booger

iTrader: (6)

I ended up using Ceramic and wrapped them with heat wrap .

Drewer

iTrader: (4)

I think the ceramic coated headers have the possibility to have the ceramic coating chip off and potentially lead to rust issues, or something like that. Yes, they are cheaper, and do dissipate heat better (I think?) but you can get stainless steel and jet hot coat them to make them more heat resistant. That is the most expensive route, but you don't have to deal with ceramic coating chipping, the insides will never rust, etc. But again, it comes down to cost versus usage/abuse. I'm gonna follow in my dad's footsteps and get jet hot coated headers. . .eventually. (See picture) Probably not blue tho.

350ZV3

iTrader: (3)

When people say TT has more torque then the S/C Vortech what are some real life comparable numbers or percentages? I'm strongly considering the S/C so I can keep the car as my daily driver but dont want to purchase somthing that wont make me happy and end up selling it for half the price.

Nexx

iTrader: (41)

the real life effect? the s/c's have more of linear N/A feel to it. TT's have unreal amount of "throw you back into the seat" feel. you'll see some people with more torque then horsepower on turbo'd cars. vortechs will normally have about 20 to 25% less torque vs whp.

XIceDragonX

Go with stainless steel headers if you plan on keeping the car for a while and don't feel like doing the same work twice. I had ceramic coated headers on my Eclipse and all they did was chip off, flake, than rust away... what a waste of money. You can always get the stainless headers treated or heat wrapped.

I have always heard that with the vortech/procharger or any S/C setup on the Z, when the temps outside are hot, you loose a bit of boost, and when it is really cold out, you gain a bit of boost. But with a turbo, the wastegates keep the boost the same no matter the conditions... is this right?

ZGLASS

iTrader: (8)

Vortech coming soon

full kit
utec
440cc
walbro
oil catch can
aps oil pan
3.12 pulley
what would be better radiator or oil cooler? I have test pipes and evo2 already.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

um, why get the full kit if your going to add a utec and 440cc/walbro. You spent 2k extra on the kit, should have went with the tuner kit which run from 3700 and up shipped as opposed to 5700.

since your upgrading your oil capacity with the aps pan (you should still tap the upper oil pan for the return line) id suggest going with a radiator upgrade. But, it may not be worth it unless you track your car alot or run in hot summers. Doesnt the aps pan have cooling fins? the upgraded capactiy will help to keep oil temps down as well.

Im thinking about getting an oil cooler for my vortech since im still using the stock pan, 5qts/

ZGLASS

iTrader: (8)

got full kit for 3000 guy i know bought it never put it on. so new full kit 3000. pretty sweet!

Drewer

iTrader: (4)

Nice deal. Where in WA are you? Triple8sol (pat) and I are in WA and both have vortechs now. Mine is still in the box, but Pat's is on.

Are you going to use the Vortech FMU setup with the full kit? If not, it was recommended to me to get 650cc injectors instead of than 440cc injectors unless you get a full return system. Reason being, you can possibly lean out since the 440 injector has a smaller spray footprint, but with 650cc you get a larger footprint which seems to work well. . . .Just another opinion.

Lastly, for CUxtopher: why still tap the oil pan when getting an APS oilpan that has return lines? I've herad conflicting opinions back and forth about this. I don't think Sentry tapped his upper oil pan, and I'd like to avoid it if possible. . .the JWT pan spacer comes pre-tapped, so I'd think that'd work too. . .

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

becuase the mechanics of tapping the upper part of the pan is better. There is not a pump for the oil return line. It is gravity fed. The pressure i nteh oil return line has to overcome the pressue in the oil pan. If the pressure in the line cannot overcome the pressure of the pan then you wont have circulation, or at least optimal circulation. The tap location greatly reduces the pressure and allows the drain line to circulate better.

now, if the aps pan comes with a tube that goes about the oil level in the pan then youll be ok.

Ever see one one of these?

ZGLASS

iTrader: (8)

What does fmu stand for? So 650cc is a better option? I live in edgewood/auburn, and you?

ZGLASS

iTrader: (8)

So do i need to tap the aps pan or not? I would like to not have to.

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

wasn't this all covered in the last page of this thread?

ZGLASS

iTrader: (8)

Oh sure was sorry! Didn't see that.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

aps pan is not required. But it will help lower your oil temps, increase capacity. You could use a spacer instead.

sentry, install that oil cooler yet? pm'ing abui01 now!

Drewer

iTrader: (4)

I don't think the height matters for the return line (Ha and Hb). Height matters for "head pressure" purposes, which only affects the pump. (I had to research all this stuff when I water cooled my computer.) Gravity driven return doesn't care from how high the parcel starts, unless there is blockage at the one end. If I understand you correctly, you are saying that the higher "tapped pan" has no resistance (point C on the diagram) versus the lower feed directly into the oil pan/spacer (point D) where oil resides, which could pose some resistance. I understand this could be a problem but am curious if it that big of an issue seeing as how both APS and the JWT oil pan spacers have the taps for the turbo oil return lines. With coking a risk with turbos, I'd think that any sort of oil heating/starvation issue would be a major no-no. Which brings me back to my dilemma, if it's good enough for them (and Sentry) should it be good enough for me? Maybe I'm over protective of my engine and SC. . .who knows. Any more experience from anyone else?

Sentry: not tapped, but if had to do it again, would.
CUX: tapped, per Vortech's directions.
Triple8sol: tapped (I think)
Me: debating. . .still LOL

Triple8Sol

iTrader: (218)

My kit actually isn't in yet. Removed the Stillen, and am back to bolt-ons right now. Have the Vortech install scheduled for about 2 weeks from now. Already tapped the oil pan, though. Also upgraded the drain hose to a ss braided line with anodized fittings. I didn't go with a spacer or larger pan b/c it wouldn't fit with the GT-Spec front lower tie brace.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

Its really a complex situation.

gotta factor in the pressure, which is also measured at the same general location that the vortech taps its oil from. But since its a closed loop, will there be a pressure differential between the return and pickup? Try blowing air into both ends of a straw at the same time. You wont get any flow, pressure will equallize and youll get read in the face. Since there isnt a inline pump for the vortech lines, then pressure wont cause flow becuase its pushing at both ends. Move the return above/higher in the oil line and youll have a pressure difference. Are the two pans separated by a chamber?

heat, plays a factor to how well oil flows. The oil from the vortech should be hotter and flow flaster so maybe itll flow that way into the pan and cause circulation?

Density, does oil expand when heated and become less dense causing it to flow into the oil pan causing circulation? how much? enough? efficient at low temps?

Again this is all speculation, id need to see how the pans are desinged with baffles,flow valves and the locations of the pickup/drain.

So why speculate all day, just tap the upper oil pan and know that its installed per vortech and that your 3yr warranty will be approved.

sentry65

iTrader: (11)

my thinking was that if the blower is sucking up oil from the pan and then sending the oil back to the pan from the blower, that the pressure from sucking the oil into the blower in the first place should be enough to push the oil out of the blower and back into the pan since it's going to be sucking in more oil on the other end. The oil will be forced to go somewhere and it'll come out into the oil pan


what happens when you put your thumb on the end of a water hose? does less water come out or does the same amount of water come out, only harder due to the higher pressure?????

think about it...
if anything, it probably just means the oil shoots out back into the oil pan at a faster rate - which might even promote the cold and hot oil temps mixing better

IMO, the oil is going to recirculate one way or another
I don't think your car will blow up or anything if you use the APS pan's taps. Besides, your oil temp gauge won't lie to you. The vortech blower won't cook the oil like a turbo, but if it was really a problem I'd think I would notice a huge spike in oil temps on my oil temp gauge somehow eventually in the 1 and 1/3 year I've had the vortech on my car



and hell, recirculating the oil from the upper pan just means the hotter oil will be picked back up by the blower due to where the vortech's oil pickup is in a higher position. The APS oil pan and oil cooler are the only things that are going to cool the oil. So running the hotter oil at the bottom of the pan and transfering the heat into the heat fins of the APS pan might not be so bad

APS pan:

ZGLASS

iTrader: (8)

So 15 months with no problems that sound good to me! I think I'll try the aps tap.