Official STS Rear Mount Turbo Discussion Thread
02-09-2008, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Ahsmo
Does anyone know the specs on the "upgraded" intercooler STS is selling?
Rick wasn't able to tell me the exact spec but he said it is double the flow from the Stock FMIC. Length should also be the same to make it easy to upgrade but I think they made the IC thicker.
02-25-2008, 03:54 PM
#1125
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Hola all, I just spent a couple of hours reading 57 pages to get to this point.
I'm currently building a NA motor, 11.5:1 and big 280 cams. I was kind of thinking about adding something like this later if that didn't get my rocks off. I was thinking about running high compression, low boost. A real simple setup because I was thinking with such low boost I wouldn’t have spool issues and might not even have to run an intercooler. I've already got a UTEC too. I'm more into open track and road racing. Lag doesn't concern me, because with the low boost and always being able to keep it above 4k rpm. What concerns me is weight. How much do the components weigh?
Turbo: ? lbs
Piping: ? lbs
Oil Lines: ? lbs
Would it be possible to spin a hairdryer well within it efficiency range and not require an intercooler? I mean with all of the piping acting as a heat exchanger and since I would be primarily moving at a high rate of speed, would it not be possible?
To me it seems obvious that the rear of the car is the best place to add weight if you have to add weight. Just a thought.
I'm currently building a NA motor, 11.5:1 and big 280 cams. I was kind of thinking about adding something like this later if that didn't get my rocks off. I was thinking about running high compression, low boost. A real simple setup because I was thinking with such low boost I wouldn’t have spool issues and might not even have to run an intercooler. I've already got a UTEC too. I'm more into open track and road racing. Lag doesn't concern me, because with the low boost and always being able to keep it above 4k rpm. What concerns me is weight. How much do the components weigh?
Turbo: ? lbs
Piping: ? lbs
Oil Lines: ? lbs
Would it be possible to spin a hairdryer well within it efficiency range and not require an intercooler? I mean with all of the piping acting as a heat exchanger and since I would be primarily moving at a high rate of speed, would it not be possible?
To me it seems obvious that the rear of the car is the best place to add weight if you have to add weight. Just a thought.
02-25-2008, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Lightning Guy
Hola all, I just spent a couple of hours reading 57 pages to get to this point.
I'm currently building a NA motor, 11.5:1 and big 280 cams. I was kind of thinking about adding something like this later if that didn't get my rocks off. I was thinking about running high compression, low boost. A real simple setup because I was thinking with such low boost I wouldn’t have spool issues and might not even have to run an intercooler. I've already got a UTEC too. I'm more into open track and road racing. Lag doesn't concern me, because with the low boost and always being able to keep it above 4k rpm. What concerns me is weight. How much do the components weigh?
Turbo: ? lbs
Piping: ? lbs
Oil Lines: ? lbs
Would it be possible to spin a hairdryer well within it efficiency range and not require an intercooler? I mean with all of the piping acting as a heat exchanger and since I would be primarily moving at a high rate of speed, would it not be possible?
To me it seems obvious that the rear of the car is the best place to add weight if you have to add weight. Just a thought.
I'm currently building a NA motor, 11.5:1 and big 280 cams. I was kind of thinking about adding something like this later if that didn't get my rocks off. I was thinking about running high compression, low boost. A real simple setup because I was thinking with such low boost I wouldn’t have spool issues and might not even have to run an intercooler. I've already got a UTEC too. I'm more into open track and road racing. Lag doesn't concern me, because with the low boost and always being able to keep it above 4k rpm. What concerns me is weight. How much do the components weigh?
Turbo: ? lbs
Piping: ? lbs
Oil Lines: ? lbs
Would it be possible to spin a hairdryer well within it efficiency range and not require an intercooler? I mean with all of the piping acting as a heat exchanger and since I would be primarily moving at a high rate of speed, would it not be possible?
To me it seems obvious that the rear of the car is the best place to add weight if you have to add weight. Just a thought.
Since you'll be running low boost (not much of a choice anyways), you should be able to get by without an IC. I'm sure a shop will chime but I wouldn't think you'd be able to run over 6psi.
02-25-2008, 04:05 PM
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I've been meaning to resurrect this thread to ask about the Air Filter. You can get away without an FMIC for around 4-5psi max. There are a lot of STS Turbo there without the FMIC but they run on very low boost. At 4.5 psi then you'll be barely around 300whp (I made around 305whp at 4.5psi). You can use a Water/Meth kit though to help bring down the IAT if you want so you can a few more psi
Edit: Damn, you actually read every pages of this thread
Now for the other STS owner. Has anyone replaced their Air Filter? I want to have a spare just in case the filter is so dirty and beyond cleaning. I have about 9k-10K miles and I haven't cleaned my Air Filter
(never drove when it's raining though)
Edit: Damn, you actually read every pages of this thread
Now for the other STS owner. Has anyone replaced their Air Filter? I want to have a spare just in case the filter is so dirty and beyond cleaning. I have about 9k-10K miles and I haven't cleaned my Air Filter
(never drove when it's raining though)
02-25-2008, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by athenG
snip At 4.5 psi then you'll be barely around 300whp (I made around 305whp at 4.5psi). snip
02-25-2008, 06:11 PM
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Well, the Greddy kits come without a FMIC, and if I am not mistaken, the PE kits do not as well, so you should be fine at low boost levels. I was considering going this route in the beginning too...
02-26-2008, 07:41 AM
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I was wondering about the air filter myself. I thought about even trying to put a pop charger up there LOL. I haven't cleaned mine in like 12k miles but the car was just at CIN so you know they hooked it up.
Lightening Guy, Once you have test pipes which I'm sure you'll have with your plans for a built N/A motor lag isn't that bad at all with these kits. And if your putting down anything close to 300 to the wheels N/A you're spool will be better than any of us have anyway.
Lightening Guy, Once you have test pipes which I'm sure you'll have with your plans for a built N/A motor lag isn't that bad at all with these kits. And if your putting down anything close to 300 to the wheels N/A you're spool will be better than any of us have anyway.
02-26-2008, 08:54 AM
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Yeah, I've pretty much got all of the NA bolt ons, and currently tearing down a stock long block to build this summer/fall.
My current setup is:
Xerd Headers
Nismo Y Pipe
Custon 3" single exit exhaust
Crawford PLenum
JWT pop charger
Some mild plenum, manifold, and head grinding
Also for quick twisting I have
A lightened JWT Flywheel
Clutch MAster FCX100
KJR Crank pulley
UR other pullies
And all of the weight I can stand to shed out of the car.
I'm really thinking that 11.5:1 with Tomei 280s and a decent tune should get me close to 325 whp. Add a couple PSI on top of that when I get bored should get close to 350 to 370 whp with out the tragic terminal oversteer that you get with hairdryers when the spool up. Ideally I have it spool around 3k and keep it spooled until 8k. But that is a year or so away, I poked my head to check on the wieght of the components.
WHat exactly is the 'base' kit? I already have a set of 440 injectors and a Utec. All I would need would be the piping and perhaps a snail, and for sure the the oil pump.
My current setup is:
Xerd Headers
Nismo Y Pipe
Custon 3" single exit exhaust
Crawford PLenum
JWT pop charger
Some mild plenum, manifold, and head grinding
Also for quick twisting I have
A lightened JWT Flywheel
Clutch MAster FCX100
KJR Crank pulley
UR other pullies
And all of the weight I can stand to shed out of the car.
I'm really thinking that 11.5:1 with Tomei 280s and a decent tune should get me close to 325 whp. Add a couple PSI on top of that when I get bored should get close to 350 to 370 whp with out the tragic terminal oversteer that you get with hairdryers when the spool up. Ideally I have it spool around 3k and keep it spooled until 8k. But that is a year or so away, I poked my head to check on the wieght of the components.
WHat exactly is the 'base' kit? I already have a set of 440 injectors and a Utec. All I would need would be the piping and perhaps a snail, and for sure the the oil pump.
02-26-2008, 02:22 PM
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Keep us updated.
I just purchased a Y-pipe to go along with my HFC. I plan on wrapping the whole thing (from cats to mid-pipe) with heat wrap. After that off to FuctionedTuned for a dyno/tune.
Right now I still have my stock front bumper. I may wait unlit I get a different one before I go on the dyno. I like the Kuruma Z front but it is almost $800 w/ shipping. Anyone know of a place that has them cheaper?
I just purchased a Y-pipe to go along with my HFC. I plan on wrapping the whole thing (from cats to mid-pipe) with heat wrap. After that off to FuctionedTuned for a dyno/tune.
Right now I still have my stock front bumper. I may wait unlit I get a different one before I go on the dyno. I like the Kuruma Z front but it is almost $800 w/ shipping. Anyone know of a place that has them cheaper?
02-26-2008, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by WASHWIZ
Keep us updated.
I just purchased a Y-pipe to go along with my HFC. I plan on wrapping the whole thing (from cats to mid-pipe) with heat wrap. After that off to FuctionedTuned for a dyno/tune.
Right now I still have my stock front bumper. I may wait unlit I get a different one before I go on the dyno. I like the Kuruma Z front but it is almost $800 w/ shipping. Anyone know of a place that has them cheaper?
I just purchased a Y-pipe to go along with my HFC. I plan on wrapping the whole thing (from cats to mid-pipe) with heat wrap. After that off to FuctionedTuned for a dyno/tune.
Right now I still have my stock front bumper. I may wait unlit I get a different one before I go on the dyno. I like the Kuruma Z front but it is almost $800 w/ shipping. Anyone know of a place that has them cheaper?
You can buy a used damage Authentic bumper (they are usually Fiber Glass) and have it fixed. I got mine for only $200 (Authentic TopSecret) and it cost me $400 to have it fix and repainted, total $600. You can also do what KPierson did and just have a shop modify your OEM Bumper and that will cost you around $400-$700 to be modded and painted.
02-26-2008, 03:35 PM
#1136
I'm wondering if there's space to tuck the filter up behind the bumper somewhere?
Originally Posted by athenG
I've been meaning to resurrect this thread to ask about the Air Filter. You can get away without an FMIC for around 4-5psi max. There are a lot of STS Turbo there without the FMIC but they run on very low boost. At 4.5 psi then you'll be barely around 300whp (I made around 305whp at 4.5psi). You can use a Water/Meth kit though to help bring down the IAT if you want so you can a few more psi
Edit: Damn, you actually read every pages of this thread
Now for the other STS owner. Has anyone replaced their Air Filter? I want to have a spare just in case the filter is so dirty and beyond cleaning. I have about 9k-10K miles and I haven't cleaned my Air Filter (never drove when it's raining though)
Edit: Damn, you actually read every pages of this thread
Now for the other STS owner. Has anyone replaced their Air Filter? I want to have a spare just in case the filter is so dirty and beyond cleaning. I have about 9k-10K miles and I haven't cleaned my Air Filter
(never drove when it's raining though)
02-26-2008, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
I'm wondering if there's space to tuck the filter up behind the bumper somewhere?
Its already way up out of the way. You have much bigger problems if the filter is too low.
02-26-2008, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
I'm wondering if there's space to tuck the filter up behind the bumper somewhere?
Do you mean the rear bumper? why go through that hassle coz it's already been proven that even the heaviest rain is a non factor. Trust me I have driven my car on a Heavy Rain the first time I picked up my car from MRC and my car made it. I haven't checked my Air Filter but my car still has the same pull and I haven't clean my filter for 9K miles. I think you are concern about it getting dirty but the filter is well coved.
Last edited by athenG; 02-26-2008 at 03:47 PM.
02-27-2008, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by athenG
You can buy a used damage Authentic bumper (they are usually Fiber Glass) and have it fixed. I got mine for only $200 (Authentic TopSecret) and it cost me $400 to have it fix and repainted, total $600. You can also do what KPierson did and just have a shop modify your OEM Bumper and that will cost you around $400-$700 to be modded and painted.
02-27-2008, 08:10 AM
#1140
Yes, I was thinking about having it in a cleaner inviroment. I remember I tucked my custom maxima CAI filter in a space right behind the front bumper cover. It stayed much cleaner than the other CAI filters that were mounted behind the wheel well.
Originally Posted by athenG
Do you mean the rear bumper? why go through that hassle coz it's already been proven that even the heaviest rain is a non factor. Trust me I have driven my car on a Heavy Rain the first time I picked up my car from MRC and my car made it. I haven't checked my Air Filter but my car still has the same pull and I haven't clean my filter for 9K miles. I think you are concern about it getting dirty but the filter is well coved.