The Official LS Swap Info/Questions Thread
It was just some cheap $30 China twin intake tube that I found on Ebay last year. The thing was powder coated green when I got it. The intake was originally straight from the merge point backwards. I cut it shorter and welded on the downward bend that allows the intake to angle downward.
Finally did it, Ordered my Engine today. Picked up a zero mile, ASA LS1 engine, rated for 450hp. Only decided to go with this because I've hear alot of Minute mod brings this engine to 550-600 hp. So!! I'm trying to get my wap in and running by july 17, My B-day. Plus decided building a engine isnt in my budget for my goals, so this is a humble start.
Looking forward to getting this bish going. Been too long coming.
What ignition royal? And i wanted those ast's...!
Looking forward to getting this bish going. Been too long coming.
What ignition royal? And i wanted those ast's...!
Finally did it, Ordered my Engine today. Picked up a zero mile, ASA LS1 engine, rated for 450hp. Only decided to go with this because I've hear alot of Minute mod brings this engine to 550-600 hp. So!! I'm trying to get my wap in and running by july 17, My B-day. Plus decided building a engine isnt in my budget for my goals, so this is a humble start.
Looking forward to getting this bish going. Been too long coming.
What ignition royal? And i wanted those ast's...!
Looking forward to getting this bish going. Been too long coming.
What ignition royal? And i wanted those ast's...!
Don't get too crazy. My research suggests that somewhere over 450hp the stock internals should be upgraded. The block doesn't need to be bored, just forged internals swapped in.
I picked it up from a old hotrod guy off ls1tech. Paid 4k longblock with all accessories. These engines are discontinued. I believe the ASA stock car series went with another route. This comes with forged internals, 226/236 cam .525 and lingenfelter heads.
Fisrt mod, new intake and Throttle body + tune.
Early goals 550-600 hp NA
12-18 month goal TTLSX 850-900 (pump gas) 950-1100 on race.
Fisrt mod, new intake and Throttle body + tune.
Early goals 550-600 hp NA
12-18 month goal TTLSX 850-900 (pump gas) 950-1100 on race.
Congrats... mind sharing a link to where you purchased and the price paid to help others make decisions?
Don't get too crazy. My research suggests that somewhere over 450hp the stock internals should be upgraded. The block doesn't need to be bored, just forged internals swapped in.
Don't get too crazy. My research suggests that somewhere over 450hp the stock internals should be upgraded. The block doesn't need to be bored, just forged internals swapped in.
Last edited by TehkMob; Jun 11, 2011 at 02:44 PM.
eventually, and i also eventually wanna get a remote power steering resevoir. right now i just wanna get this damn thing running! only thing holding me up is my intercooler piping and waiting on my wiring to return from sikky.
also fyi for everybody, you need your factory ls1 security settings on the ecu disabled to start up. i am going through benchmark tuning in illinois for that as well as a complete tune. there are other places i found online who can do it. cheapest security disable ive found online was $110 + shipping
also fyi for everybody, you need your factory ls1 security settings on the ecu disabled to start up. i am going through benchmark tuning in illinois for that as well as a complete tune. there are other places i found online who can do it. cheapest security disable ive found online was $110 + shipping
Two simple aluminum spacers and pounding the stock 350z bracket flat and you can bolt the pump directly to the block/heads.
You can see in the first picture that I took the factory 350z zinc plated bracket and pounded it flat. Then there is one long spacer at the top and one short one at the bottom (Actually the middle spacer right below the head in the first picture).
I am actually suprised that more people other than me haven't tried using the stock 350z pump and reservoir.
Two simple aluminum spacers and pounding the stock 350z bracket flat and you can bolt the pump directly to the block/heads.
You can see in the first picture that I took the factory 350z zinc plated bracket and pounded it flat. Then there is one long spacer at the top and one short one at the bottom (Actually the middle spacer right below the head in the first picture).
Two simple aluminum spacers and pounding the stock 350z bracket flat and you can bolt the pump directly to the block/heads.
You can see in the first picture that I took the factory 350z zinc plated bracket and pounded it flat. Then there is one long spacer at the top and one short one at the bottom (Actually the middle spacer right below the head in the first picture).
Also, I saw the retro fit answer, why JB weld? My old oil pressure and temp sensors were fine with just some plumbers tape.
Put some accurate measurements to this please. What spacers,what size holes and what lengths... this is the info we need to give others options. Thanks Quamen.
Also, I saw the retro fit answer, why JB weld? My old oil pressure and temp sensors were fine with just some plumbers tape.
Also, I saw the retro fit answer, why JB weld? My old oil pressure and temp sensors were fine with just some plumbers tape.
JB weld is just my personal preference since I have never had a failure. With taper threads like NPT and BSP I feel it's safer since you don't have tighten them as much and risk hairline cracks in the castings (i.e. a common issue with the VQ oil sensor port).
you can still remove the sensor with JB weld on the threads?
I can try to take some measurements this weekend. The length will vary depending on the crank pulley you use though.
JB weld is just my personal preference since I have never had a failure. With taper threads like NPT and BSP I feel it's safer since you don't have tighten them as much and risk hairline cracks in the castings (i.e. a common issue with the VQ oil sensor port).
JB weld is just my personal preference since I have never had a failure. With taper threads like NPT and BSP I feel it's safer since you don't have tighten them as much and risk hairline cracks in the castings (i.e. a common issue with the VQ oil sensor port).