Maybe he'll chime in here but Jeremy Tibbs raised my idle with just the utec and I'm pretty sure he didn't have the capability of doing ecu reflashes.

 

i read on an evo site its the 0% column fuel and timing

 

Thanks for your explanation. I forgot that I posted here hence I just replied now

 

well fixed the problem in the 0% column 500, 750,1000rpm was -11 for fuel so i looked at a map someone on here sent me and theres was -4.5 so i just i changed those 3 with -4.5 and the car doesnt drop and stumble anymore. my laptop died so ill be messing with it a little more later and im going to raise my idle with using timing and ill post up my map for others having trouble with the same thing for 04.5

 

I've never heard of being able to raise the idle by changing the timing. I'm curious to see if it works at all.

 

by adding timing it will raise it but utec is soo boo boo the pid control of whatever its called might try and compensate for the increased timing which im hoping it wont.... if all else fails drilling that *****!

 

IMHO... Raising timing to bump Idle would not be the way to go about it..
JT probly used a consult to bump the idle. Hopefully he will chime in

 

you cant use that on the 04.5 i was told... so its either drill hole or timing

 

im impatient and said **** it drilled it a little smaller then 1/8" because my 1/8 was nowhere to be found the idle raised in the high 7s almost 800s ill do a log later and see exactly but more then likely im going a little bigger tomorrow to get in the mid to high800s

 

alright so new problem.... the car idles pretty good the afs are way more stable and it doesnt die on decel but now after drilling the tb plate the 0% column between 1500-3500rpms leans out so bad sometimes getting the --- on the wideband... any pointers? i went from everywhere between putting in -16 to +8 and it didnt change a thing

 

maybe you should just get a professional to tune your car

 

i did and it sucked... ive been around tuning i had a heavily modded sti... just never used utec but the problems was really simple... my tuner changed my map to 1 when i had it set on two and i didnt realize until i went to dashboard... after i found out it took 3 seconds to fix

the guy who tuned my car has the timing set to 7* at 100% throttle idk but that seams really low for a stock block

 

Well boys......I blew up my motor at Thunderhill on friday. It's shame too...I just put in all new hard rubber NISMO bushings and the car was handling perfect. Anyway...15 mins into my run I was running flat out through turns 6-7-8 and the car had a power drop (noticable) so I got out of the throttle a bit and BAM (felt like something snapped) and lost all power and engine went dead. Coasted a hundred yards and got off the race line. When I turn the key it won't even turn over just a click from the starter. 2 thoughts 1. broken piston as there are no holes with rods shot out the block. 2 might have broke a timming chaing or timming pulley that is now all wadded up in the front case not letting the engine turn over. Car never got hot....no boost spike....AF ratio was good under full boost....no smoke........
I'll get it torn down next week and keep you guys updated. In the meantime. This is my chance to build a forged low compression motor and run 10 to 12 psi. This is going to cost me so for now I want to focus on the standard STS injectors and turbo set up. When does the base kit max out??? I thought I rembered reading 10-12 psi with high 400's RWHP. Any input would be great. Thanks to the STS crew- Jim

 

im running 10psi and im a little rich so i think more like 12 psi but you can always add meth for you though youd need a pretty good size tank since youre always in wot

 

How many track miles and street miles did you get out of your car before it blew? That reduction in power was probably knock. When the engine knocks, the UTEC pulls a ton of timing and it feels like the car falls on its face. Sorry for your loss.

 

car has 73,000 miles....10000 FI and alot of track days. I have bitched forever about the car "falling on its face" as it felt like pulled timming but was always told in was the stock ECU trying to take over blah blah blah don't worry......It wasn't consistent and rare for autoX and street but on a WOT track day in gears 3-4-5 it always took off like hell...dropped for a second (hesitation) then shot off again. Prob could have been tuned better I presume . Anyway, THe tech2motorsports guys are local for me so I am tossing around a 2JZ swap idea as it may be cheaper-more reliable-stronger-with bigger RWHP than building a forged Z block. For now I just have to investigate and save some $$$$$

BTW- If I go 2JZ, what is a fair price for my STS kit complete. Kit has 5k miles +or- on it. Selling my turbo, 6 speed tranny, etc will help pay for my repairs. Input is appreciated- Jim

 

haha 2j is far from cheap if you want to make good power have fun buying a tranny the r154 tranny is good for about 500 safe from what i hear and for an mk4 6speed thats well over 3k if you can find one

 

I can build the 2J set up for about 7K....subtract what I can get for my turbo, tranny, NISMO wheels, etc and I'm into it for 4K +/-. I would use the 5 speed as they are way cheaper than the 6. Another option is the Hinson supercar LS2 set up. My buddy I race with is a race car fabricator and he has a Z06 motor with a T56 built and ready if I want it. It may cost me about 5 to 6K out of pocket but would be a really cool/trick set up. I now leaning to the Hinson set up as it will be CARB legal with and 03 or newer motor and vin# from the Vette it came from. Last option is forged bottom end on my Z block but I'm not real wild about it. This is a track car first and fun driver second......FI has been a real bugger for the track as it is too much to monitor and keep tuned for long duration WOT situations. Again, the Z06 swap is looking good. What ever I do, I will start a full pic and build thread to keep the interested informed.

I still need advice on the $$$$ amount I should ask for a compete STS set upwill include full exhaust with XYZ pipe, HFC's, gauges with pillar (boost, EGT, Wide band), custom piping for clearence....... Let me know out there.-Jim

 

Check on the thread in the NA build's on that fellow's experience with Hinson. Cliff notes, don't try a DIY, but it sounds like you know someone who would do the swap anyway.

I would say 5-6k for the whole set-up.

 

Yep....5k for the Hinson stuff plus motor and trans.

How much should I ask for my STS?