It only goes to the A/C. Will not cause engine damage.

 

The only thing affected by no A/C belt is that you don't have A/C.

 

All true, no engine issues. But the A/C compressor seals may dry out and leak if not run for an extended period. Not to mention potential seizing of the pulley unit from non-use/corrosion.

New AC compressor units run $8-900, rebuilt about $300 give/take. Plus the install and charge after cracking the system. Get the belt on and test.

 

ok thanks mic and everybody iideadeyeii too. I was worried with the underdrive overdrive stuff, that the pulley might affect other pulley. I have new pulleys and belts. I hope my shop knows how to install them. I bought them thru socalz, so cant print them the z1 install manual. My serpentine belt kit has 4 diff belts, all diff sizes, two for ac, and two more. it doesnt seem right, because theres only that one main big drive belt, and the ac belt.

i also have the lightweight crank pulley set separate

 

So, over the past few days, I upgraded and downgraded the z. It is now in the shop too.
I installed hatch poppers. I will do struts when i get it back. I attempted to install the z1 comp matte avt pedals. I installed the brake and clutch, with a picture below. The gas pedal is impossible to install with their instructions, and almost impossible to install without the instructions. If i did not have the metal sport oem pedals, it would be easy. I don't feel the need to change the gas pedal really anyways. The pedals are more grippy, but it's nice slippery too to slide off of. Idk if i like them or not, but thumbs down for un-installable gas pedal.



Then i continued with my maintenance, and used the mothers headlight kit. I spent most of 3 hours sanding and buffing it. They had alot of bad spots from me sucking. So then i restarted with the 800 grit, and ended up going to sloppy i think, and quick with the steps in end. My back was hurting, and it was dark. It improved my headlights alot i thought, but now not so much. I also added meguires clear coat spray, in 42 degree weather when it calls for 55. With two space heaters outside... i also hit it with the heat gun from a distance, and it had ice on it in 8 hours. I was supposed to let it cure at 55 for 24 hours. They still look nice except buff marks, but dont shine very far. I also made the cars wrap look like hell lol.






Then i continued with my downgrades the next day. I was leaving work, and parked in front of curb. My tire looked flat, so i took it out of gear, and pushed it backwards up the slight hill to inspect tires. I did not reset the ebrake, which is always set. I did not realize this, and started the car to warm it up when leaving. I did not realize it was moving forward til i smashed the curb, and bumper was turned inside out/cracked worse. My fender liner came off otw in the driveway. I reshaped the bumper, but its mounting holes are damaged. Idk if i should order a new one off z1 ir what.

 

It lives! I appreciate the self-deprication nature of this thread.

I don't know how those pedal covers install, but the accelerator is not just a slip on cover since there is a small bushing on the back with a clip that must be undone in order remove it. Personally, I like the sport pedals and I changed to a 380RS pedal. Maybe you should do the same in order to aid with your heel-toe. There's a write-up here, but the pics are gone. This one has the pictures.

The headlights look a lot better than before. Props for using some underwear to wipe off the plastic slurry that you sanded off.

You can get some replacement fender liners off fleabay that work perfectly fine. They're a lot thinner than OEM, but get the job done. Sucks that you scrapped your bumber on a pull. Maybe you should just remove it and go cage-style because race/drift car.

 

🤣 I use those as rags alot. I accidentally ordered boxer briefs, and will only wear boxers. The lights worked better at first i thought, but maybe the clearcoat made them not shine as far. I have two new oem fender liners, i had found out they were thicker and wanted oem. I just dont have the bumper, or know if i should just fix mine. I did find a local that works on 350zs, and offered help. ill probably have him, or a smaller body shop take a look. That pedal looks nice, i may get it someday. For now, maybe ill buy some piloti shoes.

the z1 avt pedal, says to use self tapping screws to screw onto oem pedal. It doesnt line up with metal you can tap into, or perfectly with holes either. Its a bad design.

 

I forgot to mention, I have now been pulled over 5 times in the z. Ive been followed to work 3 times, but only spoke to once. Thankfully, I havent been going WOT any of the times. I still only have one ticket, and two warning tickets. It does suck having to drive it like a grandpa, but im trying to chill out. The last time i was pulled over, i was going the speed limit and all. I asked him why, and apparentally he saw me driving recklessly months ago. I need a dashcam lol. Heres the bill, and its not all done! he said he would do the csc and master cylinder, with my pulleys and belts next week. Ill be so broke.

 

You can certainly tell a LEO that pulls you over for doing something "months ago" to eat a bag, but maybe (just a suggestion) you should stop driving like a Dugan to attract unnecessary attention.

 

If it was my shop, I'd cut you a break on the header labor since they're rather easy to do with the trans out.

 

Yeah, im trying to chill out. I have been alot happier enjoying my suspension parts and tires. I was a tad depressed with no girl, and build going bad. The cop was cool, especially in the end. And yes, that would be crazy if he tried to do something, when he basically said he pulled me over for no reason. edit: ps theyre starting to **** me off. That was the SECOND cop, that was being nice, but said the 350z was his wifes fav car (or other one said his wife wanted one) 😡

They claimed that they cut me breaks whenever they can, and the header install took longer cuz its "custom". I know it comes with a shield thing. Who knows what they did, if it comes with wrap maybe they wrapped it lol. I thought i gave them the y-pipe. I just found out its coming tommorow. So ill see how this sounds first. I told my shop that I would install y-pipe later probably, and he txted this "There is no room we have an extra resonator". Then he clarified, that the exhaust came with two resonators, but only one fit. but he can still change the y-pipes.

 

I don't think giving OP a break on labor is something this shop is particularly fond of given the fact they charged two hours of labor for a door handle.

 

yeah it was the interior driver side, is that bad? I actually may be going to another shop! not for the pulleys and slave cylinder stuff though. ive been learning about some of the local respected experts. There is one 5 minutes from me, much closer. He rebuilds engines and does all normal work, apparently affordable work. Whats strange, is my shop has less respect from enthusiasts than him, but more google reviews, and alot of business. Anyways, this guy claims my shop is bad at diagnosis' , and that he can find why it's losing oil. Im also looking into a second car, which may drastically slow down build, so im unsure. It would be convenient to have two cars.

 

So, got the z back and last bill. He said the tilton master cylinder was super difficult to install. and they had to cut a wrench, and turn something all awkardly, or something. I guess the tomei y-pipe and z1 modular, are diff lengths. They said part of the exhaust, wouldnt fit w my tomei y-pipe. Its better, but still loud w tomei exhaust, catless pipes, tomei y-pipe, and z1 touring exhaust with one resonator. The drone is gone, its actually badass, but prob too loud still. They gave me back my spacer and 06 belt. So, I guess they didnt delete the idler pulley like i asked, and they used the 03 belt. Maybe its my fault for buying from socalz, and not having z1s instructions.

They said there were two big holes in my clutch from heat, and the flywheel was affected some on the surface, but they cleaned it off and i should be good.. Thats crazy it only lasted 9k miles or so, and was that badly damaged. Crazy drive home! 5 miles of thick icy salt brine sheet. it was well below freezing and i didnt stop drifting back and forth in my summer tires, low tread on rear, esp outter. They scraped the whole road good like 2 hours later.

 

Personally, I didn't find the Tilton MC install terribly difficult. I did it in my driveway using basic hand tools before I had my garage built.

I'm curious about these "holes" in either the clutch pressure plate or friction disc that they "cleaned." They would have had to drop the trans to see that. I guess that was included in the hours of labor for the other things. I guess $1,100 isn't that terrible based on the amount of work done.

Did they give you an explanation as to the cause of the premature clutch damage?

 

well, all together, it was over 4k. But they did install the brand new trans finally, on the first bill. I asked, if it could be because of the pilot bushing or something going bad. He said no, its lead foot lol. I dont get it though, i did shift between 2nd and 3rd like crazy on some runs, but I thought it would handle it better. My idea is, socal z thought they sent me the fx300 the first time they said. My shop says that this clutch is definitely different, and twin disc or dual or whatever. So maybe they sent me something low quality the first time, like clutchmasters fx100.

 

Well, as an update, I think you all were right. The shifter is not working so well. Idk if its my mechanic that installed it, or the shifter. Sometimes it's hard to get into first or third. It's so annoying missing third because it just wont go. I thought some of it was the trans synchros, but I have a new trans, no difference. It may even be worse. Most of the time it shifts into third fine, it's just sometimes. And on rare occassion I hear loose metal noises under the shifter, like somethings not tight.

I think the handling quirk was all of my bushings, were not done. I wondered why my shop returned my shock bushings, and im just now learning, I did not have my front lower control arm bushings. Which i paid for both as one item, from socalz, like z1 had it listed. Im getting y pipe that i thought i had when i did exhaust, installed tomm. I also think the hard to drift thing, was the combo of new tires, and not knowing about the tc thats still on, when vdc is off.

I installed hatch struts myself, and broke one 10mm screw off. I was trying to follow the 40lbs torque spec z1 gave, by hand, and guess. I tried for four hours to remove the screw w no luck. I hope i didnt mess the threads up, will have new mechanic deal with it.

I hate that i dropped my engine. its tempting to get that one inspected, but im worried i may have ruined bearing clearances, and it needs rebuilt. rebuilds are expensive! performance rebuilds even N/A ones especially! I was told I have to run a standalone ecu with good control, an intake system, alot of headwork on the engine, for a performance N/A build. Im seeing nice used usa de's, for the 2k dollar mark. Some from companies that test them. Ill prob keep my engine mostly stock, and if i boost one itll be low boost. I cant afford the builds.

 

i got one for you all. So, nobody seems to think half building a performance engine, will be reliable. I was going to put my ported lower runners and plenum, on a stock engine. Since I'm considering no boost, and just the higher final drive gear, can i milk anymore reliably? If i want to spend a little more on my engine, but not too much, is there some more port work or something you would recommend on a stock de?

 

INCH POUNDS or 3ft lbs

 

Youre right! man i didnt know there was a difference! I imagined i was curling a 40lb dumbell when i tightened it. I overthought it. The other side i did with an impact driver and some control, super quick, and didnt break it.