travlee

iTrader: (8)

Jhc just went SC.. He could probably answer some questions for ya

theronz-

Dunno how important cats are to you but for cost reduction maybe cheap test pipes into Circuit Werks (motordyne xyz clone) y pipe with hi-flow cat module? Maybe help cost reducing, obviously quality reducing...?

Jim Stephens

Not in a rush buying the parts, so I have time to look around, research and consider other options. I think I will go ahead and at least buy the fuel pump as that looks like something of a project to get installed. As luck would have it, I have developed the "click" on the rear axle that is well known. That really bugs me. Got the correct grease ordered for that one and am going to take s shot at fixing that.

Not opposed to test pipes, but thinking I will not like the exhaust sound and also the check engine light and smog stuff? Still need to look into that some more. I did note that if you add the High Flow Cat's and Y-pipe up you are looking at roughly $800 dollars which practically buys you some entire exhaust systems. LOL. I already have the cat back Nismo exhaust so you would think I could get something less expensive.

The tough one is what do I really need as a lot of this is optional depending on how you are going to drive the car. The other side says, ****, just do it all rather than having to go back into the car over and over to upgrade parts. The struggle is real. LOL

The other thing some of these aftermarket "upgrade" parts are no better or worse than OEM. As an example, I will take a quote from Concept Z who gets an A plus for complete honesty when they say on their website for the Mishimota radiator fans.. Just found this last night and it cracked me up..go see for yourself.

We here at CZP don't agree with Mishimoto's statement above, and believe the stock fan setup is most efficient. We will still sell the product for those non-believers, but remember, you've been warned!!!

Jim Stephens

This is the one your referring to right? $288.95 ($512 less than my Nismo y-pipe/HF Cat Solution)
https://www.circuitwerksusa.com/product/circuit-werks-350z-z33-resonated-y-pipe-exhaust-flex-mid-350-z-2003-2009-2-5-3/
- Looks like you would also need their test pipes which is another $90
https://www.circuitwerksusa.com/prod...-w-flex-pipes/

And here is the motordyne version $595 with Y pipe and HF Cat: ($205 less than my Nismo Y-pipe /HF Cat solution)
https://conceptzperformance.com/moto...21_p_12146.php

travlee

iTrader: (8)

they will tune out of the light... if they still can. here is my old car with ART pipes and 2 different exhausts

travlee

iTrader: (8)

Motordyne all day long, guy is an alleged rocket scientist... i have no proof, the second video i posted had MD ART pipes and the MD TDX2

Jim Stephens

I like the level of sound on the first one.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

True dual exhaust, nismo like you have is single entry dual exit

Jim Stephens

Can't argue with the true dual exhaust. Some compromises will need to be made along the way as I have some kind of budget, not really sure what that is though? LOL. So, Texas question. What is the word on the annual inspection? Do I need cats to pass it? If you just track a car I gather none of this matters, just straight pipe it.

With the Motordyne y-pipe I can either buy two HF cats to replace the OEM ones with a resonator after the Y-pipe (loud) OR I can just put two straight pipes in and a single HF cat after the Y-pipe. (louder) Or of course, no cat at all.(loudest) My understanding is the Cat's are the biggest choke point on the system.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

they dont do a physical inspection, and i think you can only have one not ready sensor or something. might want to check with uprev

Jim Stephens

Thanks, I never really paid attention to this topic before as I did not need to. So really they are just dumping your data, but not really putting a sniffer on the exhaust. Still am leaning towards High Flow Cats, motordyne y-pipe with a resonator or maybe straight pipe there as I think the nismo I have has a resonator already built in. While not perfect, should get me much better exhaust flow than what I have today which is OEM Cats and Y-pipe.

Jim Stephens

Good Morning, so, here we go. I have ordered the following:
1. https://conceptzperformance.com/moto...020_p_9959.php
2. https://www.z1motorsports.com/fuel-s...p-p-11159.html
3. Secured UPRev from GreyZ(Thanks!)

My plan is to install the new fuel pump and Y-pipe as the first two projects. I am trying to do as much as I can before I do the bigger Supercharger install.

Speaking of the Supercharger. As you know I bought the Vortech Supercharger used. Time will tell whether that was a good bet or a bad one. It did come out of a working car (saw the video of it) before he pulled it so I will hope for the best. Unfortunately, I tried to remove the blow-off valve and twisted off the two small hex screws that hold it on. I tried drilling it and getting it out with reverse bit, but no luck, that just broke off. I then re-cut them even with the flange and tried to drill them out. No luck. Think I would need a drill press to really be able to do that. So, I am calling Vortech today to see what it caused for a new pipe to replace this one. Should suck. LOL. I will check with my neighbor today to see if he has a drill press or has some skills I do not possess to salvage this blow off pipe. Picture of the fun below.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

find a welder to tac weld a nut on the top of it, see if you can get it to twist out

Jim Stephens

I am upgrading and cleaning up the supercharger set up also. New Filter, rubber fittings for the pipes, belt. I also am looking at changing out the pulley. Z1 has their own Vortech package put together and frankly I am using that has a bit of a roadmap for what I am doing. They are saying as part of their package to go to this 2.87 pulley.

Just checked and it currently has a 3.12 pulley. Kicking that around and am open to comments on this.


https://www.z1motorsports.com/forced...y-p-10028.html

I read on this forum a Vortech summary of pulley's that look like this:
ballpark hp numbers for non-REVUP engine on a typical dynojet SAE corrected generally are in the neighborhood of:

320-335 whp, stock vortech tune with stock pulley and stock everything else on car (stock exhaust, cats, etc)
340-350 whp tuned
350-370 whp add exhaust, HF cats, plenum, and tuning
370-390 whp add 3.12 pulley and tuning
380-400 whp add headers and/or test pipes, and tuning
390-420 whp add 2.87 pulley and tuning
420-440 whp add cams and tuning
440-475 whp add water/meth injection, more timing, at least half race gas (96 octane or higher) and tuned

Another comment on that same write up from a different person.
For the non-REVUP kits, the 3.12 pulley adds about 25whp more than the stock 3.33 pulley while the 2.87 pulley adds about 30whp more than the 3.12.

Jim Stephens

Yes, I really was thinking I need make friends with some new people. Like guys, who can weld, bend pipe, and cut things with torches. LOL. They come in handy at these times. Some day I am going to take some type of basic welding course and learn the skills to do it myself. Feels like a skill I should have. Actually, just remembered my neighbor mentioning he had a bad *** high temp cutting torch(Plasma I think?). Have not asked him about his welding skills... I will check on it.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

any exhaust shop should be able to tac a nut on there, or maybe even get it out for minimal cost. never hurts to ask, worst they will say is no, and you are in the same position

Jim Stephens

Spoke to Vortech and they can ship a replacement tube for $90.00. Sometimes the best tool is your wallet. Done

KBoltz

I would say your right except:

When you have a friend with a plasma cutter and a full MIG/TIG welding setup - then your best tool is BEER and PIZZA.

Jim Stephens

After some conversation with the support guy at Vortech we have determined that the gear in the second picture is on backwards. The gear is asymmetrical, so there is a right way and a wrong way on there. This is causing it to not align with the Tension pulley and thus a full third of the belt was off of the gear facing. The previous owner had been running it this way (I have a video) for a long time. You can see the pulley is not flush with the shaft and looks incorrect as well. So, when I got the parts from original seller the belt that drives this pulley was very frayed as a result. The goal is to get this gear off, flip it around and put it on correctly. It will actually end up with 90 percent tracking on the "good" unused side of the pulley if all goes as planned. I may file it to be sure and or buy a new one. Either way I have to get this gear off(second picture still). The Vortech rep told me to break the bolt free on the other side (has the ribbed pulley picture one, which I have done) and I am assuming pull that off and I am guessing I can then pull the gear side out of the mount.? He then said to heat the pulley with a Map torch and since it is a aluminum it will expand and I should be able to easily just slide it off, then repeat the process to put back on the other way.

Here is my question.
Option 1. Do you think I can heat that gear pulley and use a couple of screwdrivers to pull it off as it sits on the metal plate right now? He said DO NOT use a gear puller on that side as it will damage the gear. Concerned that heating that pulley up while it is all still together may damage something else??
Option 2. If I need to, I can then get a gear puller and pull off the ribbed pulley off and I am guessing I can then pull it out from the other side. At that point I can then do the heating of the gear and removal process on the bench.

So Option1 is cheaper as I will not need a gear puller, but I am not certain if that will not damage the bearings or something. Option 2 is that I get geared puller and pull off the ribbed side and I guess I can then pull the gear and shaft out together from the other side.

Can I expect heating the aluminum will really make it pretty easy to get that gear off as he described or am I going to need a hammer to tap that shaft through?

travlee

iTrader: (8)

heating causes expansion, freezing causes contraction, i would spray some pb blaster in there and throw it in the freezer for a couple days