Barzten1

iTrader: (18)

All this time Sentry I thought you ditched the smaller pulley and went back to the 3.12. Could I do this and still be safe? Adding a radiator and oil cooler to keep the temps down. Also I always rum 1/3 race gas. Sending the blower off to get repaired on monday. Sticking with the Vortech. I love the instant power and the way it sounds.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

what would you recommend if im stuck with a ur underdrive pulley?

say you dont have another vehicle and you have to send a vortech part back for service. Can a intake be installed and run a utec map setup for the injectors be used to drive while the part is being fixed?

should you get it retuned with each additional mod?

is it true, tuner kit only carries a 1 yr warranty?

SupermanZ

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for taking time to do this.

Vash350Z

iTrader: (9)

Get an oem pulley

Yes, you can drive the car fine if you disconnect the gilmer belt.

Maybe, see if you A/F changes after the mod, if it does then you should consult your tuner.

Dunno

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

yeah I think you have a few options if you had to remove a part to send to vortech like the blower. I haven't ever had to, but I'm pretty sure you can put a stock OEM belt on the car and not even use any of the vortech pulleys. I wouldn't drive aggressively while doing this though. Other members have had more experience with that sorta thing, but yeah there's some options to get you back on the road while disconnecting the vortech

For troubleshooting purposes, you can always take off the small cog belt and then the blower will not turn. When you starting hearing a bad sound, that will help you zero in on if the noise is coming from the blower or one of the pulleys or a bearing like on the jackshaft unit (which is what turns the vortech)

The blower is about the only part I'd bother to ship back to vortech. Everything else like bearings and pulleys are pretty cheap and easier IMO to just replace.






glad to hear you're sticking with it Even though it's a hassle, I was thinking getting it fixed was probably your lowest cost option with the least amount of hassle even though having to send vortech the blower and then waiting isn't fun

no I started with the 3.12 pulley then switched to the 2.87 about 2 months later. I've had the 2.87 on since last summer

island03z

iTrader: (6)

my hero

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

i have a oem pulley with belts. couldnt get the ur off when i tried.

skaterbasist

iTrader: (3)

Wow, just an amazing write up. It answered many of my concerns, and has made me feel more confident about Vortech. Ofcourse, I won't be FI for maybe another 5 years

I really hope you don't mind, but I still have a few questions in mind. You might have already answered them, but the write up is very long. So I could have easily missed a question:

1) I noticed you really didnt get into the discussion of building/modifying the stock block for addtional safety. As far as I can see, the only internals you have done to the VQ is JWT Cams & plugs. You're running 485 WHP & 385 TQ; aren't you in some dangerous territory even with a good tune?

I plan on being anywhere near 475-450 WHP & 385-350 TQ. Not sure if this would do any help toward an SC, but as far as reaching mid to high 400 whp, would you reccomend getting lower compression pistons (ie 9:1)?

2) Im sure you might have already answered this, but lets say by the time im ready to buy a Vortech SC, and I already have most NA bolt-ons, ECU reflash, & buy a UTEC prior to the SC, would it be a waste of money to get the full kit? It seems more addequate to get the tuner kit if I already have the UTEC. Considering the above, the only thing left would be the fuel pump correct?

Excuse my noobness.

Excellent write up; you answered 95% of my questions!!!

.

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

thanks

yeah I'm pushing the stock block a little. You're right, the only thing I've done to my engine internally so far is JWT cams.


The key reasons I'm ok with running the power I am on the stock block are:
-racing gas - I always run at least a 50/50 mix of 91 and 101 octane gas
-water injection - cools the intake charge, further prevents detonation, and raises octane
-high quality engine management and good tune
-cooling mods like radiator, oil cooler, larger baffled oil pan, vented hood, high pressure radiator cap
-synthetic oil with checking oil levels often. Add oil as needed and change every 2000-3000 miles or more depending on how hard/often you drive
-gauges so I know what's going on

that said, I don't expect my engine to last forever or anything. The day will come when something gives out


obviously a built engine with lower compression pistons will be safer and stronger than the stock engine. For most people, I'd probably say to get 9-9.5 compression ratio pistons for a supercharged setup. It kinda depends on what gas you is available to you and if you run water injection or not. I'm thinking for me, when the day comes for me to go with a built engine, I might go with 10:1 or higher compression ratio since I run high octane gas usually anyway and I'm making due just fine with the stock 10.3:1 CR




if you already have all the NA mods and a UTEC, I'd skip the Full kit and get the Tuner kit. If you already have lots of breathing mods, just bolting the Full kit on is pretty much going to almost max out the Full kit's fuel system anyway
That and you'll have a SS box sitting around you'll have to sell for pocket change. Might as well get the Tuner kit which will be safer for the extra power you'll have

skaterbasist

iTrader: (3)

As of now, 100% of my questions are answered. Once again, thanks!

By the way, ever taken the Vortech Z to the drag strip?

Im assuming its your weekend/fun-only car, because I can't imagine using race gas considering our regular gas is high enough

.

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

hehe, well as gas prices keep rising, racing gas hasn't risen (knock on wood) so race gas becomes a "better" deal when pump prices are high - at least I keep telling myself that. And it's cheap engine insurance

but yeah it's not my daily driver

I haven't gone to the drag strip yet. I'm working on it. I'm getting a bearing fixed that went bad and somehow I gotta figure out a way to get a battery cut off switch on my car that's "visible from outside the car" since I relocated my battery to the rear. Those are the track rules

streetracer

iTrader: (1)

wow sentry, this is going to be my bible when I go FI. seriously considering the vortech. just have to finish paying off my car first.

iStan

iTrader: (29)

Any recommendations on replacing the bypass valve with an actual blow off valve?

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

nope
why does it need one?
IMO if it ain't broke, don't fix it

iStan

iTrader: (29)

True.

skaterbasist

iTrader: (3)

Hey Sentry, got a few more questions for you

I was really thinking...

Let's say I get a Vortech Tuner kit for my revup G35 and buy the necessary components for the fuel system.

But instead of purchasing an engine management system such as UTEC, I tune this setup with Technosquare via ECU reflash & dyno tune (which is also considered a EMS, right?).

Would you see any problem with this? I have never heard of anyone with a G/Z FI doing this.

I live about 30 minutes away from Technosquare, so if I could go that route, it would really be a good thing for me. Besides, getting a UTEC is seems somewhat pointless since I probably would not do the tuning myself.

Not only that, but TS offers that killer deal of an after reflash for only $150.

But this sounds too good to be true. There has to be some sort of problem with this idea. People are spending thousands for EMS like F-CON and 1000+ for UTEC. Spending around $800 with the reflash & dyno tune with TS sounds a bit fishy to me.

The only downside I see with going with only a TS reflash is the lack of flexibility & tuning "on-the-go", which isnt really an issue with me since I live so close to TS.

Sentry, thanks for any feedback. You've been of great help.

.

streetracer

iTrader: (1)

What about the Hydra EMS. It is a stand alone unit and you can manage the cams in closed loop to play with the power band.

booger

iTrader: (6)

The biggest problem trying to flash the ECU for the whole tune , is you will not be able to tune the fuel good enough . The cars ECU isnt made to handle boost and cant measure the air past a certain point

booger

iTrader: (6)

The Hydra , AEM , and Haltech are a few more good stand alones EMS's . They are good options for people not near a F-con dealer . Until a few of them are installed and running . We will not know if they are as good as the F-con . Im sure one , if not all of them are just as good .

streetracer

iTrader: (1)

I have heard the F-con does not touch the cams. Thats the competitive advantage of the Hydra.