05Z33

iTrader: (11)

With the above mentioned setup; you should be just fine reaching your goal of 500whp. The T-trim is not overkill by any means. You're running 91 or 93 pump gas right?

4SHIZZIL

iTrader: (10)

i did it with 10.3.1 stock compression 480ish RWHP. I cant speak above that...


get the 4.5 inch think Treadstone FMIC its like 30 bucks more for 300hp in reserve.

my two cents.... this is my third FMIC.

should of went big the first time.

Classy

iTrader: (7)

I guess I may just be being overly cautious. Maybe I should just go for the T-Trim with all of the above modifications. Of course I am running 93!! Do you think 850cc injectors is too big?

T4RUSAF

iTrader: (2)

For anybody listening,

Do you know of any differences between the 03 vs 04 SS box map for the G35? Reason I ask is because between the two years everything is identical minus the maps loaded.

Not looking to make crazy power, I'd be happy with the factory number from vortech. Then upgrade at a later date and time. So, I am wanting to run the vortech kit as is from vortech for a while

Also, a long shot, but does anyone have the base map for an 04 G35 SS box?

Thanks gentlemen, as everyone pointed out this thread is extremely helpful

4SHIZZIL

iTrader: (10)

yeah when I switched to the T Trim I didnt gain but a few horse and about 10ft TQ, but the power came on about 1500 rpms sooner.

so its not much diff than stock, and if rpms can be increased, not much at all in the end really. Not sifgnificant anyways.

binder

iTrader: (8)

never such thing as too big. You can always run a larger pulley for less boost, can't ever make a small component work more than it's built though

11:1 compression won't reduce power. Tons of platforms use high compression on superchargers. It requires less timing and boost to produce the same hp. So you will just run less timing and boost to reach your 500hp goal on it. No big deal.

Classy

iTrader: (7)

I know 11:1 won't reduce power, infact it SHOULD do the opposite. I know you can't say, this guy made 240 hp before his supercharger and I have 300hp, so I should make 60 more HP, but after looking at those 2 guys dyno graphs, holy crap, with just a 3.33 pulley on a SCi or Si, I might be right at my goal with the right setup. But, I would probably run a 3.13 to make sure. Those dyno's make it seem like I am making it out to be harder than it will be!

So, where are the weaknesses in the setup, not only in the supercharger setup itself, but in the car, and what improvements and or suggestions do you guys have.

05Z33

iTrader: (11)

I think your setup is going to rock as is. Go for the T-trim. As for improvements I would recomend getting the power to stick to the ground. Pick up an LSD, and some good rubber (R888), and have some fun. I look forward to seeing a Vortech build with 11:1 compression.

Classy

iTrader: (7)

I am doing an OS Giken 1.5 way diff, I think my stock VLSD is coming to an end of it's life.

binder

iTrader: (8)

really? i've been over 500hp for 2 years with drag tires and now 650hp and drag tires and i think my stock rear end is still very strong.

can you make a thread with your setup and then put a link to it in here? then we can see all the stuff to evaluate if there is anything you need to upgrade.

tires/clutch definitely need attention at the power level you want.

Classy

iTrader: (7)

I have a thread in the N/A section, it seems like traction is worse and the tail end wags back and forth a bit now too.

https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/5...ing-money.html

Here is a list from my garage

Fujita intake
Z1 Angled plenum spacer
Polished TB
Ported upper plenum, drilled out 6 inner screw holes and had plates welded in
Ported lower plenum and lower manifold
ATI Fluid Dampner
Dyno Tuned by Uprev 292hp/265tq @ 106 degrees outside
OBX Long Tube Headers
HKS knock off Exhaust
JWT Clutch/Flywheel
TWM Short Shifter (most likely selling)
Weisco 11:1 ceramic/moly coated
Eagle rods
JWT C8 cams/springs and retainers
3 Angle Valve job
Balanced and Blueprinted
Rev Up oil pump
Bored .020 over
CD009 swap
ATI Fluid Dampner

Suspension Modifications:

Stance GR+ True Coilovers
Jason ZA Toe arms/lockout washers for toe and camber
Kinetix Rear Camber Arms
Ichiba Front Upper Control Arms
Stillen Sway Bars
SPL solid diff bushings
Whiteline Front lower control arm bushings and lower shock mount bushings
Wilwood 14' 6 piston Front 12.66' 4 Piston Rear BBK

Wheels/Tires Modifications:

XXR 521 18x10+25
265/35/18 F (will be 275/35/18 next time I change tires)
275/40/18 R (will be 295/35/18 next time I change tires)

Mods before supercharger:

Ditching the Knock off HKS exhaust for a Motordyne XYZ w/cat, and 3inch AAM singe exhuast
OS Giken 1.5 LSD
Nismo Diff cover
Mizu Radiator/shroud
HR coolant mod (when it is released)
Oil cooler

Classy

iTrader: (7)

I have been doing some more research and I am finding that you guys have led me on a good track as far as brands and part choices, I am feeling more confident and even more excited about the upcoming project

T4RUSAF

iTrader: (2)

A question for the pros.

I'm torn between getting an fuel return system for my setup or not. Basically I have a V3 kit, 3.12 pulley, 570cc injectors, walbro, and Osiris tune. This is all in the closet. The car has mrev spacer, fuji exhaust, y-pipe, and Berk cats. I've been reading and can't get a definitive answer about the FRS. Is it necessary for my mod list above?

A FRS kit isn't a cheap mod, but I want a solid performing FI setup. But I've read that a FRS setup isn't necessary for anything below 400whp. (I don't think my setup will break 400hp).

What is all your guys' opinions? Should I get a FRS? If I didn't, I wanted to pickup a set of aftermarket headers to install before the tune. What do you all think?

4SHIZZIL

iTrader: (10)

Im not an expert but the cost of headers is wat more than a stage zero frs.

Considering pullies are cheap to add boost, you will go over 400 eventually.I ranmy set up w out a frs upto 460rwhp.

But I have 600HP fmiC, nismo thermostat, and test pipes.

Headers are not needed in my opinion and youll get more HP/boost w OEM manifolds anyways.

T4RUSAF

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the insight. If I get a good deal on a used FRS from another member I may bite since the OEM manifolds are good. I know I won't see more HP with the FRS, but my tuner may have an easier time and can produce a better map for my setup w/ one.

As for headers, I've heard that DC sports headers are decent especially if your FI'd. Those other headers like momentum are just out of my price range.

jpc350

TR4USAF

Headers will allow the engine to breath better and some modest gain can be expected. Mine did..As for the RFS, it is not an absolute necessity. Many, many, similar set ups have not had problems...If you want some additional peace of mind and or plan to upgrade , they would help..If you decide to go with a RFS only get a stage 0 as has been mentioned and use your oem fuel rails. Finer tune and lower IDC should result.

binder

iTrader: (8)

ya, vac map is easier to dial in with a RFS because the fuel pressure can stay lower. On top of that you will get the true flow rate of those injectors with a rising rate FPR.

At the power level you are shooting for it shouldn't be an issue but at the same time for 400hp headers are a huge cost that won't really do a lot for you. if you are running test pipes you might get some sound out of it but that's about it.

Installing headers with engine in car is a nightmare. I won't do it ever again. I can pull and engine, install headers, and have the engine back in with about the same amount of time. Expect to pay 400-500$ for a shop to do them.

T4RUSAF

iTrader: (2)

Thanks gentlemen for the replies. It looks like headers aren't worth the trouble unless my motor is already out. Even with a vortech, it sounds like the gains do NOT outweigh the pains of installing them. I will end my thoughts with that.

As for the RFS, sounds like its a added insurance for those who can afford it. Since the tune is all about your fuel mixtures at any given point on the map, I might as well invest in something that makes it easier to dial-in. Thanks

6MTG354ME

iTrader: (5)

Just an FYI for you guys. If the bearings go on the idler pulleys and you get squealing from your SC, here is some great info:

Idler Pulleys from Vortech:
4FH016-150 is the part number for the 3" Smooth Idler Pulley - $28.95
4GF016-160 is the Part# for the 3" 6-Ribbed Idler Pulley - (Discontinued from Vortech) - $41.95
Calling Vortech, they said the website lists it as discontinued, However it is not, and is live in their system.

BETTER OPTION:
Go to NAPA Auto Parts
209754 is the part number for the 3" Smooth Idler Pulley - $14.99
209751 is the Part# for the 3" 6-Ribbed Idler Pulley - $21.99

This way you dont have to wait for it in the mail and can save some money!
Hope this helps.

TSG-Z

iTrader: (34)

Looks like I've outgrown the V2! I'm trying to put down 500whp, dont know what else to do aside from the V3! Any suggestions?