I checked the oil level it was topped off a day ago, the car drives perfectly fine no issues in driving but after a few runs it does that with the oil pressure gauge. Where is the sensor located and can I check something like this my self?

 

Can you take pix on how the oil return line was routed?

 

I believe it is the device that the oil supply line is tee-ed into near the oil filter. Was it doing the oil pressure gauge dance before you checked the oil?

I asked because that sounds like the pump is being air bound or the sensor is messing up. What did the CEL code say? If you haven't already, I would invest in a code reader. They are cheap and these cars throw misfire codes all the time.

 

Good news guys, the car is running perfect except needs to be tuned (too rich right now). The service engine soon light disappeared on its on randomly while driving. Iam boosting at 8psi max setting for now, and I dont think I will increase it more then that to be on the safe side. Loving the car, just need to get a new BOV. Maybe HKS? Any thoughts...

 

so went to go get tuned today and did a boost leak test and well lol not getting tuned today

plenum leaking
tial bov leaking
compressor housing leaking

 

What WB do you have? Check if it is supported by UTI (http://jeffsoftware.com/) and get a copy of it. Do some logging and make sure include the Air Intake Temp temp on your logs. IF your tune is spot-on but only run rich across the board, you can always make adjustment on the temp compensation table. You can add or subtract in small increment and that will help you lean out your A/F. You need to log the Air Intake Temp so you know witch area you need to make adjustment. Make sure use 3rd gear or higher when you do your WOT pull.. 4th-5th gear is better but it is hard to find an area where you can run 120+mph. If your A/F is all over the place then you will need a full tune.

 

Thanks again AthenG, ill do some research in to it...I have the AEM wideband.

 

What BOV are you guys running....mine came with an sts one and iam gona change it. When you guys rev do you build any boost in neutral or do you have to be driving before the BOV opens and closes?

 

CF rear diffuser update with the STS .....I never got a chance to heat shield for the TS CF rear diffuser but the good news is that it holds up just fine. I spent a day at Thunderhill with some hard full throttle laps and everything looks good out back. I'm a driving coach for the track so my personal car time was 1/2 of usual......a turbo blanket, heat shield, etc....may be in order for a full day of running hard. Just my .02 update.

 

nice ^

 

how many of you have got a boost leak test since youve put the kit on?
going out on a limb and going to say maybe 2 or 3?

well all of you should get it done im sure some of you are like pssh my cars building and holding boost fine... well doesnt mean you dont have a leak my compressor housing on the turbo was leaking also but its all fixed now all im waiting on is a gasket for the plenum


for real boost leak test people

 

/\ lol I'm building boost fine so not sure if there is any difference beside more $ out of my pocket... Lol


Update:
I raised my idle to 950rpm and still have the same problem. it only happen when the car is fully warm. I notice there was a hissing sound coming from my catch can. I removed my catch can and BINGO!!!! Idle is steady at 950rpm!!! No more bogging down and no more lean surge on my AF!!

 

duh thats called a boost leak thats why your idle jumps and i bet you have more

you will build boost "fine" with a leak unless its huge but your car isnt going to perform how it should with one... it cost like $40 to have it done or you can build a kit but since its a rear mount having it on a lift helps a lot to find them

 

It wasn't that simple..It was a vacuum leak and not boost leak. My first instinct was vavuum leak causing the lean surge. My idle was steady even before and I tried to spray a carb cleaner on every part of the plenum, joint hoses, and even my catch can.I also check all hoses to make sure there was no crack. I guess the leak got worst now that it finally showed itself. Car is fine on the first half hour of driving. Something about extreem heat that cause my catch can to leak.

 

yea but since youre boosted those leaks turn into boost leaks when youre WOT...

build a tester put like 10psi in the system and spray it with soapy water on every line and coupler gasket etc makes things a lot easier

 

Ordered the invidia TP's...came to 300 Canadian dollars
I hope there worth it...I will post a before and after dyno. The car is also getting tuned next week.

 

AthenG - I'm glad to hear that you figured it out! I might consider bypassing my catch can to see if it's something that simple.

I'm currently working on my exhaust setup. I bought googegoose's Kinetix resonated test pipes (fresh from JetHot) and a Magnaflow resonator. I just got done mocking the exhaust up on the car and I'm going to take it to a friend to have him weld up. I must say - it's a VERY tight fit. It's a total gamble not having it welded up while it's on the car. It also sits at somewhat of a weird angle, and also has the possibility of getting f'ed up if I run over something (hangs a little low). We'll see how it turns out though.

Also, I was finally going to have the STS exhaust tips welded on. However, the larger diameter one isn't sliding over the pipe coming off of the turbo. I'm going to have to grind the inside down a tad to get it to fit. So for now I'll go without the tips, and continue to drive around with the very odd looking exhaust

 

Oh, I also went to the hardware store to get some fender washers to act as spacers in my BOV. There were some stainless ones that fit perfect, so I'm going to run the -9 psi spring with a single washer. Hopefully that will allow it to remain closed at idle, but still eliminate some of the compressor surge.

 

I found that using bondo to mock up exhaust pipes for later welding works really well. Hardens up and if you break it, just fit the pieces back together and let the welder do the rest.

 

Has anyone ever have a problem with the fuel injectors that came with the kit? I have the old Deatschwerks 440cc. Just had them tested and cleaned. On the test report, it states "a few of the injectors leaked and were stuck open on arrival. Poor modification job done. There could be a small burr caught between the diffuser and pintle that can't be removed, this is caused by poor hole enlarging tools/method." The flow rate at 43.5 psi was 404, 404, 400, 390, 394, 396. The before injector balance was 6.3%, the after was 4.7%. Is this acceptable? I spoke with the guy who cleaned the injectors and he said they should be ok but I may get more misfires since the balance is a bit high. The previous owner who has these injectors had no problems with them and they only have around 5k miles on them... but are they safe to run? Are all deatshwerks injectors factory injectors that have been drilled out and modded?