i can push it back up from bottom, and think it just needs to break in. the throw feels alot shorter actually and kinda cool, like it requires a hair of force to lock into gear. and im happy it saves weight if i dont need the support bracket


edit: also my shop blessed me today and didnt charge me as much as they should have for labor. he charged me for one trans install and less hrs when they tried three times and re aligned clutch etc, before they realized the crack and malformities.

 

my shop randomly sent me these two photos lol. figured it would be good tomei exhaust ****.






ses vdc off and slip light was on. i may try to turn vdc on next trip, usually its on anyways.edit: second trip vdc off and slip light still on. thought it tried to engage on wet hill. maybe that was just wheel hop. pressing vdc off does nothing

 

Check the codes. Probably cam and/or crank sensor related.

 

Thanks man. I may mention thats a possibility. It doesnt run that bad, im tempted to take it to a random shop while im working. I love my shop, but i would have to rent again. I could always get code pulled, but since i cant do any of the work anyways, i might as well take it somewhere. I was hoping to save for more parts, and the tune someday.

btw, it makes a bad sounding rotational grind sound now too. It goes away if i push the clutch in. Even in neutral with clutch pedal not pressed, it makes the noise.

 

Did you have cats before the test pipes, if so that is prob tge cause od ses light. The cement truck sound is because of the new flywheel

 

yes, i had factory cats before the test pipes. They were supposed to mount sensor on outside to trick it. I think they did. they finished in a hurry after trans issue, and putting project on hold for a day to figure out if i was putting old one back. I didnt want to rent another week. Im tempted, to just run it as is carefully and low rpms and keep saving for suspension, or last bolt ons and tune. Im wondering if the reason for the lack of power is its just a little lean after exhaust. The lack of power is not noticable, i just think i can tell it doesnt pull as hard. I opened engine bay and stuck my head in there while i revved it w my long arms and hand. Sounds great and runs smooth

 

The VDC and slip light won't be triggered by the test pipes. Go get the codes read and report back.

 

10-4.. ill bite the bullet and pay a small amount to make sure its okay. im prob going to just take it back to my shop.. i rented a car on turo, it was cheaper than enterprise. i will have to drive it 30 miles each way to and from work tomm. i also already drove it some today.

 

An auto parts store will read the codes for free. With those two specific lights and the feeling that it is a little low on power, it sounds like cam/crank sensors as i8acobra previously mentioned.

 

Yeah maybe i should have read the codes for free and got a head start. My thoughts are that even if its the cam or crank sensor, i wouldnt know what to do if i found out thats what it is. I guess you all could help me. I would hate to keep driving it like this though. So i went ahead and scheduled to drop it before work tomm morning at my shop to get it checked, and rented a car a few days. It is tempting to get a loan on second car with all these rentals.