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heating causes expansion, freezing causes contraction, i would spray some pb blaster in there and throw it in the freezer for a couple days
I am completely buying that I can heat that aluminum gear and it will expand as this is coming straight from Vortech as the proper way to do it. My real question is will it damage anything if I heat that pulley where it sits currently and then see if I can pop it off with a couple of screw drivers for leverage under there. I am guessing there are some bearings in that middle assembly between the two gears that I might risk somehow damaging when I heat up the pulley. Or, I just will not be able to get the needed leverage that way. Vortech described it as coming off easily, but given how long it has been there...who knows I guess.
So, I should be able to pick up the Mapp gas and Amazon is getting me the head unit for it today. So, what the heck, I soaked the pulley last night and I will heat it up maybe this evening and see if it pops off. Worse case on this, I made need to buy a new gear(which would not be a bad idea). The new gear is roughly 100 bucks.
I was talking through this problem with a friend today and looking at a picture of it and we figured it out. There was no bolt present on the gear to hold it on. The gear then proceeded to walk itself off the shaft and that is why the alignment was off! You can see that in the first pic. You can also see the key is missing as well! The dang thing was just on there by friction.
The second picture is the good news. I got my Mapp gas torch, heated up the gear about 30 or so seconds and using two screw drivers I was able to pry the gear off with very little effort! Easiest thing I have done lately. Now I need a replacement bolt and a key to put it all back together. That gear stayed hot for 30 minutes and the shaft was cool instantly.
Last edited by Jim Stephens; 09-29-2020 at 03:11 PM.
I was talking through this problem with a friend today and looking at a picture of it and we figured it out. There was no bolt present on the gear to hold it on. The gear then proceeded to walk itself off the shaft and that is why the alignment was off! You can see that in the first pic. You can also see the key is missing as well! The dang thing was just on there by friction.
The second picture is the good news. I got my Mapp gas torch, heated up the gear about 30 or so seconds and using two screw drivers I was able to pry the gear off with very little effort! Easiest thing I have done lately. Now I need a replacement bolt and a key to put it all back together. That gear stayed hot for 30 minutes and the shaft was cool instantly.
This is good news. It looks like both could use a good cleaning. When you begin reassembly, I would make sure both surfaces are as clean as possible. I wouldn't use power sanding or anything since it is aluminum, but you want to get the galled aluminum off of the shaft and off of the inside of the cog. Also, what you are calling a gear is actually a cog pulley for the cog belt.
When you go to reassemble, it will be much easier if you put the part with the shaft in the freezer for a couple hours with the key in it and then put the cog in boiling water for a few minutes. You can see where the previous owner hammered the cog on and left hammer dents right on the center ring.
When you install the cog, if you have to use the bolt to pull the cog on, make sure to lube under the head of the bolt. Do not do it without lube or it will likely gall the aluminum. Once it is seated, remove the bolt and remove the lube with a wipe of acetone before reinstalling the bolt and torqueing to whatever the spec is.
I know nothing about keyway's, but I obviously need one given how the cog was missing it. I did measure the bolt, dia, thread count, and length and purchased the missing bolt. The washer used on the other side is about 3-4mm thick, 30mm diameter and a chamfered (sp?) edge. More than likely I will call Vortech tomorrow to get these parts, but if there is some place to purchase them directly off the web I am game.
Cleaned up and painted the supercharger. It was black already but a lot of metal showing through, so I just cleaned it up, normal amount of scuffing and cleaning the surface area and put some high temp paint on it. While not perfect, better than it looked before.
The goal for Saturday will be to install the y-pipe. If I decide to go for it, I might go ahead and install the new fuel pump as well. My son is super busy with school, so I told him he can work with me on a project as long as he reasonably can, but if he needs to break off to do homework that is the priority. Long as I get some amount of time with him under the car I am good. His availability to work with me will make things go more slowly as I am fine to wait for him to do a project.
Last edited by Jim Stephens; 10-01-2020 at 03:07 AM.
Gauges, I need stinking gauges. I have been pondering my to do list for parts to order. After much thought I have decided, I think, and subject to change, to do this in three phases. Phase 1 Y-pipe, fuel pump, Oil Pan spacer, cold plugs, uprev, supercharger,tune. Phase 2 Oil Cooler, maybe bigger injectors(E85), radiator, Phase 3 E85 set up. So, what I want to know is do I have an issue to fix before I start adding parts(Phase II). So gauges. I would like to keep the additional gauges in the cubby, but if push comes to shove I may put them on the side pillar. I think I need at least two gauges in there, Boost,and Oil /Water Temps. Here are the two gauges I am looking at for comment below. My thinking is the oil temp/water temp and the boost just to see what is actually going on with the air/fuel.
Keep in mind this is for a conservative build for around 350 - 400hp. Given this is a lower HP goal AND NOT turbo charged, I think my needs are going to be less than a 500-700hp turbocharger set up. Hence less heat issues and other items to deal with.
Last edited by Jim Stephens; 10-01-2020 at 04:58 AM.
Gauges, I need stinking gauges. I have been pondering my to do list for parts to order. After much thought I have decided, I think, and subject to change, to do this in three phases. Phase 1 Y-pipe, fuel pump, Oil Pan spacer, cold plugs, uprev, supercharger,tune. Phase 2 Oil Cooler, maybe bigger injectors(E85), radiator, Phase 3 E85 set up. So, what I want to know is do I have an issue to fix before I start adding parts(Phase II). So gauges. I would like to keep the additional gauges in the cubby, but if push comes to shove I may put them on the side pillar. I think I need at least two gauges in there, Boost,and Oil /Water Temps. Here are the two gauges I am looking at for comment below. My thinking is the oil temp/water temp and the boost just to see what is actually going on with the air/fuel.
Keep in mind this is for a conservative build for around 350 - 400hp. Given this is a lower HP goal AND NOT turbo charged, I think my needs are going to be less than a 500-700hp turbocharger set up. Hence less heat issues and other items to deal with.
I reallly like the looks of that second gauge afr, boost, and E85 content all in one. I am not sure how necessary the 1st guage is. While the stock temperature gauge is a bit of a dummy guage, as long as it is in the "normal" position you should be good. The owners manual calls out the "steps" in the guage. Oil temp is one that is important. For oil I logged my temp with uprev, and then compared that to the pressure on the display. While not perfect, I know that at idle my car shows 30-35 oil pressure when the temps are acceptable. When the temps are 230+ the oil pressure will nudge under to about 25 at idle. When the temps are less than 150 it will be about 40-45 psi at idle. This is what I use to keep an idea of oil temperature when driving. I don't have a gauge because I don't have room for an additional gauge.
Unfortunately, there appears to be no way to get oil temp from the OBDII interface on the 2005 model. Please correct me if I got that wrong, because I would prefer to just do it with uprev and the laptop just to get a "feel" for the temps and avoid buying the gauge.
Decided if I have gone to the trouble of pulling this Cog off, I am going to go ahead and replace it with with a new one ($110) and also a new hardware nuts and bolts set that mounts everything. Keeping a total on my spend on this supercharger to see how it works out, but I want things "right" that I work on, so I am going to replace what is needed as I go. Here is the parts accumulation going on. I believe I need to just buy 10 or more feet of 3/8" hose for the oil feed from the Supercharger to the pan and I think there is somewhere else I will need some hose as well. I have a new SS feed line from the oil filter location up to the supercharger inbound. I also guess I need some fitting(s) for the oil spacer to hook up the hose to the pan. Going to use the larger 3" tube as recommended with the original MAF sensor. That is inbound as well. Beside the gauges, anything else I may have missed? Odds are good I will be missing a part as I do this, but trying to get it all together.
Unfortunately, there appears to be no way to get oil temp from the OBDII interface on the 2005 model. Please correct me if I got that wrong, because I would prefer to just do it with uprev and the laptop just to get a "feel" for the temps and avoid buying the gauge.
I did some more digging and it looks like you are correct, only the HR cars have the oil temp sensor. That is a bummer. You could do something like this http://tyga-performance.com/product_...oducts_id=4918 if you want it small and run it into the center console. Finding room for gauges without doing an A pillar mount is a fight for space.
Discovering the joy of a Mapp gas torch and aluminum expansion. The seller sheared the two mounting bolts when he was de-installing. A bit of a pucker up drilling and then backing them out as a failure could mean a $400 dollar intercooler. I applied heat to the aluminum and these bolts came out like they were greased up or something. No problems at at all. I also got the Motordyne Y-Pipe installed. That project went very smoothly because you could eat off of the underside of this car and there is zero rust.
Next, the fuel pump which involves some careful drilling on the Venturi(sp?) and another opening for idle. Using this post as my guide. https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...rbo-build.html
From GreyZ post.... " When it came to drilling the venturi and the pressure relief regulator there was alot of guess work. I ended up doing area ratios and measuring the factory holes with some calipers to come to the conclusion of drilling the venturi with a .082" bit and the regulator to a .116" diameter. I dont have a way to log fuel pressure at the moment, so I validated this with data logs of cranking, idle and driving. "
I have an axle "click" on the driver side that really is annoying the heck out of me. I was thinking of paying the dealership to fix this, because I do not have a torque wrench that goes up to 177 ft lbs. Saw I can get one on Amazon for $50.00 and I already bought the special grease....so starting to think about doing it myself as I am sure any place would charge me way more than it would cost for me to do it even with having to buy a torque wrench. Pretty sure when I was messing with putting on the rear Nismo coil springs that I caused this fun to start with the axle.
Last edited by Jim Stephens; 10-04-2020 at 05:51 AM.
A good day installing the high flow fuel pump. Thanks to GreyZ for the drill bit sizes. Car idles and runs great! Had to do some trimming to the plastic piece that holds the fuel pump in place. Between the Y-pipe and fuel pump install this weekend the car is running better. Both mods are really for he supercharger install.
Update: The car really did "feel" like it performed better and had of course a different sound to it for the better. My logical side tells me it should not be much faster or not at all, but still happy with the projects and the results. My neighbor stopped me on the way in and pointed out replacing a 15 year old fuel pump with a high flow brand new one can make a difference. Maybe so. While I was doing the project I replaced the o-ring and also the rubber gasket that goes around the nozzle on the fuel pump. I would have never figured out where that nozzle gasket I got from Z1 one went, but luckily after pulling the new fuel pump in and out a few times it came loose of the plastic housing and came off on the fuel pump itself. A moment of, " oh, there it is", LOL. I did note that old nozzle gasket was puffed up a bit larger than the new one. Lost one screw putting back on the cover. Warning, you lose one of those and it falls off the ledge by the door and it is gone! Looks like they designed the fuel system with two levels. First cover is sealed, but should it leak it is contained and the vapor is vented out. The second cover is to keep all those bad vapors and smells out of the cabin if the first layer fails. At least that is how it appears to work. Pretty cool design.
Last edited by Jim Stephens; 10-05-2020 at 08:44 AM.
After a couple of weeks of thinking it over and talking with other Z owners, I decided to go ahead with new 750cc fuel injectors, radiator, and Oil Cooler. Texas summers can be brutal hot and I would like to go into the car once and get everything I would need installed to have it be correct. While I am running the car auto cross now, still may take it to the track down the road a bit. I know the fuel injectors are a bit on the large side for my HP goals, but I also may want to do the final steps to set it up to run E85 down the road and this will leave me in good shape on the fuel pump and injectors.
Last edited by Jim Stephens; 10-07-2020 at 05:49 PM.
Starting to feel that way. LOL. Never done any of it before, so it is kinda fun learning and putting it all together. Still working on where, who and how I will get it tuned after it is all put together. If you do not have a truck and car trailer that takes some extra planning.
09-28-2020, 10:39 AM
