linx77

Yes, that's what it was...they use the universal kit. I rather buy the bolt on kit and do it myself as I've done plenty of turbo installs before and shouldn't have a problem. I am a DIY kind of guy except for tuning lol

CIN's price is reasonable, but out of my price range.

As simple as this turbo kit is $6k is pretty pricey. I may try and source it from eBay if I need to.

I dont always believe "you get what you pay for" as i proved that statement wrong with my STi. I do understand what you mean in regards to The $4,995 deal.

CMyTailsBlink

iTrader: (4)

I would go with CIN Motorsports. Bobby did an awesome job one my first build, there was a reason I took the car back to him when i was ready to upgrade my build. I'm pretty sure his cost for the build is the best price you will find with the STS kit. He has a very good relationship with Rick Squire, so he can also customize a kit for you and work a price with Rick. Also, his price is for a full kit, I would be careful getting just a tuner kit. With out fuel or engine management, your probably not going to make good power. Just my 2 cents.

All you other STS fans that i've talked to since my last build, the wait is almost over. All the parts are in and the install work and fab is going on now. The car will be on the road soon, and should be at some meets and shows once completed. Can anyone say Z days!!

athenG

iTrader: (2)

/\ Cant wait to see the new #... I'm assuming it has to break the 600whp since you already had that before.

linx77,
I'm probably the longest STS guy here on stock block and also with the stock STS kit. The kit has been freaking reliable for me and I drive my car in the Winter because this is my only car. I only drive on the weekend though because I work in the City. Having said that, $6000 for this kit is a bit of an over price!! There are other option at that price so think hard before you buy this at that price.

linx77

Thank you, I was sold on this kit after reading how reliable it is for the stock block. Where did you source your kit from and how much? Di your kit come complete with fuel and engine management? eBay has them for a few different prices but 4600 doesn't come with the UTEC and the 5300 comes with the UTEC.

My car is currently a weekend car because I drive a company vehicle 6 days a week. I would be happy with 350whp which seems very attainable with this kit. Plus the simple install of this kit is what I like.

Do you have any issues driving in the rain?

athenG

iTrader: (2)

I was one of the first 5 tester of the kit so I got a great deal. Hmmm, you can get a used Utec cheap out here so maybe you can just grab the $4600 and maybe get a used Utec. Who's selling the kit in Ebay. I can tell you that STS is notorious on sending missing parts but they usually send the missing part pretty quick once you tell them what is missing, just make sure that the seller is reliable. Does it come with injectors and what size? At $5300 is not a bad price but that should be complete with injectors/EMS.

The car has been reliable with the rain. I have driven my car on the hardest rain you can think of. Lately my MAF has been picking up moisture when I do a long driving on a hard rainy day but it is usually the day after and only if it was really pouring hard on the freeway. I never had this problem though, but then again, I don’t like driving my car on the rain because it is a pain to clean my wheels. The MAF usually dry by itself after a few minutes of driving.

linx77

I'm not sure if the kit comes with fuel components, I will definitely have to double check that. I hope for the price the kit comes with all the necessary components...that's one thing I'm picky about.

CIN was mentioning that it's better to use the kit with the air filter connected directly to the turbo and eliminating the "U" pipe. Therefore after driving in the rain there is no moisture build up in the "U" pipe causing maf issues.

I'm definitely liking this kit, but have to think if it's worth the price. CIN does provide 3 different maps with their price which is a benifit, but I would get it tuned regardless.

Has anyone here used COBB to tune their STS? Coming from Subaru, COBB is very productive in making tuning simple...wondering how it works with Nissan.

athenG

iTrader: (2)

I didnt know about the U pipe issue and that is good to know. I was thinking of removing the U-pipe so I can eliminate the bend on one of the charge pipe anyways. If you know how to tune the COBB then you can definitely tune Utec. Utec is very easy and the only problem is it is a little primitive. You need to use HyperTerminal to tune it and there is no GUI interface. If you have a good solid base map then fine tuning it is very easy. I go to Westchester every now and then, I can always show you how to tune the Utec. If you plan to stay on stock block then I strongly suggest to stick with Utec because it has some neat safety feature that can save your motor. 2 of them are knock control and fuel cutoff overboost protection. Reflash like Cobb and Osiris will give you better drivability but wont offer any protection so it is your call. If you have a trusted tuner then stick on what knows best.

linx77

I've used and have always used EFI Logics for tuning my Subaru. I hope to use him for my Z as well a I prefer to not leave my motor to chance.

The COBB AP has always had safety features such as fuel cut and knock correction in the Subaru world, I would assume they would on Nissan as well. I know my tuner prefers COBB so I will discuss with him my options. When you say better drivability, what does your car drive like with the UTEC? Rough idle, rough shifting, rich spikes?

I just got off the phone with STS and they offer the tuner kit for $4995 but with the price of injectors, FP, and EM(cobb) it comes out to more than the $5995 price complete. I may just save for the complete kit with UTEC. If that's the case, I may go that route and try and tweak the maps myself.

athenG

iTrader: (2)

It dont matter if it's Osiris and Cobb because those safety feature does not exist on our car. You have to remember, our ECU was programmed not to handle boost. Stock (350z/G35)ECU stop monitory knock after 5000rpm. Stock ECU wont cut fuel when you overboost because it wasn’t meant to handle boost to begin with. Under NO boost the ECU has full control with Utec so drivability is going to be just like stock, idle is going to be like stock.


The problem is when you go in and out of boost around the switch over area. It is the transition from Utec back to the ECU or vice versa that will cause the car to jerk "sometimes". I usually notice this if you let go of the gas just after the Utec took over and at part throttle (its random for me and it's seldom). For example, my Utec is set to take over at 0psi, if I'm part throttle and I hit 0psi then let go of the gas at that point then I feel a little jerk because there is a difference between the Utec timing and the stock ecu timing. Other that everything seem to be fine. WOT pull is seemless too. As I said, a minor drivability is something I can deal with as long as I can protect my motor. What is the point of an EMS if it cant protect you? just my .02

linx77

Ok now It makes more sense. That small drivability issue doesn't seem like much at all. I will need to save for the complete kit unless I can find a good deal.

So you tune your own car? Is it difficult because I would never have attempted to tune my old Subaru. I don't think I know enough to do so.

athenG

iTrader: (2)

I do my own tuning right now. The key is having a good base map to start with. If you plan on doing your own tuning then I strongly suggest to get the turboxs tuner. This will work great with Utec so you can make adjustment to your Air/Fuel. If you already have a Wideband like the Innovate then you can use that as a substitute for the turboxs tuner, then you can buy the UTI software so you can combine the Innovate and utec data.

linx77

I'm leaning towards the Turbonetics kit because of the price after some more searching. It seems to offer the same if not more power for less $$. It is also another kit made to work with both the stock manifolds and stock exhaust.

It seems more in my budget.

Are those with the STS still using the OEM clutch?

rawley_12003

iTrader: (1)

if you go turbonetics well they have discontinued that kit its way cheaper but i would go with sts i wanted the turbonetics as well but i haven't heard anything bad about sts kits great for stock internals and maybe require a upgraded clutch but nothing heavy duty if you are going to push right under 400 which the sts way capable of i haven't bought my kit yet know its going to be pretty expensive. right now i just installed the nismo lsd on my base z and and some coilovers. so i'm waiting on my boost gauge and innovate a/f gauge and fuel pressure gauge. i should have the sts kit installed by the end of the summer before i deploy.

rawley_12003

iTrader: (1)

the reason the turbonetics kit is still for sale is because dealers have some in stock still. and are trying to get rid of them. trust me i was looking into the turbonetics kit

1GR8350Z

iTrader: (1)

Go with the STS. Mine has been a reliable DD for a year and a half now. With your goals this kit will be plenty good for you. The only problems that I have had is like athenG said when in heavy rain sometimes the MAF gets moisture in it, but it drys up quick and also the little hesitation that he mentioned caused by the UTEC switching over. BTW, thanks for explaining that because it makes sense to me now.

I'm not using OEM clutch

linx77

Ok, now I see why they're cheaper. A vendor is letting then go for a low as 4700 complete. Any reason why they discontinued their kit?

The STS definitely caught my eye, it's just $6k is out of my price range at the moment. I guess I'll overlook everything and make sure I know what I want. I would want to run either kit on my stock block and clutch because I dot plan on going crazier than 7-8psi 360whp.

WASHWIZ

Almost 7K on my kit w/ the stock clutch.

athenG

iTrader: (2)

If you can add a little bit more $$$ then strongly suggest go with a powerlab. Dont bother with the TN because it is discounted and not to mention it doesn't come with an EMS. All you get is a reflash and a smaller injector. TN pipings tend to crack or break and I guess TN got sick and tired of all the warranty replacement so they are loosing more money on that. By the way my OEM clutch lasted only 2K miles and at that time it only had 15k miles. It really depend how you drive but trust me if you like to drag then say bye bye to OEM very quick...

linx77

Thanks for all the info everyone, glad to be able to get some feedback rather than silly remarks.

I guess I will rule TN out after reading on a lot of issues. I'll do my best to try establish the funds needed for the STS kit. I don't need to worry about m clutch I guess as I don't drag the car.

Anyone have any recent pics of how their kit looks under the car and from behind?

athenG

iTrader: (2)

I cant believe we dont have a pix on the first page There is a lot of Video on page 3 though...


Here.. These was the first prototype of the modified piping that MRC did on my car. I'm not sure if STS made any modification...

http://g35driver.com/forums/2178228-post2.html
http://g35driver.com/forums/2178235-post3.html