If it does turn out to be a bad cam or crank sensor, do NOT let them replace it with an aftermarket sensor. Go with OEM. Otherwise, you will keep having problems.

 

ok so no update on the car. my shop was super busy today and didnt touch it. They were also unhappy that nissan called them 3 times and harassed them asking questions about my transmission for decent time periods. This was my local nissan, after contacting them with the invoice and warranty numbers. It was almost like they were insulting my shop too constantly asking basically, if it could be their fault lol. Then they finally found an outlet with their field office manager saying, "because my shop said it wasnt shipped with some extra service order clutch xxxxxxx(something i forgot), they couldnt warranty it locally. basically the cd009 had a recall and was supposed to be shipped with some clutch thingy? even though we were telling them constantly that was not the issue...

Then tony socalz guy, has been talking to me alot and real cool. he kept pushing for me to return it locally though because shipping was expensive for it. he did say at the end of the day today that since theyre not going for it, that he will have to figure out something for me.
I also called Nissan usa directly and they said they couldnt do anything for me! I could barely understand them, but they said i would have to take it back to the dealership i got it from.

socalz worked w different financial loan companies lol and said they could get me a trans with it when i asked, is why i went this route. z1 is way closer to me. But i would prob buy a trans in future directly from nissan to avoid having to lie or explain the middleman situation w socalz.. I love gtrs and 240s and 350s and all but im not really feeling the Nissan love after how rude or non consoling and bland all of the representatives i dealt with acted today.

 

Hate to break it to you but that’s ALL SOP. Dealers are in the business of making money, not doing anyone favors. If you had bought it from them originally AND/OR they were doing the install OR now bought it from them so they can get something out of the labor they are incurring with taking it back “for SoCalZ”. then it may be different. Just a matter of factoring in actual costs and bottom line $$$ for the work associated with this clusterfugg.

 

yeah its just lame because socalz bought it from their local nissan they have an account with it. the box it came in had nissan insignia. It shipped directly from a nissan dealer. It was supposed to be perfect and it wasnt. So, you know i feel entitled as a consumer. I guess if the place in cali takes it back though it will be okay. Maybe all the Nissan dealerships really are seperate entities and they cant cross those lines, but thats stupid.

 

You can certainly crap on Nissan all you want, but this likely would have happened regardless which is why I originally said it was going to be a clusterfck with everyone pointing the finger at the other. Too many cooks in the kitchen. SoCalZ apparently got it from Nissan or drop-shipped it from them with you using a financing company through them sent to a different install shop in order to do the work. As Mic said, Nissan would have warrantied the work and the part if you paid them to do everything. They might warranty their part if you bought it directly from them as long as the install shop had already been vetted by them.

Either way, I hope it works out. Hopefully the pictures are enough to convince them that amount of damage could not have been done during an install, but who knows.

 

well thanks for the hoping it works out atleast lol.on a seperate note, i receive one part back after install of y-pipes and test pipes. I mean its kind of strange to me. it looks like tomei would suggest you use it. its obvious looking at my pictures it fits between the test pipes and y pipes

 

So another update. the crankshaft sensor is bad so hes changing it. but he said theres a gouge in it and hes not sure why. He said if the flywheel is hitting the sensor and causing the gouge itll gouge the new one and not much he can do. he said he can back "it" out a little but then there will be a gap which he acted like was bad.

 

Maybe it got gouged during install?

Or the flywheel is improperly installed or the fitment is off. What clutch flywheel combo did you go with?

 

Some crank sensors had a small shim under the mounting tab from the factory. If yours had one and it went missing at some point, that would explain the gouge. Guys at the dealership used to drop and lose them all the time.

 

hmmm, the new crank sensor should have a shim with it right? or is that sold seperately?

anyways, you all are going to flame me for this. idk the clutch flywheel combo... I ordered over the phone with socalz, they picked it out for me and didnt email me info on it. and i didnt open the box and just had it installed lol. they did ask if i wanted the aluminum racing flywheel or street one. said either would work so i got aluminum. clutchmasters brand i think unless thats just the clutch

 

they got my crank sensor figured out. they had to shim it out to a specific amount for the flywheel not to hit. they also put ball joints on for ke, spark plugs, and a front lower left control arm. They kind of took it upon themselves to order the control arm. But only charged me 115 or something like that, when it was supposed to be 600 something he said, they charged me wholesale. Oem part even though i wanted those spl bushings. It broke me bad, i still need to make one more payment on trans loan. No lights on dash and runs better. they said two of my plugs were wet and that two tubes in my valve cover were leaking. So i guess i have to save for a valve cover gasket now and im broke as hell.

edit: He kind of convinced me to go ahead and do ball joints, and the arm. it was in very bad shape suspension wise but im not sure its much better. It may need alignment. it wigs out over a bump in rain, but the slip light doesnt come on. Im so happy i have vdc. I hate traction control and will barely use it, but right now i have no money and am on threads on rear tires.. Tech also said the clutch and flywheel was indeed for my car because it fit. and its working. Im not going to even ask socalz what i have. My main worry with them is taking this trans back.

 

Im not going to lie, I really did underestimate the cost of getting it perfect. People always talk about how much stuff costs, but when paying for labor and running into problems along the way its bad. Im still happy with my decision though, and will go as far as i can with this puppy. Most decent sports cars i can fit in are more expensive these days. I wanted to share this awesome photo of a turbo build. Some company posted it to facebook but i like the lighting and 350z vibe. plus its my engine.

 

If it's the spark plug tube seals that are gone, well, there is a workaround (Mickey Mouse) with using sealants on them. However, with the amount of work to get to the v/cs, best to just replace the entire valve cover set. There are threads on here that talk about metal replacements. Not totally inexpensive, sorry. If you're broke, you might have to go the RTV sealant route.

 

well, with my limited knowledge on doing stuff like that, and not wanting any funky stuff done to this car, I planned on riding it out. Who knows how long its been doing that, and its been running, my shop said something like that when i was worried. I was going to wait maybe a month, and even get tires first (not going all out on expensive tires this first time around like planned...). And just not goto the gym or do any extra driving, even though my commute is 30 miles each way

edit: on shop notes it says "tube seals are leaking on back 2 cylinders"

 

This whole thing sounds like a nightmare.

 

Its definitely more nightmarish now. I should atleast have a brand new trans in it, and i dont. If i can ever get past this rough patch and catch up on maintenance to do suspension and tune, maybe i can drive the way i want. Right now im going to drive like grandma in the rain.

 

I would like to think of this thread as a cautionary tale for all new owners.

 

Yep. figured the shim was missing. Also, sounds like the clunk was your inner control arm bushing. That's why they did the arm. You're gonna need valve covers as the tube seals are non-serviceable. Get the metal ones or oem plastic. Don't get aftermarket plastic. They leak.

 

thanks for the info. Do you think metal is better than oem plastic? I may let them buy this part, because theyve been so good to me. Unless, i can pick a better one out myself.

They said they changed that control arm because it was causing the clanking. While theyre kind of right (one of the clank noises gone) , the loudest most notable clank is still there, in the front. They said the ball joints would solve popping and it still pops over lower speed bumpy ground. I think it would feel better, but feels about the same because i think its further out of alignment.

those are the next three things
1. tires to get by
2. valve cover gasket
3. basic alignment


then i will save for suspension goodies and tune and stuff.

 

The most appealing thing about the aftermarket aluminum VCs is that the spark plug tube seals are serviceable. With OEM, you have to buy new covers since the seals are pressed in and not serviceable (by conventional means). CZP sells some. There have been a few threads on here about the Mitzone red VCs which are fairly favorable.

When I did my VCs, the aftermarket aluminum was not available so I went with OEM. If I were to do it again, I'd probably go with the aluminum option.

Mitzone are definitely cheaper and shiny red because racecar.