I'm running a TH400 though. Based on my fuel requirements I am showing 24% drivetrain loss in power to the wheels. Most people see between 22% and 25% depending on their specific TH400 setup. That it is a huge power loss compared to a T56, although its quicker at the drag strip.

On a side note I just ordered my Edelbrock Pro Flo XT manifold and 90mm throttle body!

 

On order! Time to make some power where it counts at the strip! Intake manifold and throttle body should be here later this week! I am going to sand the Edelbrock logo off and smooth the flange area and then powder coat it wrinkle black.

 

Oh boy I can't wait to see this.. What is the big benefit between this and a FAST102/ 102TB combo?

 

The primary benefit is cost. At nearly 1/2 the cost of the FAST setup it fits the bill for what I am looking for. Since the car is an automatic my converter doesn't even lock up until 4,000rpm's so I am not worried about low-mid range power as much. This manifold is a top end style manifold while the FAST intakes are more of an all around manifold. While the FAST is superior, it isn't necessary in my application. Plus I have nitrous to make up for the low-end that I lose.

 

+1!

It seems like when I try to explain this to a lot of the people on the LS boards it's in one ear out the other. I'm building mine for 4500+ rpms so I dont' get a crap about anything below that.

Will this fit under the stock shock tower brace?

 

At this point I wish I knew about the chasebay setup before I purchased the one I did. But what's done is done.

Is there a good spot to go through the fire wall that I haven't seen or do I need to just make my own? I found some decent grommets that would work well if I make my own.

 

On my kit it is possible yet unlikely. On a Hinson or Sikky kit I highly doubt it.

 

with the sikky kit i have about 2.5" from my intake manifold to my aps strut bar. id say about 4-5" from a stock strut bar and thats being generous. seeing as this is a front facing throttlebody, i dont think this would fit a stock hood giving that it slopes down forwards. there is tons of room out back near the firewall, but up front itd be a very very tough fit, and thats not factoring in piping, etc.

 

Im using the stock location with a CF plate mounted under and behind the dash instead of the stock grommet. In the next month or two im pulling the motor before Zdays and drilling the spot welds out of the secondary firewall that runs around the motor and getting rid of it and will mount the mil spec plug somewhere else. I am also mounting this the sam way on VAS's car as well. I guess the harness he got back from justin at Q fab didnt work

 

Hr hood?

 

^id recommend a stillen at least. even though its hideous.

logan, if my harness doesnt work, im gonna need one from you. can you customize them before they are sent out??

 

Screw it just cut it put a cowl on there

D - Of course we can, you name it we can wire it

 

At least someone else has a pair!

I have a vent hole in my hood right there already so I'm sure I can figure something out.

 

THIS!! Reminds me of my friends 6.6 trans am with a velocity stack sticking out of the hood. Every time it rained we had to pull over and throw a floor mat over the stack to keep it from drinking the rain.

 

Good news for the first gen sikky swap guys i should be getting my "new" shifter in tomorrow. From what they were saying on the phone they just replaced the springs with stiffer springs in the shifter. I hope it is better that the original or i might get with todd @ fueld racing and get their kit so i can retain the stock shifter and use a good aftermarket shifter actually designed for the gto t56 shifter. Seriously when i was in a gear i could move the shifter a inch to either side there was so much play. This also made finding gears about impossible.

I know enjuku racing makes their own extended shifter for their hyundai genesis swap kit but it is 11 inches long and the sikky one is a inch or so shorter from the measurements that i got from them. If it works better im always down to modify.

 

Brew... the side to side doesn't bother me, its the hard throw to get it into gears that kills me. I've noticed that when cold it is VERY vague... no idea if its engaged or not. Tried to pull out the other day and it started grinding... looked like an idiot

 

I'm curious to see how this works for you. I've completely disassembled the Sikky shifter and for it to have as much 'slop' as you say the centering spring should have nothing to do with it. The play you mention is likely due to either the tolerances in the holes the verticle links attach to to the horizontal links or poor fitment of the bushings that support the verticle links. Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

Nice, same here I should receive my shifter this week, but I know you are going to put it to use before I will.

Also I would like to thank Logan for great customer service. Place my order for my wiring harness, can't wait to get it Logan..

 

No problem edafe always here to help.


Quamen - thats what i thought as well, i have a feeling when it arrives today and i install it tonight nothing is going to change but we will see. If it doesnt ill be swapping to the fueled racing kit. Ill prob be swapping either way. If they use the stock shifter then the motor has to sit a goo couple of inches further back.

Also a little birdie told me they have some old guys from full race on board helping develop twin turbo kits for both the S and Z/g chassis. I will have more info on this in the next couple of months.

 

Old shifter



New shifter



If you look at the old shifter they have added some brash washers. As Quamen mentioned earlier they had some major play and I'm hoping this will solve that problem.



They have also added brass washers here as well to make up for the play. I hope to get this and my new Mil-Spec harness thrown on tonight and will keep those with the sikky kit updated.