vortech FAQ: read this before asking vortech questions
The full vortech kit is the simplest and cheapest option.
With the tuner kit there is no fuel management unit that increases fuel pressure and adds another pump therefore the tuner kit will not support the extra power unless you purchase a larger fuel pump (walbro 255) and larger injectors (440cc will work).
The full vortech kit is the simplest and cheapest option.
With the tuner kit there is no fuel management unit that increases fuel pressure and adds another pump therefore the tuner kit will not support the extra power unless you purchase a larger fuel pump (walbro 255) and larger injectors (440cc will work).
With the tuner kit there is no fuel management unit that increases fuel pressure and adds another pump therefore the tuner kit will not support the extra power unless you purchase a larger fuel pump (walbro 255) and larger injectors (440cc will work).
Reason I don't want the turnkey kit is the EMS, Uprev gives other benefits as well with torque control and things and is much easier to manage.
Regards Micael
I'm not sure that the stock injectors and fuel pump can handle 350hp. The reason the stock fuel pump and injectors handle it WITH the vortech FMU is because it adds an inline pump and increases the fuel pressure.
So you will need larger injectors and a walbro 255 fuel pump if you don't use any other type of fuel setup. I know that stock injectors will be too small at stock fuel pressure but "maybe" the stock pump will handle slightly larger injectors. If it was me I would not risk it though with walbro 255 costing only 90$.
So with a tuner setup I would put a walbro 255 and 440cc DW injectors in the car. That would be a good solid setup.
So you will need larger injectors and a walbro 255 fuel pump if you don't use any other type of fuel setup. I know that stock injectors will be too small at stock fuel pressure but "maybe" the stock pump will handle slightly larger injectors. If it was me I would not risk it though with walbro 255 costing only 90$.
So with a tuner setup I would put a walbro 255 and 440cc DW injectors in the car. That would be a good solid setup.
Thanks Binder, I agree with you. I am just trying to figure out why things might not work, he really wanted just 300 rwhp and for that I think he would be fine, but I will still recommend at least the Walbro 255. I have other injectors if he wants and my own designed and CNC milled fuel rails, so that shouldn't be a problem.
Now I just have to decide what to do with my car on stock block and 5AT with oil-cooler and TransGo kit, how far can I take it. Better go back and read the first page postings again
Now I just have to decide what to do with my car on stock block and 5AT with oil-cooler and TransGo kit, how far can I take it. Better go back and read the first page postings again
Has anyone come up with any brilliant way to install a 'proper' pipe from the intercooler to the TB?
Mainly, I'd like to find a way to eliminate the dented, 'just fits' cast piece..
I have NO idea how I'd do this short of hacking the inner fender area up, which isn't the worst idea as long as it's plotted.
Just thought I'd ask, obviously this won't be a easy job either way.
If it matter's I'll be running maf-less.
Mainly, I'd like to find a way to eliminate the dented, 'just fits' cast piece..
I have NO idea how I'd do this short of hacking the inner fender area up, which isn't the worst idea as long as it's plotted.
Just thought I'd ask, obviously this won't be a easy job either way.
If it matter's I'll be running maf-less.
There is a pretty awesome DIY for a cai for the vortech kit in the DIY section by SamMcgoo. My question is this: Any of you G35 guys do this on your vortech kit? This would require cutting a pretty large hole in the radiator core support in a spot that seems somewhat structural. Images for g35 - 350z comparison:
on a G35, just get a 3.5" 90* silicon bend and put the filter in front of the tire behind the mesh opening in the grill.
no reason to cut anything. Cost me like 20$ to make mine.
no reason to cut anything. Cost me like 20$ to make mine.
+1. I've seen two G35s that have intakes run through the core support. I believe GTM's tt kit also routes one of the intake pipes that way. Its fine structurally, but you have to bend a bunch of A/C lines out of the way which keeps most folks from attempting it. Like str8dum1 said, putting the intake under the headlight / in front of the wheel is much simpler.
Just have to watch out for big puddles / rain with it down in the wheel well... I was actually mulling putting thru the core support but yeah, those damn AC lines look omnious in there and if I damaged them I would be SOL here in AZ... Wonder if there is a re-route kit or how hard it would be to just re-route them to do that... Would make changing that damn filter a heck of alot easier as well going on top of the intercooler...
no you dont. you have a fender liner and undertray, so no extra water is even introduced. it gets the exact same road spray as putting it on top of the intercooler.
Just have to watch out for big puddles / rain with it down in the wheel well... I was actually mulling putting thru the core support but yeah, those damn AC lines look omnious in there and if I damaged them I would be SOL here in AZ... Wonder if there is a re-route kit or how hard it would be to just re-route them to do that... Would make changing that damn filter a heck of alot easier as well going on top of the intercooler...
You obviously have not driven in AZ during monsoon season... I'm not talking just a little sprinkle or even a steady rain, yeah that is no problem but as soon as you are introduced to standing water and puddles up to your doors and 1/2 way up your front bumper hydrolock becomes a problem... Fender liners and undertrays become useless at that point and it's just better to leave it in the garage during those storms.
If you get water over the entire filter in that location then you have bigger things to worry about since water will be filling up most of your interior at that point.
If you are stupid enough to drive in water that is 9+" deep (because thats the lowest point of the filter mounted the way I had it) then its your own fault if you ruin your motor.
That is not a concern of anyone driver with a shred of common sense.
That is not a concern of anyone driver with a shred of common sense.
Maybe the way you mounted it was Stupid...
Common Sense would tell you, don't mount it Down low.......
Mount it as High as you can.....and avoid the problem all together, it's just common sense.
The Bottom of My Filter is @ 19 inches, and my car is lowered an 1-1/2".
If you ever Lived in Arizona like I have, you would know that Flash Floods can pop up in an instant, leaving you with little chose, but to drive thru 8-10 inches of water, or just sit there and wait for many hours for it to clear, Because there is no other Fuucking way to get home.
Arizona Requires a High Mounted Filter....
Common Sense would tell you, don't mount it Down low.......
Mount it as High as you can.....and avoid the problem all together, it's just common sense.
The Bottom of My Filter is @ 19 inches, and my car is lowered an 1-1/2".
If you ever Lived in Arizona like I have, you would know that Flash Floods can pop up in an instant, leaving you with little chose, but to drive thru 8-10 inches of water, or just sit there and wait for many hours for it to clear, Because there is no other Fuucking way to get home.
Arizona Requires a High Mounted Filter....






