vortech FAQ: read this before asking vortech questions
#1702
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Interesting, I wasnt aware that Vortech had a trade in program. I purchased my kit from the Group buy a few years from apparently a defective batch. It was a rebuilt blower upgraded to a Si trim I believe.
#1703
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Here you go...
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...change Program
And if you truly have an Si blower, you should be in the mid to high 400whp level at this point, unless you're not running an aggressive enough pulley setup.
http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...change Program
And if you truly have an Si blower, you should be in the mid to high 400whp level at this point, unless you're not running an aggressive enough pulley setup.
Last edited by 350z006; 01-31-2012 at 07:08 AM.
#1704
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This might be a dumb question, but I'm not too familiar with superchargers.
Does the V2 SCi offer higher potential power than a V3 SCi blower? Saying both are running 2.87? It seems like the flow rates are the same on Vortech's site.
But they don't make a V3 T-trim right?
Does the V2 SCi offer higher potential power than a V3 SCi blower? Saying both are running 2.87? It seems like the flow rates are the same on Vortech's site.
But they don't make a V3 T-trim right?
#1706
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I would start with upgrading the wheel to an SI. I have the V2 with SI wheel and a 3.33 stock pulley and Im pulling 444whp/386wtq. And on 100 octane im doing 462/380. Im sure I can break the 500 mark with just going with a 3.12 or 2.87 pulley but, I wont consider because im still on a stock block. But if you have a build engine I say go with the 2.87 and SI. This is probably your cheapest route!
#1708
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Just an FYI for you guys. If the bearings go on the idler pulleys and you get squealing from your SC, here is some great info:
Idler Pulleys from Vortech:
4FH016-150 is the part number for the 3" Smooth Idler Pulley - $28.95
4GF016-160 is the Part# for the 3" 6-Ribbed Idler Pulley - (Discontinued from Vortech) - $41.95
Calling Vortech, they said the website lists it as discontinued, However it is not, and is live in their system.
BETTER OPTION:
Go to NAPA Auto Parts
209754 is the part number for the 3" Smooth Idler Pulley - $14.99
209751 is the Part# for the 3" 6-Ribbed Idler Pulley - $21.99
This way you dont have to wait for it in the mail and can save some money!
Hope this helps.
Idler Pulleys from Vortech:
4FH016-150 is the part number for the 3" Smooth Idler Pulley - $28.95
4GF016-160 is the Part# for the 3" 6-Ribbed Idler Pulley - (Discontinued from Vortech) - $41.95
Calling Vortech, they said the website lists it as discontinued, However it is not, and is live in their system.
BETTER OPTION:
Go to NAPA Auto Parts
209754 is the part number for the 3" Smooth Idler Pulley - $14.99
209751 is the Part# for the 3" 6-Ribbed Idler Pulley - $21.99
This way you dont have to wait for it in the mail and can save some money!
Hope this helps.
good shizzil man!
Im trying to add more bite on the blower to reduce pull on my crank. I just saw a crank bearing that came out of a SC car that was on too tight for too long. The upper side was worn due to excessive pressure from squeezing the crap out of the belt. Im looking to get a larger pulley on the smooth pulley next to my blower pulley. Hoping the 3.5 works!
Changing pulley next to blower. Thoughts anyone?@!??!?!?!$!@?!?! Have to check on how much room I have for the cam housings....but a half inch either way should work. My set up has 2.5inch smooth idler pulleys on now.
![](http://g35driver.com/forums/attachments/archived-sales/99226d1229247505-feeler-polished-rev-up-vortech-kit-cimg3099.jpg)
Last edited by 4SHIZZIL; 01-31-2012 at 11:06 AM.
#1709
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^I concur.... The V2 just uses the oil from the car and its a little more labor intensive due to the return oil feed line.
I would start with upgrading the wheel to an SI. I have the V2 with SI wheel and a 3.33 stock pulley and Im pulling 444whp/386wtq. And on 100 octane im doing 462/380. Im sure I can break the 500 mark with just going with a 3.12 or 2.87 pulley but, I wont consider because im still on a stock block. But if you have a build engine I say go with the 2.87 and SI. This is probably your cheapest route!
I would start with upgrading the wheel to an SI. I have the V2 with SI wheel and a 3.33 stock pulley and Im pulling 444whp/386wtq. And on 100 octane im doing 462/380. Im sure I can break the 500 mark with just going with a 3.12 or 2.87 pulley but, I wont consider because im still on a stock block. But if you have a build engine I say go with the 2.87 and SI. This is probably your cheapest route!
#1711
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update my sc is not slipping its the crank.
so doing a crank adjstment. Removing the pulley that is not used and adding a smooth pulley then another bottom of the bracket thats ribbed. It will wrap my crank like 80%. lol
the CF driveshaft just makes it spin way too fast!
LOL
i think this is a good problem to have. lol
22psi on the street
hard pressed to get 19 on the dyno.. freggin dyno dynamics load is a beast I guess.
so doing a crank adjstment. Removing the pulley that is not used and adding a smooth pulley then another bottom of the bracket thats ribbed. It will wrap my crank like 80%. lol
the CF driveshaft just makes it spin way too fast!
LOL
i think this is a good problem to have. lol
22psi on the street
hard pressed to get 19 on the dyno.. freggin dyno dynamics load is a beast I guess.
Last edited by 4SHIZZIL; 02-06-2012 at 10:31 AM.
#1712
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I'm debating to go with ATI but being that there isn't much support for them I might just go Vortech, still on the fence as I really do like the Prochargers. Anyways can someone explain to me why is it that on this clip this guys Vortech setup sounds so much more diffenent compared to many other Votrechs, besides the actual blower sound/bpv it seems that its having compression surge as well as whats sounds to be a GReddy Type S BOV and not a BPV... Or is this in fact what they sound like? Sorry know a good bit about ATI not so with Vortech.
http://www.streetfire.net/video/vid-...ttle_87992.htm
http://www.streetfire.net/video/vid-...ttle_87992.htm
#1716
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I did notice you have a goodyear gatorback belt on there. No matter how tight i had the good year it always slipped. I had zero slip on the gates belt.
#1717
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Im leaning towards the V1 kit so if someone here is selling shoot me a pm please!
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#1718
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quick question for the Cali guys.
Im in Cali and need to be able to pass smog. Those that run the ss box, is there anyway to tell it has been tuned or modified? From my understanding, if it is modified it is no longer considered CARB legal.
Also, is the box labeled for a 350z? I think I saw one that said "G35." So that would mean that if it doesn't say 350Z than it wouldn't pass smog or a smog reff?
Im in Cali and need to be able to pass smog. Those that run the ss box, is there anyway to tell it has been tuned or modified? From my understanding, if it is modified it is no longer considered CARB legal.
Also, is the box labeled for a 350z? I think I saw one that said "G35." So that would mean that if it doesn't say 350Z than it wouldn't pass smog or a smog reff?
#1720
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As far as The SS Box, there is no way that CARB could tell if the Maps or settings were changed. First you would need the Software to access it anyway and every Map is different depending on year and model.
quick question for the Cali guys.
Im in Cali and need to be able to pass smog. Those that run the ss box, is there anyway to tell it has been tuned or modified? From my understanding, if it is modified it is no longer considered CARB legal.
Also, is the box labeled for a 350z? I think I saw one that said "G35." So that would mean that if it doesn't say 350Z than it wouldn't pass smog or a smog reff?
Im in Cali and need to be able to pass smog. Those that run the ss box, is there anyway to tell it has been tuned or modified? From my understanding, if it is modified it is no longer considered CARB legal.
Also, is the box labeled for a 350z? I think I saw one that said "G35." So that would mean that if it doesn't say 350Z than it wouldn't pass smog or a smog reff?