This is in regards to the eManage Ultimate in my 04 Altima VQ35. The reason it's in this section is that I'm looking to boost my VQ in the near future and want to get the EU running solid before I make the switch from N/A to FI. Eric@CPRace did the installation and Sharif tuned it (Made the drive from Orlando -> Charlotte based on the recommendations of some of the 350z members here). That said, I have two outstanding issues that I need to solve before I move onto the next step and I'm hoping there are some people here who can shed some light on my situation.

EU 1.09/1.09

http://www.altimafaq.net/personal/th...s.php?album=20

Configuration
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http://www.altimafaq.net/eu/RaceDay.EM2

Run 1
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http://www.altimafaq.net/eu/Run1.lg2 (EU Log)
http://www.altimafaq.net/eu/Run1.log (Logworks 2 LC-1 Log)

Run 2
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http://www.altimafaq.net/eu/Run2.lg2 (EU Log)
http://www.altimafaq.net/eu/Run2.log (Logworks 2 LC-1 Log)

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Problem # 1: High RPM's causes excessive noise on what I think is my crank sensor which I'm picking up my RPMs on. This is throwing a lot of values out of whack and I believe this is a condition that is present from the factory for my car as you see the I/J inputs exhibit the same noisy symptoms. How can I clean this up and does anyone in the Z crowd ever experienced anything like this?

Problem # 2: While the car is in gear (sometimes it does it in neutral) and I let off the gas quickly and the revs drop, the exhaust makes a slight "pop" since the installation of the EU. I've had my custom exhaust on for more than a year and it never did such a thing, after the EU install it will pop once or twice after lifting off the gas pedal, the higher the RPMs the more pops will occur. This doesn't seem to be detonation as there isn't fuel present as the Nissan ECU cuts all fuel to the cylinders but I'm curious to why this happens since the installation of the EU.

Next Step: The temperature has been all over the place lately in FL so what's the best way to tackle the environment differences? I have the LC-1 correctly outputting the 0-5v signal to the EU so can I use the AFR Target Map (if so could someone briefly describe how to do this correctly?) or should I use a simple intake temperature map to increase / decrease fuel based on the values of the IAT?

Final Question: What AFR does the VQ like for maximum power? I've been keeping it around 13.0 as best as I can manually, should I change my goal of a 13.0 or leave it be.

I would appreciate any and all help you guys can provide. Sharif has been awesome with the support but as a first 3rd gen. Altima with the EU I expected minor issues such as these and I'm trying not to plague him with every little inconvenience.

Thanks,
Chris

 

we get the same noise in the rpm readings, I was thinking if the greddy rpm signal generator would fix this, since we would br getting the reading fron this box insted of the crank sensor.

 

http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/

You think this could clear it up?

 

yeah, that's the part Iam talking about.

 

Did you check into the signal wire shielding issue?

For max power on a N/A VQ you want 13.0 to 13.5. Really doesn't make much difference in that range as per the dyno testing I've done. Mine averages 13.0 to 13.2.

Hmm I wonder... it stands to reason the rpm signal extractor may fix some of the spikyness, however I'd tend to think that as far as immediate response in fuel and timing control the crank signal might be the best/most immediate source. If you could somehow fix the spikes I'd stick with that.. (see my first question

 

#1: Trying to see if the Z members encountered / solved this issue with a shielded wire, my guess is to replace the wire with a similar stranded / shielded gauge from the ECU / EU all the way to the sensor to keep it clean.

#3: Alright so the best bet is to keep the crank sensor going, makes sense.

 

Most definitely use the AFR Target Map. You check the box for the AFR map so that it shows up in the Map Tree and set the parameters in the AF Target map settings in the Parameter Settings menu. I would just set the temp from 0-120C on time for around 10s a low correction time like 50-100ms and a range of 5% for the correction. What you want to target is up to you. 13.0-13.5 for NA is a good area. What you would use as reference is up to you. throttle % is a good reference for load for NA. Then get on a dyno and tune. This map is made to help with temperature differences. Good luck. Hope I helped.

 

theking, thank you! Is this required to use a dyno or can I use my LC-1 / XD-1 to check it's behaving?

 

Yeah that will be fine but for maximum power the dyno is the only thing that will help you dial in the AF for the best results.