vortech FAQ: read this before asking vortech questions
06-27-2007, 02:43 PM
#61
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Drewer: It'll be nice to have another local boosted Z/G. Your setup sounds very similar to what I'll have going on.
I needed more power, so I'm taking out out my Stillen S/C, and throwing in the Vortech S/C. A few parts carry over, most will not. Here's the setup I've got planned right off the bat. I have all the parts here already, just waiting for my mechanic to have some spare time.
Already installed:
Walbro 255 (I also have the in-line Vortech fuel pump, but won't be using it)
1 step colder NGK Iridiums
3 Gauges: AEM UEGO wideband A/F, Autometer Boost and Oil Pressure
Topspeed headers
Invidia G200 td exhaust
New:
Vortech tuner kit
3.12 pulley
RC 440cc's
UTEC w/MAP sensor and wideband tuner
Topspeed oil catch can
'06 lower collector
Crawford V5 plenum
I plan to tap the stock oil pan, no spacer or replacement. I may do some test pipes or HFC's down the road, and possibly an oil cooler as well.
So am I missing anything?
Does this setup sound good, even without a return fuel system?
I needed more power, so I'm taking out out my Stillen S/C, and throwing in the Vortech S/C. A few parts carry over, most will not. Here's the setup I've got planned right off the bat. I have all the parts here already, just waiting for my mechanic to have some spare time.
Already installed:
Walbro 255 (I also have the in-line Vortech fuel pump, but won't be using it)
1 step colder NGK Iridiums
3 Gauges: AEM UEGO wideband A/F, Autometer Boost and Oil Pressure
Topspeed headers
Invidia G200 td exhaust
New:
Vortech tuner kit
3.12 pulley
RC 440cc's
UTEC w/MAP sensor and wideband tuner
Topspeed oil catch can
'06 lower collector
Crawford V5 plenum
I plan to tap the stock oil pan, no spacer or replacement. I may do some test pipes or HFC's down the road, and possibly an oil cooler as well.
So am I missing anything?
Does this setup sound good, even without a return fuel system?
Last edited by Triple8Sol; 06-27-2007 at 02:47 PM.
06-28-2007, 02:05 PM
#62
I'd go with 1 step colder plugs in just about all cases for FI
as far as tapping the upper oil pan or a spacer, that's a debate. IMO tapping the upper oil pan probably is the better method, but it's easier to tap a spacer or use an oil pan that already has an extra oil line feed. I went with an APS oil pan and am using its oil tap. When the day comes that I build my engine, I'll probably do it the normal way and have the upper oil pan tapped.
I'm not too worried about having the line go to the lower oil pan though. So far so good on my car. I use synthetic oil which probably moves a little easier than normal oil, especially when hot/warm. I take it really easy when it's cold outside and won't get on the throttle hard until the oil temps reach at least 140 degrees. The only time it can be an issue to do any real damage to the blower is when you get on the throttle hard anyway.
as far as tapping the upper oil pan or a spacer, that's a debate. IMO tapping the upper oil pan probably is the better method, but it's easier to tap a spacer or use an oil pan that already has an extra oil line feed. I went with an APS oil pan and am using its oil tap. When the day comes that I build my engine, I'll probably do it the normal way and have the upper oil pan tapped.
I'm not too worried about having the line go to the lower oil pan though. So far so good on my car. I use synthetic oil which probably moves a little easier than normal oil, especially when hot/warm. I take it really easy when it's cold outside and won't get on the throttle hard until the oil temps reach at least 140 degrees. The only time it can be an issue to do any real damage to the blower is when you get on the throttle hard anyway.
06-28-2007, 02:44 PM
#63
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Originally Posted by sentry65
as far as tapping the upper oil pan or a spacer, that's a debate. IMO tapping the upper oil pan probably is the better method, but it's easier to tap a spacer or use an oil pan that already has an extra oil line feed. I went with an APS oil pan and am using its oil tap. When the day comes that I build my engine, I'll probably do it the normal way and have the upper oil pan tapped.
I'm not too worried about having the line go to the lower oil pan though. So far so good on my car. I use synthetic oil which probably moves a little easier than normal oil, especially when hot/warm. I take it really easy when it's cold outside and won't get on the throttle hard until the oil temps reach at least 140 degrees. The only time it can be an issue to do any real damage to the blower is when you get on the throttle hard anyway.
I'm not too worried about having the line go to the lower oil pan though. So far so good on my car. I use synthetic oil which probably moves a little easier than normal oil, especially when hot/warm. I take it really easy when it's cold outside and won't get on the throttle hard until the oil temps reach at least 140 degrees. The only time it can be an issue to do any real damage to the blower is when you get on the throttle hard anyway.
Thanks for the input!
06-28-2007, 03:06 PM
#64
i don't think the oil really gets blocked with the lower pan tapping. It might have a little more resisitance. Either way, if it's horrible to do it that way, I'll let everyone know when my blower dies, but I'm not going to change it unless theirs a problem
All you need to do is turn the car every so often and the oil in the oil pan sloshes around so much anyway - especially when you're talking about warm/hot synthetic oil vs cold sludgy dino oil which is probably what vortech assumed people would use in a worse case scenerio.
If I were to do it over again, I'd just tap the upper pan though
All you need to do is turn the car every so often and the oil in the oil pan sloshes around so much anyway - especially when you're talking about warm/hot synthetic oil vs cold sludgy dino oil which is probably what vortech assumed people would use in a worse case scenerio.
If I were to do it over again, I'd just tap the upper pan though
06-29-2007, 01:56 PM
#67
Originally Posted by CUxtopher
need info on the 34 tooth cog pulley. what other sizes are available and which belt will i need.
In fact if you did have one . Its harder than hell to get on with out taking off the jackshaft or the bracket . And runs really close to the cam sensor
Last edited by booger; 06-29-2007 at 01:58 PM.
06-29-2007, 02:53 PM
#71
Originally Posted by CUxtopher
what do you mean by 3x as wide? the site says its for a 350z setup.
Why would the vette need a pulley that long.
Why would the vette need a pulley that long.
07-17-2007, 12:13 PM
#73
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Nice write up . . . I'm starting my research on FI kits & by far, the Vortech SC tuner kit is the one I'm strongly considering (mostly since I autocross my Z and do not necessarily need the TT power). I'll continue to track this thread & keep learning from other members' input. When the time comes, this thread will be my "bible" in installing my SC setup.
07-18-2007, 04:10 PM
#74
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This is a great write-up.
Question: I have the stock kit now and want to upgrade to the 3.12 pulley. Vortech makes 3.12 pulleys with different # of ribs. Which one do I get and what belt do I need?
Question: I have the stock kit now and want to upgrade to the 3.12 pulley. Vortech makes 3.12 pulleys with different # of ribs. Which one do I get and what belt do I need?
07-18-2007, 04:13 PM
#75
Originally Posted by 35X
This is a great write-up.
Question: I have the stock kit now and want to upgrade to the 3.12 pulley. Vortech makes 3.12 pulleys with different # of ribs. Which one do I get and what belt do I need?
Question: I have the stock kit now and want to upgrade to the 3.12 pulley. Vortech makes 3.12 pulleys with different # of ribs. Which one do I get and what belt do I need?
Not to be a D-ck . But did you try counting te ribs on the pulleys ????? to find out ????
07-19-2007, 03:09 PM
#77
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Originally Posted by sentry65
-yes headers help the vortech breath better. Get them HPC or jet-hot coated if possible - that makes a big difference. Get a stainless steel clutch line for you 6MT people with headers - or you'll boil your clutch fluid when driving hard or when it's hot
I have always wondered and searched regarding this issue, but have not gotten a clear answer.
Regarding headers, I usually see manufacturers have two types of header materials: Stainless Steal, which are more expensive, or Ceramic Coated, which are usually $150 cheaper.
Will the Stainless Steel headers do the job just fine in regards to heat & the Vortech? I'm assuming that SS is the way to go over Ceramic... I just don't see why the SS's would be more expensive if they weren't better.
I'm thinking about going with the Strup headers which are Stainless Steel, or possibly with the DC Sport Headers in SS over Ceramic.
I just want to make sure I do my decision in regards to headers right so it will not have a negative affect in the future for a Vortech.
Thanks Sentry.
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07-19-2007, 03:34 PM
#78
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I think I heard the ceramic were better for heat purposes and of course you would want to cut every corner when it comes to keeping things cool. The stainless would be nice but you can't hardly see the headers in the Z for it to matter much less polish them.
07-19-2007, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Barzten1
I think I heard the ceramic were better for heat purposes and of course you would want to cut every corner when it comes to keeping things cool. The stainless would be nice but you can't hardly see the headers in the Z for it to matter much less polish them.
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